Today, Celebrate the Lagerbier: National Lager Day

Happy #NationalLagerDay!

*This is an updated/modified essay previously posted here on 2021-12-10*

The world knows the word Lager and here in the US, we seem to think of Lager as the straw-colored, mass-market beer. Nothing inherently wrong with those Lagerbier styles, by the way. The difference between Ale and Lager is not as much as one would think, but the only physical difference is the yeast. The history of Lager is complex, and yeast has the most important role in it. While the place where Lagerbier originated may be surprising to some and obvious to others, I’m sure there are some surprising yeasty facts below for either camp. I’ll make this as brief as possible.

Grab a Lagerbier and let’s go back in time.

A good starting point is the enactment of the Reinheitsgebot. On April 23rd, 1516, Duke of Bavaria, Wilheim IV, a member of the royal Wittelsbach family, decreed what will eventually be the longest still-standing brewing standard we now refer to as the German Purity Law. Although beer was not the focus of the decree (more about it here), it can be argued that it did lay the foundation for Lagerbier with the restriction of ingredients. As we all know, the original proclamation specifically calls out for water, hops, and malt to be used in Bavarian beer. No yeast was mentioned, but this was fantastic news for our hungry little fungi friends. More on that later.

Mother Nature assisted in Lageriber’s firm grip in Bavaria before the next proclamation. Climatologists agree that a “Little Ice Age” began no later than 1550 and dropped the average temperatures by a degree or so. It may sound insignificant, but it was enough to be noticed all over Europe until temperatures stabilized around 1850.

In 1553, Wilheim’s successor and son, Duke Albrecht V, outlawed brewing in the summer months due to the inconsistent beers being produced during these warmer months. The dates Albrecht chose were April 23rd, the original date of his father’s proclamation, to September 29th. They didn't understand why, yet they knew fermentation and cold storage (“Lagern,” German verb “to store”) done in the colder months of the year resulted in higher quality beers.

The Munich Dunkel Lagerbier's origin as a beer style can be traced back to these events. Malts were darker in color, the water chemistry high bicarbonates (alkalinity) to aid in dark beer production, and proclamations to keep beers cold for an extended period. Munich Dunkel has been cited many times as not only the first beer style to be designated, but as the first Lageriber to be named as such. Lager yeast helped in many ways here. Cold storage for ideal fermentation temperatures, little to no fermentation characters, and extended lagering to promote clarity and round flavors.

Ale yeast (Saccharomyces Cerevisiae or S. cerevisiae) is usually slated to ferment at higher temperatures (65°F to 70°F, on average with some strains reaching even higher) and thus results and a vigorous, relatively quick fermentation and development of a large cap of kräusen. Usually accompanied by many fruity esters and spicy phenols. Lager yeast (Saccharomyces pastorianus or S. pastorianus) typically ferment at cooler temperatures (48°F to 58°F, on average). Because of this cooler temperature, fermentation is less violent, takes much longer, and there is less kräusen. Mostly a clean (little to no fruit or spice flavors) fermentation.

Note: Kräusen is the fluffy stuff that develops at the top of the fermenter that is made up of yeast and proteins and other materials frothed up because of yeast metabolism.

In 1996, the genome sequence of an S. cerevisiae strain was DNA-sequenced. A bit over a decade later, in 2009, the genome for Weihenstephan 34/70 S. pastorianus strain was sequenced. The data showed the chromosome mapping of S. pastorianus is about half identical to S. cerevisiae. Furthermore, the DNA also showed that the unidentified half of S. pastorianus is what gives it low-temperature fermentation capabilities.

After identifying S. cerevisiae as a hybridization parent of S. pastorianus, it was thought that the likely candidates were S. uvarum or S. bayanus might fit the bill. It turns out S. uvarum is a pure landrace to the region that is not hybridized and S. bayanus is hybridized from S. cerevisiae, S. uvarum, and another strain. We know S. bayanus by its more common name, Champagne yeast. After evaluating over 1,000 other European strains, it was later determined that S. pastorianus’ parent is not from Europe!

In 2011, microbiologists took their search for the origin of S. pastorianus to Patagonia, between Chile and Argentina in the high Andes. It’s cold there and that’s important. Many yeasts were collected and studied from there. One was found to be unidentified and was sent to Colorado for sequencing while the team on-site determined this strain was a pure landrace.

Then, it happened…. When the DNA was sequenced in Colorado, the yeast’s genome was found to be over 99% the same as the non-S. cerevisiae portion of the S. pastorianus segment.

In the words of Murry…. “You ARE the father!” And it was a busy father, indeed. S. eubayanus, as it would be named, was also the missing sequence for S. bayanus. It is still not understood how S. eubayanus got from South America to Europe, although there are many fun ideas such as on a bird. There is ongoing research, including the discovery of S. eubayanus elsewhere in South America, North America, China, Tibet, New Zealand, and a recent find of it in Ireland. There is at least a more solid understanding of the genetics that helped us identify the full origin of the yeast that made Lagerbier!

A toast to the reason for our little single-celled organism that makes our favorite drink. It is because of Lager yeast, along with serendipitous events and lucky molecular hybridization, that we have Lagerbier to enjoy today. I’ll see you all out there for a Lagerbier.

Prost!

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

References

(Research Publication/Journal Article)
Sean A Bergin, Stephen Allen, Conor Hession, Eoin Ó Cinnéide, Adam Ryan, Kevin P Byrne, Tadhg Ó Cróinín, Kenneth H Wolfe, Geraldine Butler (2022). Identification of European isolates of the lager yeast parent Saccharomyces eubayanus. Oxford University Press on behalf of FEMS. https://academic.oup.com/femsyr/article/22/1/foac053/6874782

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Dornbusch, H. D. (1997). Prost! The Story of German Beer. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Kraus-Weyermann, T., Dornbusch, H. D. (2018). Dark Lagers: History, Mystery, Brewing Techniques, Recipes. Master Brewers Associations of the Americas (MBAA).

Oliver, G. (2012). The Oxford Companion to Beer. Oxford University Press.

A Decade in Beer - Thank You!

(Edited/updated post from 2019 from my personal social media pages)

On this day 10 years ago, November 19th of 2012, my knowledge was tested in a subject that I hold dear to my heart. On that date, I took an exam to earn the title of Certified Cicerone®. Although my results would not be revealed for another couple of months, I knew in my heart that the prestigious accolade would be awarded.

I had no way of ever knowing how this would eventually change the course of my life…

What started as a hobby quickly turned into passion (some might say "obsession" and they wouldn’t be wrong). I'm sure most of my family members and friends brushed my enthusiasm for beer as just another one of my fads that would eventually be forgotten like so many others. Boy, were they wrong!

In early 2012, I began to research the Cicerone Certification Program just in curiosity. By June’s end, I was a Certified Beer Server (first level of the program). Immediately, I began to investigate what the second level of certification consisted of and what study materials I would need. For the next 4 months, I studied every moment I could, missing out on family events, and boring my friends with all the beer talk. Then, it happened. Registration opened for the Certified Cicerone® examination at Stone Brewing Company and World Bistro in Escondido on November 19th, 2012. Without hesitation, I registered... And the cramming got serious!

Before I knew it, exam day was only a few days away. After locking myself in my room at the Comfort Inn for two days, reading, having a beer or two (of course!), and soaking up as much last-minute data as I could, Monday morning could not come soon enough! I walked into Stone Brewing Company with so much confidence that I wanted to share some with my fellow candidates. The confidence quickly turned to nerves and self-doubt as I waited for the results. It wouldn't be until early January when I received the news I had passed.

In a year, I went from struggling homebrewer to beer nerd to Certified. I still get chills down my spine when I think about who I shared the Certified title with at the time, and this is something that will never be taken away from me. NEVER!

Fast forward to current times and I have since been able to achieve the rank of Advanced Cicerone® (the third level certification) after a few attempts. Now the chills are even more intense to think who I share that with.

I wrote for Orange Coast Magazine (thanks to Gregory Nagel for recommending me and thank you Phil Metzger and Alan Gibbons for giving me that opportunity!) and also for Beer Paper L.A. (thank you, Dan!), conduct sensory panels and lectures under my beer persona Terms of Enbeerment, am an unofficial Brand Evangelist to OC Beer, and have been accepted by most as part of the beer industry.

Not bad for a mere enthusiast a decade ago, huh? The next step would be to attempt the fourth and final level of the Program: Master Cicerone®. To this I say... Challenge accepted! But it won’t be for a while, should I ever feel ready enough.

Thank you all who have supported my journey these past 10 years, whether from the start or at any point until now, especially my family (sisters, Mom, and Pops!). A special thanks to Patricia Soriano Barkenhagen from Bootlegger's Brewery for sponsoring me 10 years ago, allowing me to even take this exam in the first place! I blame you for this… And I’ll never forget to thank you every chance I get.

Lastly, to all my friends in the beer industry that accepted me as one of your own: thank you for welcoming me into your community and for giving me a sense of belonging and an identity. You know who you are!

Cheers!

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

GABF 2022 Awards - OC Beer!

(Cover Photo by Brewers Association and Great American Beer Festival)

Awards are out!

Congrats to the OC Breweries on this 40th GABF, 36 years of competition! We took 11 medals this year, 2 more than last year.

This year’s GABF had 9,904 entries by 2,154 breweries, judged by 235 judges, aided by 300+ volunteers, over 9 days.

OC’s Barrel-aged juggernauts, Bottle Logic and The Bruery, shared the two top stops this year, reclaiming what made them a household name in the category.

California taking the cream ale and strong hazy categories in a sweep. Flashpoint and Brewery X win their first GABF medals, Docent shows their poise with coffee, Beachwood HB keeps up their streak, and Radiant keeps reminding us to not overlook the Haze.

RIIP places once again for Black the Riiper and remain OC’s IPA king by also taking hardware in the most entered category. Likewise, Bearded Tang shows they still got it by taking two medals as well.

To add more to it, OC swept the Alpha King Challenge held at Rock Bottom Brewery in Denver, CO yesterday, Oct 7th, 2022. First Place to Radiant's Dig This Crazy Scene Double IPA, Second to Santa Ana River's More Hops Than Brains Double IPA, and Third to Brewery X's Slap & Tumble Double IPA.

Here’s the complete list of OC GABF winners. Let’s hear it for OC!

#gabf2022 #enbeerment #ocbeer

Gold (3)
Coffee Stout or Porter (76 Entries): Super Tonic, Docent Brewing, San Juan Capistrano
Wood- and Barrel-Aged Strong Beer (133 Entries): Flesh to Stone, Bottle Logic Brewing, Anaheim CA
Scotch Ale (44 Entries): Full Malted Jacket, Beachwood BBQ & Brewing, Huntington Beach

Silver (5)
Wood- and Barrel-Aged Strong Beer (133 Entries): Ivoire, The Bruery, Placentia
American Cream Ale (115 Entries): Carlos Danger, Bearded Tang, Stanton
Juicy or Hazy Strong Pale Ale (153 Entries): So Into You, Radiant, Anaheim
German Wheat Ale (209 Entries): Kristal Weizen, Bearded Tang, Stanton
American-Style India Pale Ale (423 Entries): Dankster Squad, RIIP, Huntington Beach

Bronze (3)
Historical Beer (59 Entries): Churchill Browns, Flashpoint, Huntington Beach
Bohemian-Style Pilsener (186 Entries): Battlesnakes, Brewery X, Anaheim
American Black Ale or American Stout (62 Entries): Black the Riipper, RIIP, Huntington Beach

(Cover Photo by Brewers Association and Great American Beer Festival)

Full list of winners here.

Beer Clean Glass Day: Presenting Beer as Intended

It’s #BeerCleanGlass Day

Along with today being Saison Day and German Beer Day, we have one more beer-related celebration going on this year (2022) on this day, Beer Clean Glass Day!

The Cicerone® Certification Program has designated the fourth Saturday of April calling attention to what properly cleaned beer glassware looks like. The end goal is not to call out the dirty glass, but rather to educate and encourage all pubs, breweries, bars, and restaurants to take those extra little steps that could make all the difference. A Beer Clean Glass will not hinder the appearance, flavor, or aroma of the beer rather it should enhance all of them.

One could argue that clean is clean, but things aren’t always what they seem. Along with a well-maintained drought system, beer clean glassware is equally important to ensure the beer is served and consumed as the hard-working brewers intended.

Beer Clean Glass Indicators (Before Drinking)

Sheeting. Dunk the glass in water and the water will evenly sheet the interior of the glass. There should be no patterns developed by the water.

Salt Test. This one is a bit odd. Wet the inside of a glass. Then, throw salt into it. The salt should adhere to the wet glass evenly much like testing for sheeting. This is a neat trick to show a group, but you now have a dirty glass again. If the glass is dirty to begin with, the salt will not sheet evenly.

Beer Clean Glass Indicators (While Drinking)

No bubbles adhering to the glass. This is an indicator of the glass being free of soils and any oils. Co2 will be knocked out of solution if there is an impurity for the gas to latch on to. Note that etching on the bottom of the glass has the intended effect of creating a nucleation point to promote head retention and aroma release.

Head retention. If the glass is properly cleaned and there are no oils to kill the head, the cap of foam should be long-lasting and ever-present in some capacity while you drink the beer. Note: the foam may collapse to some extent regardless after you take your first sip due to the natural oils found on one’s lips.

Lacing while you drink. The rings formed by the foam as the
beer is enjoyed will adhere to the glass. If head retention is maintained as mentioned above, this marker will be visible.

Dirty Glass Indicators (Before Drinking)

No Sheeting. Dunk the glass in water and it will create patterns like a spider web, not evenly coat the glass, or bead up around any soils. This is an indicator of oil-based detergents, hard water residue, or generally dirty glass.

Visibly Dirty. Obviously. Not much else to say about this one.

Dirty Glass Indicators (While Drinking)

Bubbles will adhere to the side of the glass (see image above). The surface of glass does not promote Co2 bubbles to stick. Therefore, if you see this, it means that it may be residual sanitizer or hard water deposits at best, but it could be food, dirt, debris, fats, oils (food or soap), or a chip taken out of the glass at worst.

No head retention. This is an indicator that oil-based detergent was used. Oils will drastically dissipate any foam that may have formed under other circumstances.

Lipstick/Chapstick on Rim. This is just unsanitary. Imagine grabbing your beer, taking a sip, realizing it tastes a bit off and waxy, looking down and seeing you’ve just indirectly kissed a stranger. Mitigate this by cleaning the rim of the glass before cleaning it as one would usually.

How to Get Beer Clean Glass

First, and probably most important, is to use a cleaner that is not oil-based. Household dish detergents will usually contain lanolin and/or other oils that will leave deposits on the glass. Draught cleaning suppliers and restaurant suppliers will carry oil-free detergents designed for glassware. They don’t need to be low foaming but can be useful if a 3 or 4-compartment sink has electric spinning brushes. A dishwasher machine can be used if an establishment prefers to use one, so long as it is dedicated to beer and barware. No dairy!

Whether by hand in a 3 or 4-compartment sink or a dishwasher, care must be taken to ensure the correct dose of detergent, rinse-aid to mitigate any hardness, and sanitizer.

For manual cleaning in a 3 or 4 compartment sink, dump any remaining beer either in an empty sink or a standpipe to bypass the brushes, wash/scrub the glass with the brushes, wash the glass heal-in and heal-out in the next sink, then sanitize in the last sink heal-in heal-out. Let the glassware air dry upside down.

Usually, a glass rinser often is used right before serving the beer from a faucet. This is to remove any residual sanitizer or dust that may have found its way into the glass, slightly chills the glass, and more importantly creates a wet surface on the glass to let the beer flow into it with little fr
iction.

A word on chilled or frozen glassware. A chilled glass is ok, but it may take on the flavors present in the fridge it was stored. The glass rinser will provide adequate cooling.

Frozen glassware is never recommended! Think about it. Once the glass is cleaned and sanitized, it is then placed in the freezer. The sanitizer is frozen over the glass and the beer is, in turn, poured over it. Two things will happen. First, the frozen crystals create a rough surface for the beer to flow over and will create a turbulent pour with way too much carbonation and foam creation. This causes the foam to be poured down the drain, which is a waste of product, and the beer that’s left is way too flat. Second, the icebergs you see floating atop that may look refreshing are indeed frozen sanitizer that has ended up in your beer! Ask for a non-frozen class whenever possible.

It's ok to send a beer back, just be polite about it. Usually, the server may be unaware of the issues, and it is not their fault. Please keep that in mind. There is no need to be snobby or rude about it and also keep in mind your location as any mention of this may be ignored outright.

Below are some additional resources for you to read/watch for even more information to make sure the beer is enjoyed as it was meant to me.

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

Additional Resources

Beer Clean Glass Video (YouTube)

https://www.cicerone.org/us-en/blog/celebrate-beer-clean-glass-day

https://www.cicerone.org/us-en/blog/the-cicerone-guide-to-drinking-beer-at-home

 

The Reinheitsgebot and German Beer Day!

Bitburger Pils
The Phoenix Club, Anaheim, CA

*Originally Published 4/23/2021, Updated 4/23/2022*

Happy #GermanBeerDay!

On this day over 500 years ago, April 23, 1516, Duke of Bavaria, Wilheim IV decreed what will eventually be the longest still-standing brewing standard we now refer to as the German Purity Law: The Reinheitsgebot.

The story goes, this law was enacted so brewers could produce quality beer using only water, hops, and barley malt. Yeast was not mentioned because they did not yet know about what it was, it is said. Although it makes for a wonderful story, this is only partially true. Of the over 300 translated words, a bit less than 30 of them are about beer.

Among other reasons, the Purity Law was legislated to stabilize the price of bread by ensuring barley was used for beer and resulted in only backers could use wheat for bread and the royals could use wheat for their beer. Wilheim IV, as a member of the royal Bavarian family, the Wittelsbach’s, had a historical, unwilling hand in the modern-day Weissbier (Hefeweizen) with this order, too. By the way, the Wittelsbach's are also the royal family that would later celebrate (in 1810) a wedding of a prince that would later become the Oktoberfest.

An undisputed positive result was the ban on the use of some ingredients that were harming beer drinkers before the proclamation was enacted. Additives, such as belladonna or wormwood, would have some psychedelic and/or toxic effects that understandably found their way off the list of approved list of ingredients.

It can be argued the non-mention of yeast is because it did not stay in the beer. However, it is most likely that yeast was indeed known at that time because there were brewery workers called ‘hefener,’ and ‘hefe’ means yeast. They were responsible to put the ‘zeug’ (stuff) leftover from one batch to another to encourage fermentation. Perhaps they did know it was yeast, which could explain why it was left out, but they knew it did the job. In other words, it may be that yeast was simply implied.

This law only applied to Bavarian breweries, too. Lager brewing was very well established by this time and the restrictions in The Purity Law were favorable, luckily. In 1553, Wilheim’s successor and son, Duke Albrecht V, outlawed brewing in the summer months due to the inconsistent beers being produced during these warmer months. The dates Albrecht chose were April 23rd, the original date of his father’s proclamation, to September 29th. They didn't understand why, yet they knew fermentation and cold storage (“Lagern,” German verb “to store”) done in the colder months of the year resulted in higher quality beers.

Northern breweries were predominantly Ale producers and most used either wheat and/or other spices. In fact, Köln (Cologne) enacted a similar decree in 1603 that outlawed bottom-fermenting (Lager) brewing to preserve the brewing tradition and beer quality. Some have speculated this was done in direct response, while the timing may only be a coincidence. The more logical reason is the clement in Northern Germany is warmer on average and is more suitable for top-fermenting (Ale) conditions.

To add more confusion, in 1551, Bavaria began to allow the use of some additional ingredients, such as coriander, and in 1616 more ingredients were added, like salt. German Unification in 1871 resulted in a law that omitted mention of any ingredient restriction for taxation purposes. Ale and Lagers were separated in the law in 1906 and the ingredient restriction only applied to Lagerbier.

The first time the decree was referred to as “The Purity Law” was not until after World War I. Bavaria joined the new German union under the pretense that their version of the Purity Law joined with them, thereby creating two laws once again, for Ales and Lagers. It was referred to as the Reinheitsgebot from 1919 going forward. This means the Lager brewing tradition that was perfected in Bavaria can still adhere to their law while the Ale producers (Kölsch, Alt, Weisse, Gose, etc…) are also legal. Both laws are now under the Biersteuergesetz (Beer Tax Law) after the Berlin Wall came down in 1989, unifying Germany yet again.

In 1987, the European Union declared that imported beer into Germany does not need to meet The Purity Law.

The 1993( most recent) update to the law further clarifies what was done in 1906. The law is still the same, with the addition of being more restrictive in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg with no additional adjunct sugars permitted, even for Ale, and Bavaria can not use sugar adjuncts even for export.

Clear enough? No!? Well, that's understandable. Given the turbulent past in that region, the constant modification of the law makes it difficult to follow. Add to that the use of the word Reinheitsgebot in marketing and we have the understanding (or misunderstanding?) of the proclamation.

On this German Beer Day, take joy that the pride of German brewing tradition is alive and well. Hoist your pint up and appreciate the part of history that played an integral part in shaping that beer.

Prost!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

References

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Dornbusch, H. D. (1997). Prost! The Story of German Beer. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Kraus-Weyermann, T., Dornbusch, H. D. (2018). Dark Lagers: History, Mystery, Brewing Techniques, Recipes. Master Brewers Associations of the Americas (MBAA).

Cold IPA: Where No Brut Has Gone Before

As far as styles go, it took Hazy/New England IPA’s years of upward trends and research for them to be added to the Brewers Association (BA) and Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) Guidelines, 2018 and officially 2021 respectively. With Cold IPA gaining traction fast and the beers tasting great, this new take on IPA is going where Brut IPA never had a chance to. Cold IPA isn’t an official style (dare I say, yet?), but it does have some distinction and potential for it to stick around for the long term.

Here's some irony for you: The 2021 update to BJCP includes Brut IPA. Similar situation to when the 2015 update included Black IPA when that style had fallen in popularity by then.

Some trends come in strong but remain somewhat popular to stick around here and there like Black IPA/American Black Ale. Others have nearly disappeared from the landscape while others reluctantly refuse to go away like Milkshake IPA. Then, some trends completely vanish like Brut IPA. As I see it, this current trend of Cold IPA is a culmination of the constant want for Lagerbier to be the next big trend and the popularity of anything IPA.

Sidenote: I’ve come to realize the Lagerbier family of beers has gained much love and respect in the beer community from not only brewers and beertenders, but even among enthusiasts. No trend is needed anymore!

What the hell is a Cold IPA, anyways? The knee-jerk reaction is to say Cold IPA is simply a new marketing term for India Pale Lager (IPL) is one that makes sense when taken at face value. I asked around my beer community, mainly enthusiasts and casual drinkers if they had any idea what a Cold IPA was. It was surprising that, even among some of my closest beer-drinking friends, many could not either give me a concise answer from one to another or had no clue as to what it was. Most fell along the lines of it being a marketing ploy for IPL. There is a difference, however. Even if I stayed quiet at the time or simply agreed with my friends, I did so because I was still taking mental notes.

As Kevin Davey from Wayfinder, the creator of Cold IPA, points out in his post to New School Beer (link below), Cold IPA incorporates the use of rice or corn adjusts, lager yeast at ale temperatures (65°F) or Kölsch yeast (at about 60°F) to reduce sulfur compounds while still providing some fruity esters, and dry hop at the tail end of fermentation. That last point is one of the key processes used in Hazy/New England IPA’s to capitalize on biotransformation of hop resins by still-active yeast. The grain bill leans towards an Italian Pilsner base. Although Davey doesn't do this as part of his method, a short Lagering time also seems to be used at some of my local spots, which would make sense so long as the result is as intended. Expressive and vibrant hop verities as with a typical American IPA. Filtering or centrifuging for bright clarity isn’t out of the question, either.

To further make a distinction away from IPL or Dry-Hopped Lagers, Davey points out that the use of an American IPA grain bill and fermenting with a lager yeast does not yield pleasant results most of the time. Likewise, with a Pilsner that is then dry-hopped with distinctively aromatic hops used for IPA, he points out. This is likely due to the citrus and tropical fruit-forward hops used in IPA's don't have any esters to dance with. While there are some examples of both processes that lead to tasty beers, I’d argue not at the rate that Cold IPA has in its short time in the spotlight. Brut IPA never got this much love and it is nearly unanimous in agreement why; they did not fare well on the palate.

That’s not to say it’s clear-cut, and the argument is done. No, not far from that. Remember that BA and BJCP Guidelines are just that… guidelines. They are not law, thankfully. That gives the brewer great freedom to deviate from any said style to showcase his/her/their talents, artistry, creativity, and expertise. On the flip side, it is nice to have styles clearly defined and adhered to, especially when it comes to classic, traditional styles such as Helles, Dark Mild, or Flanders Red. A little give and take and flexibility tend to go a long way. If it didn’t, we would never have any new styles, I think. Cold IPA is a testament to that.

So, that was a quick rundown on Cold IPA. Around Orange County, we have some nice ones that have shown up. Green Cheek, Stereo, Radiant, and others have and I’m sure will continue to produce Cold IPA, although some may not use rice/corn as I’ve come to find out, or use a different/add in a lager method. Not a deal-breaker by any means just yet. It’s all part of the beauty when it’s not an official style… for now(?). Aromatic and oscillating back and forth between crisp/crushable and assertive/snappy, Cold IPA makes for one pleasant drinking experience.

Next time a fellow beer drinker asks what’s with this style and how it is or isn’t an IPL, you can discuss it over a cold one… a Cold IPA, that is.

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

Photo Credits:

Picture of Stereo beer by me. Photos of Radiant and Green Cheek beers were obtained from their respective social media, all credit to them.

Additional Good Reads on Cold IPA:

https://newschoolbeer.com/home/2021/2/what-is-a-cold-ipa-wayfinder-kevin-davey-definition

https://www.craftbeer.com/full-pour/is-cold-ipa-really-a-new-beer-style-and-does-that-even-matter?fbclid=IwAR153pY14TpOTzrM_iIRqe7KI1hcCZqeTnuEnx9jru2h-acgfTt3uF49aY4

“Bad” Beer: The Subjectively Objective Perspective

There’s a strange phenomenon in our industry that most of us are aware of and may even be a part of. That is the concept of “Bad” beer. A beer style or an individual beer may be brewed as intended, objectively clean, and still called “Bad” in the eyes of many. This rhetoric is echoed constantly in social media groups, at pubs, taprooms, and brewery tasting rooms. I have some thoughts.

(Note: These thoughts are meant for those with some experience and are not intended for those who are new to beer and are barely dipping their taste buds into this world. This is not meant for those who are trying beer or a particular style for the first time. That is another discussion altogether and those learning should be shown encouragement.)

I’ll just come right out and say what is undoubtedly an unpopular sentiment and I’ll say it as objectively as I can with my knowledge and experience as a basis: There is no inherent “Bad” beer… unless we are talking about one’s perspective and subjectivity.

This leads me to the point of this write-up: subjective vs objective. In this context, subjectivity is driven by individual taste preferences, while objectivity is based on predefined parameters. It may be true that we all have our preferred tastes and perceptions of what we find enjoyable, which is based on personal experience and is usually distinct from person to person. By contrast, however, objectivity holds to a notion even if one disagrees solely on preference or even if one disregards it completely.

Coming from a position of logic, experience, and understanding, I am convinced that “Bad” beer, when looked at objectively, is when it is noted to have identifiable and perceivable compounds that should not be detected in any beer. We are talking about compounds such as Isovaleric Acid, Butyric Acid, Trans-2-Nonanal, Chlorophenols, Mercaptans, Metallic, Acetic Acid, and so on. These flavors or sensations are largely unpleasant (some are unpleasant only in large concentrations) and are indicators that something has gone wrong somewhere.

Other flavor compounds are not so severe, however, and are even commonplace. During my sensory panels and lectures, I take the time to point out what compounds are acceptable in certain beer styles where they are otherwise out-of-style. For example, the ester Isoamyl Acetate in Weissbier, Dunkels Weissbier, Weizenbock, and Kristalweizen is not only common but is welcomed, usually prominent, and a defining feature of the styles. While styles like Dubbel, Tripel, or Roggenbier (and others) may or may not have varying degrees of Isoamyl Acetate. If present in an American Wheat Beer or Witbier, it’s not-to-style as defined by guidelines. The same is true with nearly any other style because high ester production is usually an indicator of improper fermentation temperatures. Yet the yeast strains for the styles mentioned (along with their wort composition) above produce Isoamyl Acetate in high perceivable quantities.

Another example is the dreaded D-word; the most common undesirable flavor and arguably the most well-known fermentation-derived unwanted compound, Diacetyl. Even this compound is acceptable in some European Ales (Bitters, most Stouts, Porter, Old Ale, Flanders Red, Oud Bruin, Wee Heavy, Irish Red, and more) so long as it is in a low perceivable quantity. Even the mighty Lagerbier, isn’t left unscathed. The Czech Lager family, including Czech Premium Pale Lager (better known as Czech/Bohemian Pilsner), and the German Kellerbiers are allowed to have small amounts of Diacetyl. A perceivable presence of Diacetyl doesn’t make those beers or styles “Bad” even though we have a negative connotation in our minds about the compound.

Lightstruck flavor development is often used as a reason certain beers are referred to as “Bad.” Most of the time, this is a result of packaging in a clear or green bottle and usually, marketing is to blame. For those beers, I’d recommend finding it on draught or canned. Now, if that beer or style is still not to one’s liking while not skunked up, then we are back to the subjectivity of the matter.

Sometimes it’s the beer style taking the heat being called inherently “Bad.” Light American Lager is possibly the best example of this. It’s not uncommon for a beer drinker to be taunting and scoffing at a can, bottle, or faucet market (tap handle) of Natural Light, Miller Lite, Coors Light, Bud Light, and the like. I can’t help but ask, “Why the insistence of mockery? Is it towards the style or the beer itself? If it’s the beer, what’s wrong with it? If it’s the style, the question still stands; what’s wrong with it?” Never mind the DMS and Acetaldehyde that are usually present in those beers, which are acceptable in the usual low levels found in styles such as this.

If there’s an inherent and obvious unpleasant flavor in the beer (one that makes you spit it out or push it back from your nose in disgust), then I’m all ears and open for discussion. However, if it’s the beer style that is simply not appreciated by preference and is still being talked down upon, I’d be hard-pressed to ask even more questions to affirm one’s claim that the style itself is "Bad." The beer is often as the brewer intended and/or it is brewed for the enjoyment of the clientele it is meant for. If, for example, there is some aspect of the beer that places it out of style (for judging purposes) but otherwise no perceivable undesirable characters, would it still be considered a “Bad” beer? Think about Pastry Stouts, Milkshake IPA, Smoothy-Style Sours, or as mentioned above, American Light Lager.

Hypothetically, if one desires to enjoy a Belgian Golden Strong Ale for instance, and proceeds to order a malt-balanced beer with just a touch of bitterness, clean lager fermentation, golden in color, average ABV, and notes of crackers and dried hay from the grainy-sweet malt, and then complains that it’s a “Bad” beer, I’d question to explain your reasoning for ordering that Helles. Suppose someone enjoys Stouts and Porters and can’t stand anything with highly perceived hop bitterness, the Pale Ale they ordered is not going to suit their subjective palate. If it’s to expand one’s horizons, then great! Enjoy the journey.

Perhaps it is how we associate certain flavor compounds and the way we have been thought, or teaching them to sensory panelists that can at least partially explain how some of us act. In her book "How to Taste: A Guide to Discovering Flavor and Savoring Life," Mandy Naglich points out the importance of how we link new flavors and potential pitfalls when we associate them in a negative context. Using words like "Flaw" and "Off-Flavor" about a compound when we first learn about it will ruin our first impression. If we tie it to a bad memory, it will be difficult to shake off. I, unfortunately, was not only a victim of this, but I came to this realization far too late after teaching so many Off-Flavor sessions to first-time tasters. I will no longer call them "Off-Flavor Panels."

Not finding a beer or style enjoyable based on subjectivity is understandable and perfectly fine. However, if the two scenarios above are done on purpose to blast it publicly on social media, in person, on BeerAdvocate, or Untappd just for the check-ins, is, to put it bluntly, disrespectful., Not just to the audience, but to the brewers who worked hard to bring those beers to market.

Using one’s subjectivity to state something fact, in this context stating a beer is “Bad” on an anecdotal basis, is logically incorrect. The honest way to go about it is to simply acknowledge the personal perspective of the beer or style is not to one’s liking, preference, or enjoyment and move on. That is, of course, if the beer is objectively sound.

One final word on the subject. Just because a particular beer or style is popular with some and/or is common geographically does not mean it should be adored by all beer drinkers. On the flip side, one should not feel like an outcast for not finding favor in such products, either. If we all realize and recognize this, the beer world would be an even better place and might once again become the friendly, welcoming, sociable environment I remember falling in love with.

Admittedly, I was once a “Bad” beer proponent. I’ve since come to recognize the fallacy of my position and have subsequently shifted my stance. That does not mean every beer and style is to my liking; on the contrary, I have come to realize that some beer styles I once gave god-tier status to are now some of my least favorites. That may be an unlikely outcome and isn’t something that should happen, but I instead welcome enlightenment. It allows me to be as honest a beer drinker as I can be, and I love that.

Be kind, fellow humans. It’s just beer! Now if you’ll excuse me, I’ll be enjoying the hell out of this Coors Light.

Cheers!

-Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®