The Savior: Liquid Bread Lagerbiers from Helles and Bock

*Portions of this essay have been obtained, added to, and/or modified from previous publications I authored on this subject matter elsewhere.*

*Current update: 12/3/2023*

#DrinkMoreDoppelbock

We’ve all heard beer referred to as liquid bread once or twice. This analogy can fit many styles such as a Bavarian Weissbier. But the Bock Lagerbier family of beer styles have a greater affinity to liquid bread than any other.

Lent begins today (for those who participate), and the Doppelbock has a direct connection to that monastic practice, too. This beer style is often said to have originated in Munich, and monks are credited for its creation. Although technically true, the origin story begins in northern Germany, and the monks were from another European country.

The Bockbier family and some other well-known German lager styles are also synonymous with seasons along with significant occasions. As the late-great beer writer Michael Jackson said on the motivating program The Beer Hunter, “a beer for every season. And an occasion for every beer... In Bavaria they say the year has five seasons; the fifth season has its official start here, at the beginning of May with the appearance of the rich, dark, powerful brew.”

He was referring to the Helles Bock, or Maibock, or sometimes called "Frühlingsbock"
(Spring Bock). The Helles Bock gets tapped while the weather is still warming up and might still have days of cool weather in May when spring is in full bloom, but it is no longer snowing. Summer arrives and we have the Munich Helles being chugged by the litter's full in Biergarten's across Bavaria. Fall brings out the partygoers when the Märzen/Festbier is tapped and the Oktoberfest celebration occurs. Winter ushers in the Christmas Bock or "Weihnachtsbock,” which we know here as traditional Bockbier or Dunkles Bock. And finally, around Ash Wednesday to Easter during the first quarter of the year (give or take) when winter still has a firm grip, we have Doppelbock.

Chrismas Bock by Enegren

Bockbier is under the German tax law as Starkbier, Strong Beer. These beers are at least 6% ABV. All Bockbier, including some not mentioned in this post, is Starkbier according to the tax law. Starkbierzeit (Strong Beer Season) is when the strongest beers show up, usually around Lent, and Maibock serves as the changeover from Starkbierzeit to early summer drinking in Biergarten's.

The story of Maibock, Bockbier, and Doppelbock begins in the city of Einbeck, located in northern Germany, in the mid-1500s. Einbeck was a thriving trade city, and its specialty trade item was beer. This ale was made with lightly kilned barley & wheat and was generously hopped. Einbeck's beer made its way into many cities including Munich. The ruling family of Bavaria was particularly fond of the Einbeck brew. Plenty of money was being spent on this beer and this caught the attention of the royals, the Wittelsbach’s. Some brewmasters from Einbeck were brought to Munich in 1540 to teach the Munich brewers a thing or two.

It is reasonable to believe that this is what prompted Duke Wilhelm V to construct the now-infamous Hofbräuhaus in 1589-90. By about 1610, Einbecker was being produced by the royals and sold to some of the public as well.

In 1612, Duke Maximillian I, Wilhelm V’s successor, convinced (perhaps coerced?) well-regarded Einbeck brewer Elias Pichler to move down to Munich and improve the Einbecker clones which were not living up to the northern originals. Pichler refined the brew to fit the parameters set forth about 100 years prior (The Reinheitsgebot, see the previous post). This meant the Einbecker no longer contained wheat malt as this was reserved for special beers made for the royal family and took advantage of the lagering tactics that were already well established by Munich brewers. The resulting beer was released at the Hofbräuhaus in 1614 and it was referred to as brewed the “Einbeck way.” It has been claimed that this was not only the first Bockbier but also the birth of Maibock.

Hofbräu Maibock

Now to discuss the monks. In 1627, they came marching in from Italy (yes, Italy!) over the Alps and took home near Munich. These monks were from the order of St. Francis of Paula. They began brewing shortly after arriving. These Franciscan monks established the Paulaner Brewery in 1634 and lay claim to the Doppelbock style. However, it went by another, more divine name.

As with most devout Catholics, Lent was taken very seriously. During this time, the monks would not eat solid food, and only liquid was allowed to be ingested. With Lent being the longest period of fasting for them, plenty of liquid would be consumed, most of which was the Bockbier they were already experts at producing.

Over time, the monks sought out the blessing from the Pope himself to consume such a wonderful beverage during Lent. The story goes that the beer arrived in a sour state after the long travel and the Pope was appalled by it. Not knowing it was infected, he gave them permission thinking they would never drink it. While the validity of this part of the story needs a pinch of salt, it would be reasonable to think it is at least partially true.

Upon the pontiff's approval, Bockbiers got stronger. This was figuratively liquid bread for the Paulaner monks. It was only natural the beer was referred to as “Salvator,” as in “The Savior,” for obvious reasons. In 1780, Paulaner was finally granted permission to brew commercially.

After the brewery came under Napoleon’s control in 1799, it lay in shambles until 1806 when it was rented by a brewer by the name of Franz Zacheri, who ultimately purchased it by 1813. Following a stretch of legal battles, in 1837 King Ludwig I finally permitted Zacheri to brew “Salvator” without obstruction. Clones were soon being produced by other breweries. The Schmederer brothers, Zacheri’s heirs, wisely trademarked “Salvator” in 1896. Paulaner is now the only one that can use the name “Salvator” for its Doppelbock. This is why we see other Doppelbocks with names such as Celebrator or Optimator keeping the “-ator” suffix since they cannot use the original name.

Celebrator Wall Mural at Ayinger
Aying, Germany

The Dunkles Bock eventually became the winter season's Starkbier. As with many other Lagerbiers and ales, the Helles Bock evolved into its current incarnation as a relatively pale lager (compared to the other Lager Bockbiers) sometime after the introduction of the Czech Premium Pale Lager, better known as the Czech or Bohemian Pilsner, in the mid to late 1800s.

A note on how “Bockbier” got its name: It is widely believed and accepted that it is a manipulation of the word “Einbeck” in the Bavarian dialect. This would make the word sound like “Ayn pock” and eventually evolved to “ein bock” (one bock). “Bock” is also the word for “buck” or “goat” in German, explaining why so many versions of Bockbier display goats on their labels.

That is quite ironic when you consider the development of the Doppelbock style as a byproduct of a testament of faith, yet the goat has some satanic symbolism in those same faith-based religions. Now, that’s metal! Moving on...

Continuing the language theme, German grammar incorporates genders into nouns. One may use Heller Bock or Helles Bock, and both are correct. (Applicable to Dunkler Bock and Dunkles Bock, too). Beer itself has a neuter gender, "das Bier." Bock, or goat, is a masculine, "der Bock." Depending on how one refers to the beer, either as the style or a goat will dictate what gender it is. Masculine: der Heller/Dunkler Bock. Or neuter: das Helles/Dunkles Bock.

Maibocks are flavorful with lots of rising bread aromas but be cautious at that seemingly gentle touch. They span from about 6.3% to 7.4% ABV and colors range from deep gold to amber. Aromas of freshly baked bread, dark caramel, honey, and a delicate spicy hop note in the background. On the palate, you will get toast, slight toffee sweetness, rounding off with a modest bitterness, and a clean lager, semi-dry finish.

Dunkles Bock and Doppelbocks are amazing and flavorful, but be cautious at that seemingly gentle touch. Dunkles Bocks are 6.3% to 7.2% ABV and colors range from copper to auburn. Doppelbocks are beers made for sippin’ as they span from about 7.0% to 10.0% ABV. Colors range from mahogany to deep garnet to almost black in some examples. Both Doppelbock and Dunkles Bock have similar tasting profiles with the latter being slightly less rich in perception and parameters. Aromas are almost like rising bread in the oven. On the palate, you’ll get toasty and bready notes, slight caramel and toffee sweetness, finishing off with moderate bitterness and a clean lager character. The darker versions have some chocolate flavors, too. Silky, full, and round on the tongue and finishes cozy and clean.

All Bockbiers are brewed (historically, at least) using the decoction method where portions of the mash are boiled and added back to the mash to reach desired temperatures. This creates a rich, complex Mallard reaction to the finished beer. Then benefit from extended Lagering to round out the flavors. (More on Lagerbier here!)

A quick blirb on Eisbock. These Bockbiers not only originate outside of Munich, but they are also the peculiar ones of the family. The story goes, according to Kulmbacher, in 1890 a brewer forgot a couple of barrels filled with Bockbier that were supposed to go into the cellar. They instead endured the cold Franconian winter under snow and ice. When they were finally exposed in the spring, the water from the beer had frozen, expanded, and burst the barrels. The frozen liquor that was left was a concentrated concoction. Due to the freeze distillation, Eisbock's can reach upwards of 15% ABV with more richness than the most robust Doppelbock. Tread carefully!

Enjoying Aventinus Eisbock while in Munich

If you are not the fasting type, Maibocks are wonderful partners with food. They bring malty, toastiness with firm bitterness to the table. They are similar but more restrained to their stronger brethren (Dunkles Bock and Doppelbock) yet share many similar flavor notes with the Märzen, while having more strength. The food pairings reflect some overlap because of this. Game meats such as venison or wild boar with fruit sauces are great complements to both the meat and the sweet malt character of the beer. Steaks, backyard burgers, ham, sausages, and some barbeque will match the intensity, toasty malts and meat find affinity, and hops cut through any sweetness or lingering fats. For dessert, white chocolate cheesecake is a tried-and-true pairing.

Dunkles Bock and Doppelbock also pair with game meats such as venison or wild boar. Fruit sauces are great complements to both the meat and the sweet malt character of the beer. For an interesting combination, try Doppelbock with earthy, smoky Mexican dishes such as Oaxacan Mole. Don’t stop with the main course and try a caramel flan for dessert with Ayinger's Celebrator.

If you want to pair cheese with any of the Bockbiers, reach for Swiss Gruyère, smoked goudas, or Hoja Santa. No need for any bread or crackers as the beer provides the perfect compliment with all the toasty and nutty flavors to hug the cheese. For a unique experience, pair Doppelbock with a Triple Crème Cheese like Saint-Andre or Cowgirl's Mt Tam and when they meet on the palate, I dare you not to taste chocolate cheesecake.

Should you feel brave, serve Dunkles Bock and Helles Bock in a traditional 1-liter dimpled mug (Maß) at 40°F and take your time with it. Doppelbocks require half-liter mugs and smaller glassware for Eisbocks so we can remain coherent... responsible, in other words. Or embrace the elegance of this lager and serve it in a stylish wine glass, chalice, or goblet a bit warmer, about 45°F, pair with a meal, and enjoy what the monks gave us.

Prost!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

*All photos by me*

References:

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Amato, M. (2014). Beerology: Everything You Need to Know to Enjoy Beer… Even More. Appetite by Random House.

Dornbusch, H. D. (1997). Prost! The Story of German Beer. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Herz, J., Conley, G. (2015). Beer Pairing: The Essential Guide from the Pairing Pros. Voyageur Press.

Kraus-Weyermann, T., Dornbusch, H. D. (2018). Dark Lagers: History, Mystery, Brewing Techniques, Recipes. Master Brewers Associations of the Americas (MBAA).

McCalman, M., Gibbons, D. (2009). Mastering Cheese: Lessons for Connoisseurship from a Maître Fromager. Clarkson Potter.

Mosher, R. (2009, 2015). Tasting Beer: An Insider's Guide to the World's Greatest Drink. Storey Publishing.

Oliver, G. (2003). The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food. HarperCollins.

Oliver, G. (2012). The Oxford Companion to Beer. Oxford University Press.

Mexican Lagers: The Origins a Long Way From the Americas

*This is an updated essay (added to, and/or modified) from previous publications, authored by me, on the subject elsewhere*

September 16th, Mexican Independence Day.

What do you get when Austrians, Bavarians, Swiss, and Germans migrated to the Americas? If you said the accordion, you would probably be correct. If you said beer, you are indeed correct, too! Mexican Lagers have a unique past that most of us never consider. Today is Mexico's Independence Day and I want to show my pride for my heritage by talking about its beer! Put that lime wedge down for just a second and let us discuss the origins of Mexican Lager and a bit of Mexican history while we’re at it.

Mexico’s declaration of independence came on Sept. 16, 1810. Until the revolution began a century later in 1910, there was still a bit of turmoil. Along with other important historical events, the beer-related one is when an Austrian native declared himself emperor of Mexico, thinking it was the will of the Mexican people.

During the Napoleonic occupation of Mexico, Maximilian I, Archduke of Austria, born in Vienna, was crowned Emperor of Mexico in 1864. Unaware of an arrangement by conservative Mexicans to overthrow Liberal President Benito Juarez, and Napoleon III, who wanted to continue his reign and collect money, Maximillan I accepted the throne as Emperor of Mexico thinking he was democratically elected to it. He was not; he was deceived.

While Maximilian I held up many reforms, such as indigenous protections, and continued to antagonize the Roman Catholic hierarchy, Juarez continued to assert himself as the legitimate leader of the Mexican people. Furthermore, the condemnation of the power and privilege once held by the Catholic church is completely against conservative ideology. Refusing to reinstate any power or return confiscated treasures to Roman Catholics resulted in them (conservative Mexican powers that be) no longer supporting the empire as they once did.

With the American Civil War ending, the Monroe Doctrine was enforced. This forced the French to withdraw leaving Maximilian I at a major disadvantage. Eventually, Juarez took advantage. On June 19th, 1867, Maximilian was executed.

Depending on one's individual perception and predisposed ideals, Maximilian I can be looked at in one of two ways. He can be seen as the invading monarch who tried to usurp Benito Juarez. Or he can be seen as a tragic character who was a victim of deception while validly trying to rule under his liberalistic principles in his new homeland. His quote before execution supports the latter: “Voy a morir por una causa justa, la de la Independencia y la libertad de México. Que mi sangre selle las desgracias de mi nueva patria. ¡Viva México!”.

I am quite proud of my Mexican culture, and it is no surprise that I, and many of my fellow Mexicans, have a fair amount of Western European in my genetics, as well. And now you (we) know why.

Back to the beer. We begin where most Lagers begin: in Germany. And Austria since they were unified at this time. Upon returning from a research trip to England with a fellow brewer in 1833, Anton Dreher began experimenting with a revolutionary malt-roasting technique. A few years later, Dreher released a paler amber Lager made with his pale grain, dubbed Vienna Malt. This beer is what ultimately became the Vienna Lager. More on its evolution in Austria/Germany here!

While these beers lost popularity as quickly as they gained it thanks to the emergence of the Pale Lager in modern-day Czechia in 1842, German and Austrian immigrants were making their way to the Americas, specifically Mexico. As mentioned above, in 1864, Maximillian I became Mexico’s emperor, bringing Vienna Lager with him. There was an influx of Lager brewing, including brewers who produced Lager in the Vienna style. While Maximillian may have been executed by 1867, the thirst for Vienna Lager remained.

Santiago Graf, a Swiss-born brewer living in Mexico in the late 1800s, purchased Compania Cervecera Toluca y Mexico from a fellow Swiss immigrant. Graf soon began to import the ingredients to make the Vienna-style Lager. He would eventually also start using a locally abundant and inexpensive local ingredient Eventually, the pale Lager would gain popularity in Mexico, too, and evolved into the popular golden beer we see in advertisements with a lime wedged into the neck of the bottle. You can still find the remanence of the Vienna Lager, however.

Worthy of note is that it has been documented that Victoria's beer anthropology can be traced back to Graf's brewery. Remember that the next time someone looks at you with a raised brow of judgment while you proudly take a refreshing drink of history.

Cervecería Cuauhtémoc, the first major Mexican Lager brewery, was born in 1891. In the first half of the 1900s, there were about 35 independent breweries in Mexico. Hereafter, as with most businesses, there was a period of consolidation resulting in only two major Mexican brewery groups. The two groups are Cervecería Cuauhtémoc Moctezuma and Grupo Modelo. Cuauhtémoc Moctezuma offers brands such as Bohemia, Carta Blanca, Indio, Noche Buena, Sol, Superior, Tecate, and XX/XX Amber. Grupo Modelo runs the brands Corona, Estrella, Modelo/Negra Modelo, Montejo, Pacifico, Victoria, and a few others. Thankfully, there is a bit of a craft beer boom happening in Mexico. There are plenty of small, independent breweries now making some delightful beers.

The traditional Vienna Lager is made by utilizing Vienna malt, sometimes making up 100% of the grains are light amber to copper hued with a firm bitterness behind the elegant malt, medium body, moderate carbonation, and a range of around 4.7% to 5.5% ABV. You find a delicate bready character, often with light toasty notes, crisp cereal maltiness, and a dry finish. By contrast, the lighter, more common version, typically labeled as Mexican Lager, more resembles the American Lager than its historically Germanic cousin. Color ranges from light-toned straw to gold for the pale versions with medium-low to medium bitterness, high carbonation, and a range of 4.5% to 6%ABV or so. The use of flaked maize gives them an aroma of sweet corn along with a vitamin zing from the yeast. Quite the drinkable and refreshing beer.

Here on this side of the border, we have some amazing examples of Vienna and Mexican Lagers. Brewery X usually has a nice example of a Vienna Lager called I Know, Huh? with some toasted sweetbread characters (hopefully you can find a seat and enjoy this when it’s available). Helmsmen Ale House in Newport Beach usually has a Vienna Lager as well. A readily available and fantastic Pale Mexican Lager is Carlos Danger from Bearded Tang in Stanton. Lumino from Unsung is an award winner and shows off the light corn-like sweetness and water crackers typical of the style. Unsung also recently made an imperial version of Lumino and it was amazing! Artifexican by Artifex is usually always available to take care of your thirst.1886 in Orange once released Norteño Lite, a crisp and lively pale version that needs to make a return. Radiant, GameCraft, Green Cheek, Santa Ana River, Rad, and Bottle Logic usually offer wonderful and invigorating Pale and/or Amber Mexican Lagers. Keep an eye out at those locations and at your local spot to release one as they most likely will if they have not already.

With food, it is important to remember to keep the intensities in mind and keep the salsa and chile at respectable levels to avoid overpowering the beer. Mexican Lagers tend to find themselves alongside Tex-Mex, traditional Mexican plates, and Latin American cuisine. Tacos, Burritos, Tostadas, Enchiladas, or Nachos find wonderful partners with both versions of the Lager, lime or not. They won’t offend the dish and the carbonation will provide a nice contrast by scrubbing away any fats and oils. However, some grilled fish tacos might be the best example where both versions of the Lager will find an ally. Keep it simple here and char the fish over the grill and serve on a corn tortilla that has been heated over the same flame with a bit of oil, add some onion, cilantro, cabbage, or lettuce, and squeeze some lime into it to resonate with the refreshing nature of the beer. Side dishes like earthy beans, savory rice, and umami-rich cotija cheese will flavor-hook with the cracked cereal grain and corn flavors in the Lager. The darker Vienna Lagers find partners with dishes when grilled and roasted meats are involved to bridge the browning in the carne asada, pollo asado, or al pastor with the sweet, more toasted bread and gram cracker notes in the beer.

We all have traditions. Although I may not always express it, my Mexican heritage flows through my blood as freely as these beer styles at a ‘fiesta de cumple.’ I devote many hours with my family -my father in particular- and we devote hours upon hours chatting about absolutely nothing while enjoying a few Mexican Lagers. Even though beers from Mexico have Germanic origins, the connections I built with my father have no borders. It is because of him that I am who I am. And a good Mexican Lager beer, lime or not, will always be what keeps us together.

¡Salud y Viva México!

-Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

References

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Amato, M. (2014). Beerology: Everything You Need to Know to Enjoy Beer… Even More. Appetite by Random House.

Carpenter, D., (2017). Lager: The Definitive Guide to Tasting and Brewing the World's Most Popular Beer Styles. Voyageur Press.

Dornbusch, H. D. (1997). Prost! The Story of German Beer. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Kraus-Weyermann, T., Dornbusch, H. D. (2018). Dark Lagers: History, Mystery, Brewing Techniques, Recipes. Master Brewers Associations of the Americas (MBAA).

Herz, J., Conley, G. (2015). Beer Pairing: The Essential Guide from the Pairing Pros. Voyageur Press.

McCalman, M., Gibbons, D. (2009). Mastering Cheese: Lessons for Connoisseurship from a Maître Fromager. Clarkson Potter.

Oliver, G. (2003). The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food. HarperCollins.

Oliver, G. (2012). The Oxford Companion to Beer. Oxford University Press.

https://www.britannica.com/biography/Maximilian-archduke-of-Austria-and-emperor-of-Mexico

Kölsch – The German Ale/Lagerbier

Kölschkranz of Gaffel Kölsch. Image by Gaffel.

*This is an updated essay -added to, and/or modified- from previous publications, authored by me, on the subject elsewhere*

It is no secret that Germany is famous for Lagerbier. It is the county of origin for the balanced Helles, consumed by the liter at Biergarten during summer in Bavaria. Also, home to the semi-sweet Dunkel, toasty Märzen & Festbier, and bready Doppelbock. But Lager is not the only family of beers Germany is known for. Whether historically or because of the climate, various German Ales exist; in certain regions, these styles are preferred over any Lager. Weissbier (or Hefeweizen as it is known here in the States) was arguably the most popular and most recognizable. Kölsch, however, was once a lesser-known surviving German Ale example that keeps alluring beer drinkers.

This beer style gets its name from the city it originated from, Köln (Cologne). As a beer style, Kölsch was not always as we know it today. Before modern refrigeration, Northern Germany brewed dark Ales that we now refer to as Alt (Old in German), referring to beers produced in the old or traditional way. In other words, beers fermented by Ale yeast. Laws in the region also played a part in shaping the golden-colored crisp German Ale.

The predecessor to what eventually evolved into the now famous Reinheitsgebot was enacted in 1516 in Bavaria to the south. The famous Purity Law was not originally written for any regulations on beer ingredients. It was not referred to as the Reinheitsgebot until a few centuries later. It was, in basic terms, an attempt to stabilize the price of grain. However, it did have an impact on brewers. A few decades later in 1553, the state of Bavaria outlawed brewing during summer months, laying down the groundwork for Lager brewing eventually taking over.

Up north in Köln in 1603, to preserve their brewing tradition and beer quality, a similar decree was passed that outlawed Lager brewing. Some have speculated this was done in direct response to the actions in Bavaria, while the timing may only be a coincidence. The more logical reason is that Northern Germany's clement is warmer and more suitable for Ale yeast fermentation conditions.

It took until the very early 1900s for the term Kölsch to take hold and designate the style that comes out of that city. World War I saw grain rationing, resulting in a drop in alcohol to the Kölsch. Taxation afterward kept the style from prospering and World War II nearly leveled the entire city. That may have rendered the Kölsch as a style now lost, but a couple of decades later saw a resurgence of the style as new brewpubs began to be constructed and Kölsch started to flow again.

Fast forward to the late 20th century. The brewers in Köln convened to distinguish their beer in the mid-1980s via the Kölsch Konvention, an agreement on what a Kölsch should be, down the type of yeast. We now have technological advancements in yeast cultivation, sanitation, and malt production. While the brewers in Düsseldorf took to perfecting the dark Ale now known as Altbier using toasty and bready Munich malt, Köln implemented the use of newer, paler malts such as Pilsner malt.

Although both Altbier and Kölsch are brewed with Ale yeast, the fermentation temperature is cooler than what Ale yeast normally desires. This results in a clean fermentation profile typically produced by Lager yeast. Both are then matured cold (Lagered) after primary fermentation to secure the appropriate gentle flavors. The two styles are known as hybrids; They are not quite Lagers and are not quite Ales. Some Kölsch brewers and drinkers have a name for this. Obergäriges Lagerbier, meaning Top-fermenting Lagerbier.

Everyone, the Kölsch by Everywhere Beer Co in Orange, CA

Kölsch is served in specific glassware called Stange (Pronounced SH-tahng-uh, which translates to stick). These Kölner Stange only hold 0.2L (200ml or about 6.5oz, 6.76oz to be exact) to ensure you finish your beer before it gets too warm. This must keep the bartenders and servers busy in the beer halls. Servers, called Köbes, will carry about 20 of them on specially designed trays called a Kölschkranz (Kranz means Wreath) over their heads or by its handle. The Köbes will continuously drop Kölsch off often before you are about to take your last sip. Or as Herr Bleister, Köbe for Früh (video link below) so clearly puts it, "Colognian people don't order beer. They just get it." A simple tick mark by a pen or marker will indicate how much you have consumed in your session. When you have had enough and they are about to drop off a cold and fresh Kölsch, there is no need to say, “No thank you.” Just place the coaster on top of the glass. That tells them you are done and ready to pay your tab.

A traditional Kölsch is brilliantly clear, clean, and pale gold in color. High carbonation levels result in an attractive, frothy white head and carry lots of refined hop aromatics for your note to pick out. Subtle Pils malt and some gentle fruit characters derived from the yeast are usually found, but not overpowering. The palate is soft, elegant, and pleasantly dry after a creaminess in the center, freshly cracked bread, and a snappy bitterness with an underlying vinous trait. Examples from Köln might impart a minerality from regional water hardness that may prove difficult to replicate by local examples, but it is not impossible.

Quantitative properties, based on the BJCP (Beer Judge Certification Program), are as follows, based on current guidelines as of this publication.

ABV: 4.4 - 5.2%
SRM: 3.5 - 5.0
IBU: 18 - 30

Pair with light salads, delicate fish with lots of citrus, or simple shellfish preparations for a pleasant meal experience. The mild temperament of the Kölsch will not overpower the flavors in your dish while the bready notes latch on to some of the earthy aspects of the meal. Sushi, with its delicate nature, meets Kölsch on the palate without any struggle. Cheeses with creamy textures, and earthy, savory notes such as brie aren’t afraid to take on a Kölsch. Gruyère and Comté are fine also partners, taking in all the nutty, peppery, buttery notes bridging with the snappy hops and light fruitiness. Take a salad with hard-boiled eggs and diced ham. Don’t be afraid to grab a Kölsch for brunch, either. Kölsch is just mild enough to not overpower those eggs benedict and can withstand any heaty meats on your plate. Of course, sausages are a wonderful pairing with the grains harmonizing with the pork flavors while the hop bitterness will tone down the salinity letting the savoriness shine. Carbonation scrubs any fat and oils away and lifts them off your tongue like a grease interceptor to help you reset for the next bite.

Kölsch Service at Green Cheek, Orange, CA

Many fine examples exist here in the US. I encourage looking for an independent brewery near you and experience this hybrid Ale/Lager style. Around Orange County, Green Cheek regularly offers a Kölsch-style by one name or another, Everywhere Beer Co’s Everyone, Stereo re-released their Kraftwerk Kölsch, and Bearded Tang’s Cologne Shark are excellent, sparkling representations of the style. Tour Time by Brewery X in Anaheim is nice, although it often displays more hop aromatics than usual. Be on the lookout for others in Orange County that regularly produce Kölsch, like Bottle Logic and others, as beer boards change daily sometimes, and try this versatile style.

Worthy of note, as of this publication update, Green Cheek, Everywhere, and Stereo periodically offer “Kölsch Service.” Check their availability, but it’s an excellent way to experience the Kölsch beer-drinking culture here in OC. Surely more will follow (nudge, nudge, brewery owners, and tasting room managers). See you out there!

Prost!

-Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

References

"Cologne, Land of the Kölsch." YouTube, uploaded by germanytourism, January 6, 2016, https://youtu.be/TFO0C9-Omio

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Amato, M. (2014). Beerology: Everything You Need to Know to Enjoy Beer… Even More. Appetite by Random House.

Dornbusch, H. D. (1997). Prost! The Story of German Beer. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Herz, J., Conley, G. (2015). Beer Pairing: The Essential Guide from the Pairing Pros. Voyageur Press.

McCalman, M., Gibbons, D. (2009). Mastering Cheese: Lessons for Connoisseurship from a Maître Fromager. Clarkson Potter.

Oliver, G. (2003). The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food. HarperCollins.

Oliver, G. (2012). The Oxford Companion to Beer. Oxford University Press.

Talley, J. (2017). Session Beers: Brewing for Flavors and Balance. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association.

Witbier: The Springtime Beer Revived by Pierre Celis

*Originally Posted March 21st, 2021*
*Updated March 21st, 2022, and March 20th, 2023*

Spring is here. The astronomical Spring Equinox usually lands on March 20th and marks the end of Winter. The warmer weather calls for an invigorating and refreshing beer. A well-known event in Germany and is celebrated with a Frühlingsfest (Spring Festival). Usually held later in spring towards the end of April, the invigorating Helles Bock (or Maibock) Lagerbier flows during this Oktoberfest teaser. While the malty German Lagerbier welcomes Spring appropriately enough, we head over to Belgium for the quintessential Springtime beer. We can thank a man born on March 21st, 1925, the first full day of spring 98 years ago.

In 1965, Pierre Celis overheard a conversation between two people reminiscing about white beers and how much they miss them. A milkman at the time, barely 5ft tall, Celis was hit by nostalgia himself. By the next year, 1966, Celis brewed the first of what is now the style we call Witbier. That’s the short of it (get it?). But, there is, oh, so much more to it.

Stepping into our beer-fueled time machine, Witbier, or White Beer, can be traced back to the 1300s in Leuven, Belgium (located about 15 miles east of Brussels) and the charming little town of Hoegaarden (10 or so miles south-east of Leuven). By 1851, documentation refers to three types of White Beer from this region. Leuven had a Wit or Blanche, and a darker version called Peeterman The Balance was noted as a pale, hazy, and frothy beer. Hoegaarden’s version was similar to the Louvain Blanche but described as more rustic.

All were also known to be infected by the lactic acid-producing bacteria Lactobacillus (or sometimes Pediococcus) with Hoegaarden being the sourest. An interesting aspect of this historical White Beers is the use of “wind malt” by the 1800s, This was malt allowed air-dry and was not kilned at all to impart the lightest color possible. Production included a large portion of unmalted wheat (up to 60% at times) and other grains such as oats. Brewing varied by type which included various other grains, mashing methods, and boil or no boil. The recorded use of spices was spotty, but it is known spices were indeed used, including Coriander and Curaçao (Bitter Orange) Peels. They all were cooled down in shallow, open-air vats called “coolships” overnight after brewing.

 

Considering the geographical location, ingredients, and process similarities, the old White Beers have some striking overlaps and parallels that could point to signs of relation to Lambic and Gose. The obvious connection is the spontaneous fermentation initiated by the open-air inoculation of bacteria via the coolships and the use of unmalted wheat. Lambics are aged for months or even years, while White Beers were served fresh at only a week or two. It can be argued that White Beer, particularly the Hoegaarden with its more antiquated process, was essentially a type of very young lambic. Gose also seemingly has a connection because of the historical use of Lauftmalz (“wind-malt”) and the notable presence of Coriander. Although there is no direct lineage on record, and Coriander may be leftover from when a blend of spices was common in all beer, it is interesting to think Gose and Wit might be related are related.

White beers began to decline during the first World War and continued to fall out of favor after the second, especially with the rise of the industrial lager. By 1957, the last remaining White Beer brewery, Tomsin Brewery, closed. Serendipitously, this was the same brewery Celis spent a brief time working at in his younger days. Celis, in 1966, installed a brewery in a cowshed with the help of a retired Hoegaarden brewer. The Hoegaarden beer and Witbier style was born, brewed for the first time in, you guessed it, March. It was not a replica of the old White Beers, but its refreshing, spritzy qualities grew modestly until 1985. Tragically, a fire that same year all but destroyed the brewery. To rebuild, Celis sold the majority holdings to Artois for the capital to rebuild. By 1990, Celis retired and sold the remaining stake to Hoegaarden.

Side note: Artios acquired by Interbrew; Interbrew and AmBev merged to form InBev; InBev partnered with Anheuser-Busch to form AB-InBev, which is the current conglomerate as of this post.

Celis relocated to Texas and opened Celis Brewing. After closing briefly in 2000 and the brand sold, it has since returned to Austin complete with a brewery, tasting room, and daughter Christine Celis as the owner. Aside from some hiccups that hit the pocketbook and the recent pandemic-related closure, Celis Brewing is still open and pouring. Pierre Celis has also had a hand in improving other famous Wit’s, including the rendition by St. Bernardus.

Pierre passed away on April 9th, 2011 at the age of 86.

The ingredients for Witbier still resemble its ancient roots. Unmalted Wheat at about 50% and pale malt make up the remaining bill with raw Oats at around 5 – 10% is acceptable. The Unmalted Wheat and Oats add proteins to promote haze and texture as well as encourage a white-ish complexion. Hops tend to play a background note if at all. Yeast is spicy, yet mellow compared to other prototypical Belgian styles. Variety is the spice of life and Witbier holds to that sentiment, in more ways than one. Typical Witbier spices include Coriander and Curaçao Peels, but it is not held to doctrine. Other spices include Ginger, Chamomile, or other Tea Leaves, Grains of Paradise, Lime or Lemon Zest, Cumin, Cinnamon, Lemongrass, and Black Pepper. So long as they are restrained and not overtly obvious, practically any spice is fair game. Some Lactic Acid is also a welcomed addition.

Bitterness is low at no more than 20 IBU’s typically and ABV is average at 4.5 – 5.5%. Color is a straw yellow with a milky yet not fully opaque cloak that should have a long-lasting fluffy white head of foam.

Witbier is just about the perfect way to objectify the feeling of a cool ocean breeze hitting your skin on a warm summer evening. Honey, vanilla, lemony, tangerines, and grains hit your nose. Flavors of cereal, orange peels, white flowers, snappy spice, and a zesty lemony zing. Finishing dry and sometimes with a refreshing acidic twang. Highly carbonated with an almost chewy, creamy texture.

Hoegaarden is still widely available and is still a good representation of what a Witbier should be. Apart from Celis White, other good examples to try that are wonderful, if not perfect, representations of the style are Allagash White, Avery’s White Rascal, Einstok’s Icelandic White Ale, St. Bernardus Wit, and (don’t hate) Blue Moon. Closer to home (Orange County, CA), San Juan Capistrano's Docent Brewing offers Luna as a wonderful example made with toasted orange peels. Radiant Brewing out of Anaheim has Blank Slate that shines with lemon, tea, and grainy flavors. Bearded Tang’s Witbier named Wit? Has beautiful elegant fragrances and classic flavors. Tustin Brewing Company’s Starting at Wit’s End begins with the familiar notes but finishes with a snappy minerality. Green Cheek and others have produced Witbier in the recent past so keep an eye out.

 
The best thing about Witbier is how food-friendly it is. Ricotta and fresh goat cheese pair seamlessly with Witbier as do preparations with Feta. Slather up some ricotta on toasted sourdough, drizzle a bit of honey, and crack some black pepper over it for a wonderful mid-morning snack to accompany your Witbier. A goat cheese omelet on a warm spring or summer morning is perfect. Keep it going for lunch. Salads? Yes, nearly all of them! Especially with tangy or lemony dressings. Try Witbier paired with baby greens salad made with spinach, arugula, oak leaf lettuce, mizuna, and frisée salad tossed in a honey-lemon vinaigrette topped with goat cheese, toasted almonds, and dried cranberries. Witbier and brunch will put your mimosa to shame. Citrus and cilantro-laden Mexican or Thai dishes match up perfectly with the spices and acidity of Witbier. Seafood such as Seared Scallops or Pan-fired Shrimp Tossed in Lemon-Garlic Butter is no sweat for Witbier. And, of course, Sushi! An absolutely brilliant match with the grains and citrus acidity lending itself to the fish meat while the coriander and ginger echo each other. The delicate nature of the beer matches the fineness of sushi. It is no wonder why Witbier has found a comfortable second home in Japan.

There you have it. Spring has arrived and this beer style welcomes in the season's warmer weather perfectly. As you enjoy a Witbier with the knowledge you now have, remember the man that revived this style nearly a century ago. If it wasn’t for Pierre Celis, the Witbier would only be referred to as an ancient beer style. He may be gone, but his legacy continues with every effervescent, perfumey, and refreshingly satisfying glass of Witbier.

He would have been 98 this year. Happy birthday, good Sir. And, thank you.

Pierre Celis

(March 21, 1925 – April 9, 2011)

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

 

References/Resources:

Allen, F. (2018). Gose: Brewing a Classic German Beer for the Modern Era. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Hieronymus, S. (2010). Brewing with Wheat: The ‘Wit’ and ‘Weizen’ of World Wheat Beer Styles. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Oliver, G. (2003). The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food. HarperCollins.

Sparrow, J. (2005). Wild Brews: Beer Beyond the Influences of Brewer’s Yeast. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Photo of Pierre Celis obtained from Wikipedia on March 21'st 2021: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Celis

All other photos by the author.