Witbier: The Springtime Beer Revived by Pierre Celis

*Originally Posted March 21st, 2021*
*Updated March 21st, 2022, and March 20th, 2023*

Spring is here. The astronomical Spring Equinox usually lands on March 20th and marks the end of Winter. The warmer weather calls for an invigorating and refreshing beer. A well-known event in Germany and is celebrated with a Frühlingsfest (Spring Festival). Usually held later in spring towards the end of April, the invigorating Helles Bock (or Maibock) Lagerbier flows during this Oktoberfest teaser. While the malty German Lagerbier welcomes Spring appropriately enough, we head over to Belgium for the quintessential Springtime beer. We can thank a man born on March 21st, 1925, the first full day of spring 98 years ago.

In 1965, Pierre Celis overheard a conversation between two people reminiscing about white beers and how much they miss them. A milkman at the time, barely 5ft tall, Celis was hit by nostalgia himself. By the next year, 1966, Celis brewed the first of what is now the style we call Witbier. That’s the short of it (get it?). But, there is, oh, so much more to it.

Stepping into our beer-fueled time machine, Witbier, or White Beer, can be traced back to the 1300s in Leuven, Belgium (located about 15 miles east of Brussels) and the charming little town of Hoegaarden (10 or so miles south-east of Leuven). By 1851, documentation refers to three types of White Beer from this region. Leuven had a Wit or Blanche, and a darker version called Peeterman The Balance was noted as a pale, hazy, and frothy beer. Hoegaarden’s version was similar to the Louvain Blanche but described as more rustic.

All were also known to be infected by the lactic acid-producing bacteria Lactobacillus (or sometimes Pediococcus) with Hoegaarden being the sourest. An interesting aspect of this historical White Beers is the use of “wind malt” by the 1800s, This was malt allowed air-dry and was not kilned at all to impart the lightest color possible. Production included a large portion of unmalted wheat (up to 60% at times) and other grains such as oats. Brewing varied by type which included various other grains, mashing methods, and boil or no boil. The recorded use of spices was spotty, but it is known spices were indeed used, including Coriander and Curaçao (Bitter Orange) Peels. They all were cooled down in shallow, open-air vats called “coolships” overnight after brewing.

 

Considering the geographical location, ingredients, and process similarities, the old White Beers have some striking overlaps and parallels that could point to signs of relation to Lambic and Gose. The obvious connection is the spontaneous fermentation initiated by the open-air inoculation of bacteria via the coolships and the use of unmalted wheat. Lambics are aged for months or even years, while White Beers were served fresh at only a week or two. It can be argued that White Beer, particularly the Hoegaarden with its more antiquated process, was essentially a type of very young lambic. Gose also seemingly has a connection because of the historical use of Lauftmalz (“wind-malt”) and the notable presence of Coriander. Although there is no direct lineage on record, and Coriander may be leftover from when a blend of spices was common in all beer, it is interesting to think Gose and Wit might be related are related.

White beers began to decline during the first World War and continued to fall out of favor after the second, especially with the rise of the industrial lager. By 1957, the last remaining White Beer brewery, Tomsin Brewery, closed. Serendipitously, this was the same brewery Celis spent a brief time working at in his younger days. Celis, in 1966, installed a brewery in a cowshed with the help of a retired Hoegaarden brewer. The Hoegaarden beer and Witbier style was born, brewed for the first time in, you guessed it, March. It was not a replica of the old White Beers, but its refreshing, spritzy qualities grew modestly until 1985. Tragically, a fire that same year all but destroyed the brewery. To rebuild, Celis sold the majority holdings to Artois for the capital to rebuild. By 1990, Celis retired and sold the remaining stake to Hoegaarden.

Side note: Artios acquired by Interbrew; Interbrew and AmBev merged to form InBev; InBev partnered with Anheuser-Busch to form AB-InBev, which is the current conglomerate as of this post.

Celis relocated to Texas and opened Celis Brewing. After closing briefly in 2000 and the brand sold, it has since returned to Austin complete with a brewery, tasting room, and daughter Christine Celis as the owner. Aside from some hiccups that hit the pocketbook and the recent pandemic-related closure, Celis Brewing is still open and pouring. Pierre Celis has also had a hand in improving other famous Wit’s, including the rendition by St. Bernardus.

Pierre passed away on April 9th, 2011 at the age of 86.

The ingredients for Witbier still resemble its ancient roots. Unmalted Wheat at about 50% and pale malt make up the remaining bill with raw Oats at around 5 – 10% is acceptable. The Unmalted Wheat and Oats add proteins to promote haze and texture as well as encourage a white-ish complexion. Hops tend to play a background note if at all. Yeast is spicy, yet mellow compared to other prototypical Belgian styles. Variety is the spice of life and Witbier holds to that sentiment, in more ways than one. Typical Witbier spices include Coriander and Curaçao Peels, but it is not held to doctrine. Other spices include Ginger, Chamomile, or other Tea Leaves, Grains of Paradise, Lime or Lemon Zest, Cumin, Cinnamon, Lemongrass, and Black Pepper. So long as they are restrained and not overtly obvious, practically any spice is fair game. Some Lactic Acid is also a welcomed addition.

Bitterness is low at no more than 20 IBU’s typically and ABV is average at 4.5 – 5.5%. Color is a straw yellow with a milky yet not fully opaque cloak that should have a long-lasting fluffy white head of foam.

Witbier is just about the perfect way to objectify the feeling of a cool ocean breeze hitting your skin on a warm summer evening. Honey, vanilla, lemony, tangerines, and grains hit your nose. Flavors of cereal, orange peels, white flowers, snappy spice, and a zesty lemony zing. Finishing dry and sometimes with a refreshing acidic twang. Highly carbonated with an almost chewy, creamy texture.

Hoegaarden is still widely available and is still a good representation of what a Witbier should be. Apart from Celis White, other good examples to try that are wonderful, if not perfect, representations of the style are Allagash White, Avery’s White Rascal, Einstok’s Icelandic White Ale, St. Bernardus Wit, and (don’t hate) Blue Moon. Closer to home (Orange County, CA), San Juan Capistrano's Docent Brewing offers Luna as a wonderful example made with toasted orange peels. Radiant Brewing out of Anaheim has Blank Slate that shines with lemon, tea, and grainy flavors. Bearded Tang’s Witbier named Wit? Has beautiful elegant fragrances and classic flavors. Tustin Brewing Company’s Starting at Wit’s End begins with the familiar notes but finishes with a snappy minerality. Green Cheek and others have produced Witbier in the recent past so keep an eye out.

 
The best thing about Witbier is how food-friendly it is. Ricotta and fresh goat cheese pair seamlessly with Witbier as do preparations with Feta. Slather up some ricotta on toasted sourdough, drizzle a bit of honey, and crack some black pepper over it for a wonderful mid-morning snack to accompany your Witbier. A goat cheese omelet on a warm spring or summer morning is perfect. Keep it going for lunch. Salads? Yes, nearly all of them! Especially with tangy or lemony dressings. Try Witbier paired with baby greens salad made with spinach, arugula, oak leaf lettuce, mizuna, and frisée salad tossed in a honey-lemon vinaigrette topped with goat cheese, toasted almonds, and dried cranberries. Witbier and brunch will put your mimosa to shame. Citrus and cilantro-laden Mexican or Thai dishes match up perfectly with the spices and acidity of Witbier. Seafood such as Seared Scallops or Pan-fired Shrimp Tossed in Lemon-Garlic Butter is no sweat for Witbier. And, of course, Sushi! An absolutely brilliant match with the grains and citrus acidity lending itself to the fish meat while the coriander and ginger echo each other. The delicate nature of the beer matches the fineness of sushi. It is no wonder why Witbier has found a comfortable second home in Japan.

There you have it. Spring has arrived and this beer style welcomes in the season's warmer weather perfectly. As you enjoy a Witbier with the knowledge you now have, remember the man that revived this style nearly a century ago. If it wasn’t for Pierre Celis, the Witbier would only be referred to as an ancient beer style. He may be gone, but his legacy continues with every effervescent, perfumey, and refreshingly satisfying glass of Witbier.

He would have been 98 this year. Happy birthday, good Sir. And, thank you.

Pierre Celis

(March 21, 1925 – April 9, 2011)

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

 

References/Resources:

Allen, F. (2018). Gose: Brewing a Classic German Beer for the Modern Era. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Hieronymus, S. (2010). Brewing with Wheat: The ‘Wit’ and ‘Weizen’ of World Wheat Beer Styles. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Oliver, G. (2003). The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food. HarperCollins.

Sparrow, J. (2005). Wild Brews: Beer Beyond the Influences of Brewer’s Yeast. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Photo of Pierre Celis obtained from Wikipedia on March 21'st 2021: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Celis

All other photos by the author.

Hop Creep: The Ghost of Brewing's Past

Ever had a wonderful, hop-forward beer at a brewery only to wonder why it tastes a bit dry, or over-carbonated, or perhaps developed some unpleasant Diacetyl in the can or bottle you brought home? You just had it a few days ago from the source, yet now there’s something not right about it. What’s scary is a can or bottle becoming over-carbonated and leaving you with a puddle to mop up when it once had appropriate levels of CO2. Almost as if these changes seemingly crept up on the beer. Well, they kind of did.

The Past

There’s a phenomenon in the brewing industry that was seemingly forgotten or at least put on the sidelines for over 100 years. Dry Hop Creep (Hop Creep for short) is very interesting and is important for brewers to understand, especially if they want to make exceptional IPAs. First mentioned in an article in The Brewers Guardian in 1893 by Horace T. Brown and G. Harris Morris, it was known that adding hops to beer at the end or near the end of fermentation helped dry out, or “freshen” the beer by fermenting some leftover carbohydrates the initial fermentation may have left behind. The article makes a few logical hypotheses on what causes refermentation after Dry Hopping.

Let’s first address what dry hopping is for those who may now be aware. Dry hopping is the addition of dried hops into the fermenter either at the tail end of fermentation or when it has been completed. Hops contain, among other things, acids & oils that are essential to the finished beer’s flavor. The acids require to be boiled to impart their bitterness to balance out the beer’s natural sweetness. The oils, by contrast, contribute much of the hop flavor (piny, herbal, and/or fruity aromas) and are volatile so they benefit from late additions in the boil or after fermentation. Dry hopping contributes to the iconic flavors and aromas we associate with the modern IPA (clear or otherwise).

For Brown and Morris, the question they had wasn’t about flavor, it was about dryness. They knew adding hops at the end of fermentation would induce a secondary fermentation, but they didn’t know why. They hypothesized that within hops there must be either 1) Fermentable sugars, 2) wild yeast or bacteria, or 3) enzymes. After data collection from experimentation, the evidence suggested to Brown and Morris the presence of a diastase, enzymes, in this case, are indeed found in hops.

Quick aside: The term Dry Hop comes from this drying out of the beer (or freshening), not from adding dried hops to the fermented beer, as is most often used as the reason for the term. However, the modern-day use of the term renders both explanations acceptable.

What does this all mean? Put on your beer goggles, er, I mean, put your glasses on and grab an IPA, because this is going to get frothy and nerdy. Let’s talk about some beer science!

The Nerdy Talk

With current research, we now are aware of four enzymes found in hops: Alpha (α) Amylase, Bata (β) Amylase, Limit Dextrinase, and Amyloglucosidase. (It must be noted that the direct presence of Amyloglucosidase hasn’t been detected, but the activity is similar to its end product.) Some of these are found in malted barley, as well. Enzymes by themselves do not ferment beer. That’s the yeast’s job. What the enzymes do, in this case, is break down complex carbohydrates into simple sugars.

In brewing, enzymes are proteins that catalyze to accelerate a biological chemical reaction.
Enzymes are found naturally in malted barley and are heat-activated during the mash (steeped in hot water). Of the many enzymes found in malted barley, α-Amylase, and β-Amylase are the ones that brewers rely on to extract carbohydrates. This is done by the enzymes breaking down complex carbohydrates, or starches, into simpler sugars. Starch conversion happens around 131°F to about 162°F, with α-Amylase most active between about 154 – 162°F with some activity noticed as low as 149°F, while β-Amylase is most active around 140 - 149°F. Limit Dextrinase, an enzyme found in raw barley, but is almost completely denatured by the malting process, and Amyloglucosidase, the enzyme used in Brut IPA’s, do the same but more methodically. Both have been known to be active to around 140°F and have shown signs of movement at much lower temperatures. It should be noted that enzyme activity seen at very low temperatures is minimal, and very little data is out there, but the evidence is there nonetheless. The pH of the mash plays a part in the big picture with the optimum for the enzymes being between about 4 and 5. As luck would have it, that’s the pH of a typical IPA.

Long-chain carbohydrates from malted barley are made up of Glucose (a monosaccharide when isolated by itself) molecules linked together by various linkages. Two linked Glucose molecules form the disaccharide Maltose. The trisaccharide Maltotriose has three Glucose molecules. Longer chains of glucose form the polysaccharide called Amylose (image above*). These are all linked together by an α(1-4) bond.

Amylopectin (image above*) contains multiple branches of Amylose chains bonded by an α(1-6) linkage that flare out to create a large complex carbohydrate. With that in mind, α-Amylase catalyzes the α(1-4) bonds seemingly at random to release Maltose while β-Amylase is more methodical at snipping away at the same type of linkages releasing even more Maltose. As proficient as they are, α and β-Amylase, still can’t break down the complex carbohydrates completely and they leave behind some Dextrins, or unfermentable sugars, particularly those with an α(1-6) linkage. Limit Dextrinase and Amyloglucosidase can snap the α(1-6) bonds.

Is the issue becoming a bit more apparent now?

The Creep

If a packaged beer that has been highly dry-hopped and those hops contained large amounts of diastase, we could have a major problem. A beer stored cold could still show some Hop Creep by the enzymatic activity producing some extra sugars. It won’t ferment out since any yeast that may be present is inactive and will remain in the finished beer. There could be some refermentation happening in the can or bottle if it is not stored cold and there is some yeast present. Any residual sugars could be broken down and the remaining yeast could begin to ferment it. This would be nice if it was meant to be a bottle-conditioned beer. If it wasn’t, however, there could be additional ethanol production that might knock the beer out of compliance.

Should any refermentation occur in the packed product, an increase in CO2 levels will be noticeable because the gas can not escape and will be reabsorbed into the beer. It could create some geysers when opened for a cool show and a bit of a mess if CO2 levels reach excessive amounts. It was thought that Hop Creep was responsible for some beer grenades, but the wild yeast Saccharomyces Cerevisiae var. Diastaticus is the more likely culprit. That's not to say that Hop Creep alone can't cause some exploding cans and bottles. Also, fermentation by-products end up in the packaged product that will be impossible to get out of the beer. In particular...

Diacetyl = Butter. Movie Theater Popcorn in beer? No Thanks.
Photo by Jessica Rice McNew of Beer and Baking

...Diacetyl, the dreaded D-word in brewing. This compound causes beer off-flavors best described as butter, movie theater popcorn, or butterscotch candy. Diacetyl is produced by yeast during the initial stages of fermentation. While the yeast cell creates the amino acid Valine, this part of its metabolism cycle produces the compound α-Acetolactate along this pathway. A non-enzymatic oxidative decarboxylation of α-Acetolactate outside the yeast cell converts it to 2,3-Butanedione, the compound we know as Diacetyl. As fermentation wraps up, most of the Diacetyl is reabsorbed into the yeast cell. Through some more enzymatic activity, Diacetyl is converted to 2,3-Butanediol, which has a much higher threshold for us humans so we can't taste it. Brewers refer to this as the “Diacetyl Rest” and the reduction is done in the fermenter, usually by letting the temperature rise slightly.

This poses a predicament when an IPA leaves the brewery without any Diacetyl notes and reputable reviewers or customers keep insisting the packed product tasted like butter. Once any Hop Creep happens and there is any viable yeast left in the beer, the yeast will consume the sugars but will not be active enough and/or warm enough for a proper Diacetyl Rest. The once great-tasting IPA is now a butter bomb.

Acetaldehyde will also be produced along. If the yeast is healthy, fermentation will run its course as best it can creating Ethanol from Acetaldehyde. Although it may not be a big jump, it may be enough to place a beer out of spec.

The Future

Dry Hop Creep isn’t a universal problem, however. Recent evidence suggests it may be dependent on many factors. Research shows that hop varietals differ in diastatic power. For example, the preliminary findings indicate Citra and Noble Hops may have very little enzymatic power present while Cascade and Centennial have shown a noticeable amount. A cultivar is not the only factor to consider; year, yield, farm location (terroir), and harvesting process may also be a factor.

It turns out one of the most interesting areas for future study could be the drying process after hops are cultivated. A common practice is to have hops dried from 80%(+/-) moisture down to around 8 to 10% moisture and pelletized at a much lower temperature as opposed to the higher heat in years past. The temperature for drying high alpha acid fresh wet hops off the bine is anywhere from 130°F to 140°F, with some farms as high as 145°F.

The Hop Quality Group conducted research and found that lower-temperature kilning preserved delicate thiols and oils. Aroma hops, those typically used in Dry Hopping, were already dried at lower temperatures. Today, it is getting down to only about 100°F or even lower. It is thought lower temperature drying improves the aromatic properties of the hops.

This, unwillingly, may have left much of the enzymes intact since the heat does not reach high enough to denature them. More research needs to be done on this aspect, but the correlation between when this process in hop processing and Hop Creep's jump-scare into the modern-day beer scene can't be ignored.

Fresh Hops on a Bine

Playing "Creep" Away

It’s not all doom and gloom. There are plenty of ways to avoid any possible Hop Creep in one's brewery. Aside from the obvious solution of adding less or no Dry Hop to your IPA (not going to happen!), here are a few things to consider along with their possible drawbacks.

1) Sterile Filter, Centrifuge, and/or Coarse Filter

A good sterile filter or centrifuge removes any possible refermentation that could cause access carbonation and/or Diacetyl by removing the yeast, but it will not prevent any added breakdown of sugars by the enzymes that could end up adding a sweeter taste as time passes. A coarse filter can remove any vegetal matter that contains the enzymes to prevent any further breakdown of sugars.

2) Pasteurise the Beer Before Packaging

This may be an off-putting option for many brewers, and not just because of the added expense of new equipment. Although pasteurizing will kill off any yeast present and denature the enzymes, the high heat will alter the intended flavor of a highly hopped beer.

3) Dry Hop at the Tail End of Fermentation

By Dry Hopping when primary fermentation is close to wrapping up or during the Diacetyl Rest, any added enzymatic activity can occur when there is yeast present to consume any additional fermentable sugar. This may add some extra attenuation (percentage of extract available consumed by yeast) to the end product, but that can be accounted for with some experience. Embrace the creep.

4) Invest in a Dissolved Oxygen Meter

As noted above, α-Acetolactate requires oxygen to decarboxylate into Diacetyl. Although dissolved oxygen is required for proper yeast metabolism in its early stages, any dissolved oxygen left over can aid in the creation of the unwanted buttery compound.

5) ALDC (Alpha Acetolactate Decarboxylase)

ALDC is an added enzyme brewers can use to control Diacetyl production. It catches the α-Acetolactate and turns it directly into Acetoin, bypassing the Diacetyl stage in the cycle. Although this does not deal with any of the hop enzymatic activity, it can be a solution to prevent movie theater popcorn aromas in the finished beer. This only helps with Diacetyl and does not fix Hop Creep.

This subject has become a recent topic of great interest to brewing chemists and brewers of all experience levels. An idea proposed over a century ago is finally, with the great minds applying modern technology and chemistry knowledge, at a point where we can begin to understand what is happening at a molecular level. As more data is collected by research and experimentation, the knowledge surrounding Dry Hop Creep will only continue to increase. For now, there is enough information for the talented IPA producers to embrace “the freshening power of the hop” to keep crafting quality highly hopped beers. Nothing creepy about that.

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

References/Resources:

Brown, H. T., & Morris, G. Ha. (1893). On Certain Functions of Hops Used In The Dry-Hopping Of Beers. The Brewer’s Guardian. (Google Books)

Janicki, J., Kotasthane, W. V., Parker, A., & Walker, T. K. (1941). The Diastatic Activity of Hops, Together With a Note on Maltase in Hops. Institute of Brewing Research Scheme. (Online Library)

Hieronymus, S. (2012). For the Love of Hops: The Practical Guide to Aroma, Bitterness and the Culture of Hops. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Kirkendall, J. A., Mitchell, C. A., & Chadwick, L. R. (2018). The Freshening Power of Centennial Hops. Journal of the American Society of Brewing Chemists, 76(3)

Kirkpatrick, K., & Shellhammer, T. (2018). A Cultivar-Based Screening of Hops for Dextrin Degrading Enzymatic Potential. Journal of the American Society of Brewing Chemists. 76(4)

Kirkpatrick, K., & Shellhammer, T. (2018). Evidence of Dextrin Hydrolyzing Enzymes in Cascade Hops (Humulus Lupulus). Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry, 66

Viva. (Accessed 2020). 10 Difference Between Amylose And Amylopectin (With Pictures & Structure). Viva Differences. (*Image Source).

https://vivadifferences.com/difference-between-amylose-and-amylopectin/

Hop Creep Technical Brief 

https://cdn.brewersassociation.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Hop-Creep-%E2%80%93-Technical-Brief.pdf

Shellhammer, T. (2019). Hop Creep Derived Enzymes and Hop Creep. Master Brewers Association of the Americas - Presentation Slides.
https://www.mbaa.com/meetings/districtpresentations/DistrictPresentations/SHELLHAMMER,%20Hop-derived%20enzymes%20and%20hop%20creep.pdf

Hieronymus, S. (2020).Brewing with Hops: Don’t Be Creeped Out. Craft Beer and Brewing.

https://beerandbrewing.com/brewing-with-hops-dont-be-creeped-out/

Henderson, S. (2018). How “Dry Hop Creep” Causes Diacetyl In Beer and How Brewers Can Minimise The Risk. Rockstar Brewer

https://rockstarbrewer.com/how-dry-hop-creep-causes-diacetyl-in-beer-and-how-brewers-can-minimise-the-risk/#:~:text=%E2%80%9CDry%20Hop%20Creep%E2%80%9D%20is%20a,hopped%20can%20occur%20in%20package.&text=That%20hops%20contain%20a%20%E2%80%9Cdiastase,fermentable%20sugars%20into%20fermentable%20sugars.

Kirkpatrick, K. (2019). An Attempt at Understanding Hop Enzymes and Their Action on Dry-Hopped Beers, Q&A PDF. American Society of Brewing Chemists.

https://www.asbcnet.org/lab/webinars/webinars/Documents/20190418_QandA_HopEnzymesWebinar.pdf

White Labs, (Accessed 2020). Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Var. Diastaticus.
https://www.whitelabs.com/diastaticus

Rockstar Brewer Youtube Channel. (2019). How Dry Hop Creep Causes Diacetyl in Beer Plus 7 Ways You Can Manage it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVFPnD5saoE

Master Brewers Podcast - Youtube Channel. (2018). 098: Dry Hop Creep
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNcrJexo1pI&t=22s

Master Brewers Podcast - Youtube Channel. (2019). 127: Dry Hop Creep Continued - Does Variety Matter? (Live Episode).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G3xWyM1nGb8&t=1372s

University of Oklahoma - Janux Youtube Channel. (2014). Chemistry of Beer Playlist.
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLTve54sz-eh-I4N1VmmskFrW9CS65iUiM

Photos by me unless noted otherwise.

Stay at Home(Brew) Off-flavor: DMS

Stay at Home(Brew)
Off-flavor: DMS

During these times where we are at home for an extended period, homebrewing is seeing an uptick. Whether it be former homebrewers picking up the hobby once more, the avid upping home production, or those taking up the hobby for the first time it can be very rewarding. When homebrewing, one must take care to watch out for common off-flavors that could show up on your finished beer that could put and asterisk on your hard work. Let’s talk about DMS.

Dimethyl Sulfide, or better known by the acronym DMS, is a compound characterized by its distinctive creamed corn or cooked vegetable aroma and flavor. In some extreme cases, it may be reminiscent to rotten vegetables or dead shellfish. Very unappealing in those large quantities.

DMS isn’t always an off-flavor, though. In certain beer styles, a slight note of DMS is acceptable, if not welcomed, and sometimes expected to be there. The American lager family and Cream Ale are great examples of that. Other examples include Kölsch, Helles, German Pils, and other styles may also have a slight hint of DMS as well as other similar styles that may fit the bill.

With that said, it is not a required flavor and not all examples have it. It’s not a flaw if there’s a slight corny note in the background of these styles, although it is not necessarily essential. However, a large presence of DMS is always a flaw.

The origin of Dimethyl Sulfide is found in the grain used to make beer, barley. A compound known as S-Methyl-Methionine (SMM), an amino acid formed in barley during the germination stage of malting is the precursor to DMS. Once germination is completed and the barley begins to sprout, it is then heated, or kilned, to remove moisture. From there it can be kilned further to create a verity of malts. The lightest of kilned malts are only heated for a short while at about 170*F. Not enough heat or time to degrade much of the SMM.

The SMM is released into the wort during the mash but is not converted into DMS until it gets into the boil kettle. SMM is thermally liable and, as it turns out, boiling temperatures are enough to convert it into something else. And that something else is -you guessed it- DMS.

Homebrewers beware: During production, the steam created during wort boil caries a ton of DMS. You may experience a large amount of DMS if they cover their kettle to speed up the boil or to make it more vigorous. All the steam condensates on the lid and drips concentrated basically liquid DMS back down into their boiling wort. A long 90-minute boil is highly recommended. Leave your kettle uncovered!

Commercially, this is an important reason why fans and flues are used to carry the steam away into the atmosphere and not allowing it to condense back into the kettle. A broken or improperly working fan or flue causes the same effect as a covered homebrew kettle.

There’s another compound called Dimethyl Sulfoxide (DMSO) that is created when DMS is oxidized usually in the kettle. DMSO is not as volatile as DMS and is not heat sensitive, therefore, it would remain dissolved in the wort even after boiling. DMSO is then reduced into DMS in the fermenter by yeast during fermentation. There have been instances where this can kick-started during dry-hoping, so watch the oxygen exposure.

Since top-fermenting (ale) yeast usually produce a vigorous fermentation, the production of Carbon Dioxide (Co2) literally scrub away some of the DMS compounds out of the fermenter via the blow-off valve or airlock. On the other hand, bottom-fermenting (lager) yeast work much slower. More of the DMS created from DMSO during fermentation can remain in the beer because the Co2 production is not as energetic. This is yet another reason why pale lagers tend to have elevated levels of DMS compared to other styles.

The use of six row barley also tends to increase the production of DMS as well as some bacterial infections if sanitation becomes an issue. The addition of adjuncts such as flaked maize or corn sugar may enhance or confuse the perception of DMS in a finished beer. So that’s something else to keep in mind.

Support local homebrew shops:

Windsor Homebrew Supply Co.

743 Baker Street, Suite D, Costa Mesa

1045 N Armando, Suite E, Anaheim

Phantom Ales Pub & Home Brew Shop

1211 N Las Brisas St., Anaheim

O'Shea Brewing Co.

28142 Camino Capistrano #107, Laguna Niguel

Brewers Hardware (for large production)

5692 Buckingham Drive Huntington Beach

Cheers and happy homebrewing!

-Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

The "D" Word: Diacetyl

Remember when we were young and we were taught never to say bad words? I apologize in advance for all the obscene language I'm about to say.

In the beer world, there's no greater profanity than saying the "D" word. And even worse is putting that "D" in your mouth. (Get your mind out of the gutter! ...That's not what I meant!)

I am referring to Diacetyl.

Pronunciation aside (die-ASS-a-teel, DIE-a-see-till, or die-assa-TEEL), this compound causes a movie popcorn, almost rancid butter-like flavor and aroma in beer. Although Diacetyl is produced by all yeast strains during normal metabolism, its quantities are greatly affected by many factors. The main factor is the amino acid Valine and how much of it is present in the wort. Regardless of this, Diacetyl is always produced at some rate during the first few days of fermentation.

*Warning! Chemistry up-ahead!*

2, 3-Butanedione (AKA: Diacetyl)

During the initial stages of fermentation, the yeast cell creates Valine as part of its metabolism cycle. Along this pathway to create the amino acid, the compound α(Alpha)-Acetolactate is also produced. A non-enzymatic oxidative decarboxylation of α-Acetolactate (I know, right?) occurs outside the yeast cell and is converted to 2,3-Butanedione, the compound we know as "Diacetyl."

The presence of Valine is directly related to the amount of Diacetyl produced because the enzyme that produces α-Acetolactate is deactivated when the wort contains high quantities of Valine. We know Valine is an amino acid and amino acids are the building-blocks of proteins. In turn, we can assume the high concentration of proteins in wort should significantly reduce the amount of Diacetyl produced. High protein levels could cause some other problems in the finished beer, so large protein quantities is not a viable solution to control Diacetyl.

Another compound called 2,3-Pentanedione is created via an separate pathway. This compound is also sent outside the yeast cell and will end up in the finished beer if not properly reduced. 2,3-Pentanedione is believed to have similar buttery flavor and aroma properties (sometimes described as honey-like), however this compound is not produced in very high quantities as 2,3-Butanedione is.

For you chemist out there, these two compounds are Vicinal Diketones. "In chemistry-speak, 'vicinal' essentially means 'adjacent', and 'diketone' means that there are two ketone functional groups (a ketone is an oxygen double-bonded to a carbon in the middle of a carbon chain)." (Beer Sensory Science)

As fermentation wraps up, most of the previously produced 2,3-Butanedione and 2,3-Pentanedione is reabsorbed by the yeast into its cell. Through more enzymatic activity, they are converted into 2,3-Butanediol and 2,3-Pentanediol, which have a much higher threshold for us humans. In other words, Diacetyl is turned into something we can't taste.

For you brewers out there, this is typically referred to as a "Diacetyl Rest." Brewers usually aid the reabsorption of these compounds by raising the temperature during the last day or two of fermentation. This rise in temperature excites the yeast and can more easily and vigorously convert Diacetyl into the non-flavored compound.

If Diacetyl is detected in your beer, it is usually an indicator of rushed production or improper fermentation practices.

Another common contributor to Diacetyl is a bacterial infection. The most likely culprits are the little bugs called Pediococcus and/or Lactobacillus. Both of these lovely bacteria create lactic acid and can produce Diacetyl as part of their fermentation products. While they may be a welcome addition to some wild ales and artisanal sour beers, it is quite unpleasant when found in dirty draft lines that haven't been maintained or cleaned sufficiently. Infections can also occur in many stages of the fermentation process, but dirty draft lines seem to be the biggest contributor for Diacetyl via bugs.

One more discovery is Diacetyl production during beer aging. Although the levels of Diacetyl in aged beer may be undetectable because of low levels or hidden behind the veil of oxidation compounds, Diacetyl could be nonetheless present.

In very small quantities, Diacetyl can be a contributing factor to the overall flavor and aroma profile of certain styles. Most English and Irish beers tend to have some detectable levels of Diacetyl adding a pleasant buttery undertone. An interesting fact is Diacetyl is one of the differentiating characteristics between a German Pilsner and a Czech Pilsner (Czech Pilsners are expected/accepted to have low levels of Diacetyl). However, in high quantities this compound can impart a butterscotch, movie popcorn, or a rancid butter flavor and aroma.

Another interesting fact to point out is while a great number of beer drinkers might be able to detect Diacetyl with ease, there are an equal amount of us that are completely blind to it. On that same note, some are very sensitive to Diacetyl while others will only find it detectable in extremely high quantities. Should you fall under any of these parameters, it is perfectly normal since it is simply genetics.

I think that's enough foul language for one lesson. I need to go wash my mouth out with some beer... Er, soap. And put a coin in the tip jar... Er, swear jar.



Class dismissed,

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Certified Cicerone®




Photo Credits:
A big thank you to BeerAndBaking's Jessica Rice McNew for her amazing photography in this article!!

Resources:
-Beer Sensory Science
-Janux Chemistry of Beer Course Materials
-White Labs
-Oxford Companion to Beer

*Beer Education - Ale vs. Lager*

Ale and lager. Which of the two is better? Before we can even begin to think about how to answer this question, we must first have a clear understanding on the differences between ales and lagers. The answer is not as clear-cut and dry as one would think.

Perhaps the question we should ask is: What is an ale and what is a lager?

The short answer is... nothing! Well, that is if we consider only the end product, which is still beer. But if we dissect this, there are only a few differences. The main few are yeast species, fermentation temperature, aging temperature & duration, and fruit character.

Yeast

This is the only real physical difference between ales and lagers. There are two types of yeast that brewers choose from. Ale yeast (also known as "top-fermenting" yeast) is called Saccharomyces Cerevisiae. This species of yeast has many different strains. Lager yeast (also known as "bottom-fermenting" yeast) is called Saccharomyces Pastorianus. As with ale yeast, this species also has many different strains. They both act the same in terms of basic fermentation metabolism and end product. Reasoning for distinguishing them as bottom or top-fermenting seems to correlate with the amount of kräusen found at the top of the fermenter.

FYI: Kräusen is the fluffy stuff that develops at the top of the fermenter that is made up of yeast and proteins and other materials frothed up as a result of yeast metabolism.

Fermentation Temperature

In general, ale yeast is usually slated to ferment at higher temperatures (65°F to 70°F, on average with some strains reaching even higher) and thus results and a vigorous, relatively quick fermentation and development of a large cap of kräusen. Lager yeast typically ferment at cooler temperatures (48°F to 58°F, on average). Because of this cooler temperature, fermentation is less violent, takes much longer, and there is less kräusen.

Aging Temperature & Duration

Ales are generally not aged for very long and are usually cold crashed (significant drop in temperature to about +/-40°F) after fermentation to allow the yeast and proteins to drop out. Dry-hopping (adding hops into the fermenter after fermentation is complete) is done at this time. Typically, an average ale is ready in as little as two to four weeks.

Lagers ferment at cooler temperatures and therefore take longer to complete. Fermentation can last a few weeks and up to a couple months in some cases. Once fermentation has finished, lagering can start. The word "lager" is the verb "to store" or put away in German. Combined with cool fermentation, lagering at about 33°F helps to further clarify the beer and allows the flavors to round out. Lagers can take many months to complete, from brew-day to packaging. Depending on the beer, lagering alone can last upwards to 6 months to a year, although 3 months is average.

Fruit Character

The aforementioned items are production-based distinctions. All of those aspects result in the one piece of evidence we can detect in both flavor and aroma: Fruit character. Ale yeast produce many fruity esters due to the quick fermentation, generally higher temperatures, and short aging. This is acceptable and desirable. Lagers on the other hand, are clean and show no fruit character. The slow fermentation caused by low temperature and long lagering times result in a malt and hops focused beer.

There will be more explanation further below, but the same can be true with beers fermented cold with ale yeast strains, which will produce very little esters. Interestingly enough, lager strains used to ferment beers at ale temperatures will indeed produce more fruit esters than they would usually do if fermented cold.

Bonus: Myths About Ales and Lagers

"Lagers have lower alcohol than ales." ...FALSE!

Being an ale does not necessarily indicate a higher ABV. True, the high-alcohol beers are usually an ale of some kind, there are also lagers available that can reach ABV's above 10%. Eisbock is one example.

"Ales are dark." ...FALSE!

Cream Ales and American Blonde Ales are quite pale in color.

"Lagers are always light in color." ...FALSE!

Doppelbock, Dunkle, American Dark Lager, and Baltic Porter are examples of lager beers that are dark brown to almost black in color.

"Lagers have more carbonation." ...FALSE!

Have you ever popped opened a bottle of Duvel? That's a Belgian Golden Strong Ale. Try to pour it without a producing a foam head at least 3 fingers high. Just try it.

Curveballs

This is probably the most important part of this article. We have hybrid beers out there to throw us a off-course and shows off how far we have come in our understanding of what used to be a clear line between ale and lager. These hybrid beers are a blend of ale and lager, usually using lager yeasts fermented at the lower end of ale temperatures and/or often involve lagering for a period of time regardless of yeast strain or species. Examples of these hybrids include Cream Ale, California Common, Kölsch, and Altbier.

California Common and  Cream Ale use an adapted lager strain to ferment at the low-end of ale temperatures (too high for some lager strains) and results in clean lager characteristics. This is historically true for Cream Ale, but is currently not that common. Kölsch and Altbier are examples of an ale yeast strains fermenting at the high-end of lager temperatures (too low for some ale stains) used to produce lager characteristics. They also go through a period of cold conditioning although the duration varies by style. Those are some examples of styles which create clean, lager-like beers using non-traditional methods.

A word on lagering: It is not uncommon for a beer fermented with ale yeast to undergo a cold-conditioning phase or for a "bottom-fermented" beer to be aged at room temperature. The resulting beer may differ from the traditional expectations, but could still be enjoyable if done correctly.

Other cuveballs are beers fermented with other organisms and/or wild yeasts. These organisms and wild yeasts (such as wild Saccharomyces, Brettanomyces, Lactobacillus, Pediococcus, and Acetobacter) all have their own properties in regards to optimum fermentation temperatures. However, most of the beers we see inoculated with any type of "bug" or "wild" yeasts/organisms are typically kept at room temperature (68°-72°F) or higher. So, by the explanation above, these wild and sour beers are widely accepted as ales.

And there you have it!

To recap, ale yeast (Saccharomyces Cerevisiae) and lager yeast (Saccharomyces Pastorianus) is the only physical difference between them. The flavor differences between lagers and ales are small, but noticeable. Lagers are clean, little no no yeast character with and no fruity esters, fermented a cool temperatures, and are submitted to extended lagering. Ales tend to have fruit character, fermented at higher temperatures, and not aged as long by comparison. There are exceptions with hybrid's using lager strains at low ale temperatures or ale strains at high lager temperatures.

Hope you learned a thing or two. Thanks for reading!

Cheers,

Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Certified Cicerone®

Vocabulary Lesson – Dimethyl Sulfide (DMS)

Dimethyl Sulfide, more well-known by its initials (DMS), is a compound causing flavors and aromas considered an unacceptable in most beer style. DMS causes a creamed corn or cooked vegetables flavor and aroma when found in beer at detectable levels. When present at high concentrations, DMS can cause more of a rotten vegetable aroma and taste. Although it is considered an off-flavor in most styles, DMS is actually a desirable trait and/or acceptable in small quantities (complementary and adding to complexity) in most pale lagers, such as a German Pils and Munich Helles, and some light-colored ales, like Cream Ale.

The most common way to form DMS is in the brew kettle. The precursor of DMS is the compound S-Methyl-Methionine (SMM), an amino acid formed in barley during the germination stage of malting. Once the germination (tricking barley into sprouting) is complete, the malt is then kilned (heated) to remove moisture then kilned even further depending on the type of malt that is being created. SMM is a thermally liable compound, which means that it reacts at a certain temperature and creates something else. Lightly kilned malts, such as Pilsner Malt, are not subjected to excessive heat for large periods of time and retain much of the SMM found within. Mashing (steeping malt in hot water) is usually done at a temperature that does not create DMS. However, it will release SMM into the wort (sweet liquid created in the mash) and is carried over into the kettle. When SMM is in the kettle and the wort is boiling, it create DMS.

Along with SMM, there is another compound is responsible for DMS. Dimethyl Sulfoxide (DMSO) is created when DMS gets oxidized and this can happen either in the kettle or already be present in the malt. DMSO is not as volatile as DMS and is not heat sensitive, therefore, it would remain dissolved in the wort even after boiling. DMSO is then reduced into DMS in the fermenter by yeast during fermentation. Since top-fermenting (ale) yeast tends preform more vigorous fermentations, the production of Carbon Dioxide (Co2) can literally scrubs away some of the DMS compounds out of the fermenter via the blow-off valve. Conversely, bottom-fermenting (lager) yeasts preform much slower so more of the DMS created from DMSO during fermentation can remain in the beer because the Co2 production is not as energetic. This is yet another reason why pale lagers tend to have higher levels of DMS compared to other styles.

DMS is quite volatile and generally escapes the brew kettle as steam with no issue. Homebrewers will encounter this as a problem if they cover the pot of boiling wort or before it has cooled down. The condensation collected on the cover is full of DMS and simply falls back into the wort. Other major contributors are a the use of high-protein malt such as those made from 6-row barley, lack of a vigorous boil, not cooling down the wort quickly enough, or bacterial infections from bacteria such as Enterobacter.

Thanks for reading. I hope you enjoyed it and learned a thing or two. Class dismissed!

Cheers,

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Certified Cicerone®


References:

https://beersensoryscience.wordpress.com/tag/dms/
"Beer: Quality, Safety and Nutritional Aspects" by by Paul S Hughes (Author), E Denise Baxter
"Malts and Malting" by D.E. Briggs

"What the Hell(es)?!"

Weihenstephaner Original served at
The Bräustüberl’s ("Brewery Parlour") Beer Garden

Visit any traditional "bierstube" (beer hall) in Munich and you'll be treated to the testament of Bavarian brewing tradition. Centuries of brewing expertise, science, and beer history come together to bring us this tantalizing style: the Munich Helles.

"Helles" in German means "bright" or "light." Similar to a number of beer styles in Germany, a Munich Helles is also named after its appearance.

To understand how this beer came into fruition, a bit of brewing history should be looked at. 

In 1833, brewers Gabriel Sedlmayr of the Spaten Brewery and Anton Dreher of the Dreher Brewery in Vienna made a research trip to England. Their goal was to witness and study a revolutionary hot air kiln, which kilned green malt to a relatively pale consistency. They might have had a hunch this would forever changed malt production. 

Armed with their new found knowledge, Sedlmayr and Dreher went to work at their respected breweries. Sedlmayr released an amber lager during the 1841 Oktoberfest known simply as a Märzen made with his pale grain dubbed Munich malt. Likewise, a few months later Dreher released an even paler amber lager made with his own pale grain, dubbed Vienna malt. These two beers were the precursors to what we know as the Oktoberfest/Märzen and Vienna Lagers. 

Then, the world would change forever...

On November 11th, 1842, a Bavarian brewer, Josef Groll, released his pale golden lager to the unsuspecting public of Pilsen, Bohemia (modern-day Czech). It did not take long for this beer to dominate the world. Virtually all other breweries in the world, including those in Germany, had to fallow with their own version of this crowed-pleasing favorite.

On March 21st, 1894, the Spaten brewery (now operated by Sedlmayr's three sons) sent a test-cask of their creation to the port city of Hamburg. Over a short time, this golden brew gained more and more footing on the testing grounds. Spaten decided it was time to release their creation to the citizens of Munich. The Munich Helles was released on its home turf on June 20th, 1895 and it has never lost traction.

To this day, Helles remains one of the most consumed styles in Bavaria. Even most of the beer consumed during Oktoberfest is either Helles or a modified, slightly stronger version (slowly, but surely replacing the very beer that bares the festival's name: the traditional amber colored Oktoberfest). 

Pale gold in color, brilliant clarity with a creamy white head. Pilsner malt dominates the aroma with notes of grain-like sweetness. Balanced flavor where malt and hops do not overpower each other, rather keep one another in perfect harmony, with slightly sweet finished and just enough balanced bitterness. Medium-bodied brew that is sure to keep your mouth watering for another sip.

Elegant, subtle, and clean are some of the most common -and appropriate- descriptors used to identify a Helles. Usually brewed using only a single type of malt (generally Pilsner malt) and one noble hop verity, creating such a balanced and delicate beer is the crown achievement of Bavarian brewmasters.

Serve in a traditional mug at 40°F and enjoy. Go ahead, have another. At a range of 4.7 to 5.4 ABV, you'll find difficult not to order "noch eins" (one more).

Prost! 

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Certified Cicerone®

Beer Education: IBU – The “Bitter” Truth

The IBU Contributor - Hops
Shown Dried and in Whole-Leaf Form

Beer has many values quantified by a numbered scale of some kind. The common ones are: color, ABV, and bitterness. Because bitterness is an important characteristic in most beer styles, it is only natural it has its own term. This value is identified by International Bittering Units, or simply IBU. This term, IBU, is often used in pub conversation and are usually found on the description on the beer on a beer board or packaging. If you are unfamiliar with what an IBU is, continue-on and I will demystify things.

IBU values are good indicators on how bitter a particular beer will be. The short answer is the simplest way of explaining this: On average, the higher the IBU’s a beer has, the higher the perceived bitterness will be on your palate (and vice-versa, the lower the IBU’s, the less bitterness perceived). This is a good rule-of-thumb to go by.

Here are a couple of examples to further explain that concept: a Belgian Wit might have IBU’s of around 12 while an American Pale will proudly boast 40 IBU’s. A German Dunkel could have IBU’s around 20 while an Imperial/Double India Pale Ale could tip the scales at 100+ IBU’s! (FYI, Budweiser has about 5 IBU’s)

What causes bitteness in beer? ...Hops! Without crumbling open a hop cone to study the anatomy, there are two basic components you need to be aware of: the Essential Oils and Alpha Acids (AA). Essential Oils contribute aroma and flavor characteristics and we will tackle that at a later time. The Alpha Acids are what add bitterness. The AA’s are quantified by percentage with the higher percentage meaning higher bittering properties. For instance, the German hop Hallertau will have about 4%AA with a pleasant bittering contribution while the American verity Simcoe will average at around 13%AA.

I won’t bore you with the math behind this, but the concept is straightforward. The AA’s must be boiled in the wort (pre-beer) to add the bitterness properties. Depending on how long the hops are boiled in the kettle, the sugar content of the wort, and the amount of hops used will determine the total IBU’s in the finished beer.

One internal factor contributes to the bitterness (or lake thereof) we actually perceive. Although we can use the IBU’s provided gives us as a good base-point, the beer ingredients can hinder the actual amount of bitterness that comes though. For example, heavily roasted malts will subdue some of the bitterness perceived. Another way bitterness can be subdued depends on how the beer is dispensed. A casked-conditioned or nitor beer will have significantly less bitterness than the same beer served with average volumes of CO2, regardless of having identical IBU’s.

Before I sign off, here are two interesting notes on IBU’s. Humans have a limit to the amount of bitterness we can perceive. It’s still an on-going debate in the scientific community, but the common numbers given out are usually around 80-100 IBU’s before we max out. Another item to ponder about is the limit of IBU’s that can physically be dissolved into a particular beer depending on the sugar content. I still need to research this item further, but it’s an interesting topic. Homebrewer might find this especially appealing.

Well, there you have it. If you did not know what an IBU was before and had a tough time following a conversation or reading a beer description, this should give you some solid ground to stand on. If you don’t like bitter, stay away from high IBU’s. If you do, then seek out the highest IBU beer you can. At the end of the day, it’s as simple as that.

Thanks for reading. I hope you enjoyed it and learned a thing or two.

Until next time!

Cheers,

-Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Certified Cicerone®

Beer Education: The Beers of Flanders - Red and Brown/Oud Bruin

*Source Below*

Pucker up!

No, I’m not asking for a kiss (unless you want to give me one... I might not be opposed to it.). I’m referring to the tart, tangy, and fruity ales from Northern Belgium: Flanders Red Ales and Flanders Browns. Let’s take a trip to this Flemish region of the world.

The northern part of Belgium, known as Flanders, is where these complex ales call home. Flanders Red and Browns were once closely related to Lambics, in terms of linage, as they were spontaneously fermented (allowed to ferment naturally with yeast and bacteria found in the air). Over time, the influence of neighboring countries and brewing technologies swayed the Flemish beers to what they are today.

Just as the blending of old and young beer was commonplace in England around the 17th century, the Flemish brewers did the same with their creations. Where blending beers happened first (England or Belgium) is still up for debate. Eventually, blending in England was phased out but it remains an antiquate part of crafting Flanders Reds and Browns. The blends consist of one brew that has been aged for up to two –plus- years and a young, fresh batch.

Belgium holds no distinction between the two styles. Occasionally, some producers will even identify both styles on the same label! Both brews consist of other micro-organisms to metabolize anything left over from normal brewer’s yeast. This leads to some of the most complex, unique, and exciting beers on the market.

The grains used to produce these beers differ quite a bit. Reds are produced using Vienna and Munich malts as a base with some cara-malts and Special B. Browns conversely use Pils malt as a base with a copius amount of dark cara-malts and some roasted malts for color. Both can employ the use of maize, with the Reds usually incorporating about 20% of it to the grain bill.

The main difference between the two styles boils down to two things: Brettanomyces (Brett for short) and aging method. Brett, a form of yeast that produces a mousy, funky character, is not found in the Oud Bruin variation. Traditional Flanders Reds are aged in giant wood casks, called "foeders," for an extended period of time while the Oud Bruins are aged in steel tanks. Wood is a porous material. This allows for more bacteria to enter the aging Flanders Reds.

On the senses, Flanders Reds and Flanders Browns are similar yet so different. Flanders Browns or Oud Bruins are tart, tangy dark ale with some residual malt flavors and light fruitiness. Perfect examples would be New Belgium’s La Folie (part of their Lips of Faith) or Leifmans Goudenband. Flanders Reds tend to be downright sour, impose a bit a funky character, and even have some tart fruit-like sweetness. Flanders Red Ales are also the most vinous (wine-like) of all beer styles. Prime examples of Flanders Reds include Rodenbach Grand Cru and Verhaeghe’s Duchess de Bourgogne (Duchess is not intensely sour, however).

Pair these beers with shellfish (lobster and Flanders Red is simply magical!), ham dishes or even some duck. Try them with some herb goat cheeses before a meal. Or for dessert, indulge with some chocolate cake and let its sweetness embrace the sourness of the beer for a superb pairing.

Thanks for reading. I hope you enjoyed it and learned a thing or two. Until next time!

Cheers,

-Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Certified Cicerone®




*Picture Source: Brouwerij Verhaeghe website

Beer Education: Kölsch - The Pale Ale of Germany

(Picture source below)

It is no secret that the Germans love their lager beers. Be it a crisp and clean Pilsener, a balanced Helles, a semi-sweet Dunkel, or even a malty and bready Doppelbock, lagers are Germany’s call to fame. But, Lagers weren’t always the norm as it is now in most of the country; ales used to be the standard in beer production. Let’s take a look at Kölsch as it is one of the lesser known surviving examples.

This beer style gets its name from the city it originated from: Köln (Cologne). As a style, Kölsch was not always as we know it today. Before modern refrigeration, northern Germany brewed dark ales that we now refer to as “Alt” (“Old” in German). This is designated to beers produced in the old way or traditional way. In other words, beers fermented using ale yeast (top-fermenting yeast). In the early 1600’s, an ordinance was placed to outlaw bottom-fermenting yeast from being used in Köln and thus ensuring the Alt style would remain intact. In contrast, the state of Bavaria had outlawed summer brewing about 50 years earlier, laying down the groundwork for lager brewing eventually taking over.

In the late 18th century, Napoleon took over the Rheineland for 20 years. During the durration of his occupation, the French tried to bring lager brewing to the land. Thankfully for us, the climate was not suitable for bottom-fermenting yeast (lager yeast) and the beers never gained any traction. The “old” ale survived!

Fast forward to modern times (late 19th century/early 20th century) and we see technological advancements in yeast cultivation, sanitation, and malt production. While the brewers in Düsseldorf decided to perfect the Munich Malt based dark ale we now know as Altbier, Köln implemented the use of newer, paler malts such as Pils. Basically following the same path the British Bitters (Pale Ales to us Americans) took when they evolve from the use of pale malts in various Brown Ales. Although both Altbier and Kölsch are brewed with top-fermenting ale yeast (each style now having its own distinct strain!), both beers are lagered after fermentation to ensure a clean tasting beer.

These beers are served in specific glassware called “Stange” (Stick in German). These Stange only hold about 6oz of the stuff to ensure you finish your beer before it gets to warm. This must keep the bartenders busy in the beer halls.

A Kölsch is brilliantly clear, clean, and pale gold in color resembling the likes of a Munich Helles. High carbonation shows off a frothy, white head. Subtle Pils malt and some fruit character derived from the yeast are usually found, but not overpowering. Light hop character on the nose. The flavor is soft, delicate, and subtle in dryness, flavor and bitterness with an underlying vinous trait. Pair with light salads or soft shellfish for a unique meal. An outstanding and pleasant beer!

Thanks for reading. I hope you enjoyed it. Till next time. 

Prost!!

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Certified Cicerone®




Mor info/resource/picture source:
http://www.germanbeerinstitute.com/K%F6lsch.html