OC Beer Week 2018

Well, it’s over. OC Beer Week has come and gone and my liver couldn’t be happier. (Ha!) 

What a week it was. There were so many events and meet-ups this year it made it very difficult to choose which ones to attend. I had a great time chatting with friends (including brewers, reps, beertenders, etc… You’re all friends to me) anywhere I went. I kicked things off by visiting Asylum and congratulating them on their 1st year anniversary. Had a chat with Bob at Backstreet, I hung out at Smoqued with Left Coast, drank tasty beers with folks from Green Cheek, Good Beer, Gunwhale, and The Bruery at Provisions Market, and payed a visit to some of my locals such as Bottle Logic and Stereo.

The Invitational was so much fun!! Although the OC Brewers Guild might not have been able to get out of the red on this one, the outcome was some short lines, ample amount of space to walk around, plenty of food, and of course, plenty of beer for everyone! The lack thereof are the biggest complaints or some of the most recent beer festivals and I don’t blame those that voice concerns when a festival becomes a test in patience and disappointment. Not at all the case for this year’s Invitational. There are reasons for the intimate attendance number, but that is something I will not get into at this time, especially because, as an attendee, I feel that was the perfect number of fest-goers.

But what about the beer? Oh, yes. There was beer and there was some outstanding stuff. Worth mentioning are: Table Beer by Benchmark Brewing (San Diego), American Craft Lager by Mike Hess Brewing (San Diego), What Gose Round by Boomtown (Los Angeles), and Murk IPA by Pure Project (San Diego). But my favorite beer of the Invitational was Kona Espress by Hoparazzi. What a mix of flavors and balance! Coffee and tartness sounds off-putting, but the contrast works like magic in this beer. Well done!

Tustin Brewing Company’s (TBC) Beer Dinner was my absolute highlight of the week. The food was amazing, the beers are already tasty, and together was nothing short of incredible! Jerrod Larsen, TBC’s Head Brewer, and General Manager/Head Chef Robert Sentina (with Lead Chef Ivan Perez) put together this impressive dinner in a relatively short order. With the wonderful help of TBC’s hard-working bartenders, dedicated wait staff, and talented kitchen crew, Robert and Jerrod showcased their brilliance at the dinner table.

The cheese and salad pairings were my personal favorites. With three cheeses to choose from and two beers to accompany them, the guests were encouraged to explore and experiment with flavor interactions. I preferred the bitterness of Old Town IPA cutting through the rich, mouthcoating triple cream French cheese and providing a sharp contrast to the pungent blue cheese. Old Town also brought out the spice from the peppercorn cheese with its assertive hop bite and lively carbonation.

For the salad, Jerrod surprised us all by bringing out and aged version of his award-winning sour ale, Jon Flanders. What a treat this was! The salad was crisp and refreshing with a nutty element to provide some contrast. Jon Flanders provided some dark fruit while it balanced the acidity of the champagne vinaigrette and pickled onions and provided a pleasing complement to the bitter greens. Spectacular!

It was a fun week and I thoroughly enjoy seeing so many of us beer lovers out supporting our local breweries in our backyard. Here’s to hopping next year will be just as awesome as this year.

Cheers!

-Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Certified Cicerone®

Beer Bubble - Has it Busted?

Considering the recent events regarding San Diego’s Green Flash, the nerves of our beer community have been rattled. The casualties near me in Orange County aren’t particularly numerous, but they are noticeable. Those worthy of note are Alcatraz in 2013 and Valiant in 2017, both in the city of Orange and Evans Brewing Company’s taking over Bayhawk Ales out of Irvine by 2014. There is also the constant fear of when the next buy-out will happen.

Has the beer bubble busted? Is there a bubble at all? Perhaps, but perhaps not. That’s a tough question to ask a community of vocal and brash opinionated individuals. We may have our individual vested interest to answer one way or another. Whether you are in the industry or not, if you are reading this, odds are you love beer as much as I do and appreciate the people associated with it. We know brewery owners, brewers, beertenders, and reps by first names and are some of the best friends to have. We love brewers and their passion, there’s no question about that. Especially those that are approachable and are willing to at least shake your hand. In my eyes, they are the real celebrities of this industry. It’s understandable to fear that fast-approaching sharp object if we feel we’re part of the bubble.

So, the bubble has popped or it is at least approaching the needle, right? It depends how you look at it and who you ask (as is the case with almost any subject). I believe it's a complicated recipe of over-saturation, the rapid expansion of individual breweries, a dash of not enough education/quality control, boiling with vocal consumers, and with a sprinkle of poor business decisions.

Some breweries start off small and grow at a faster than the expansion of the universe. Ill-advised decisions might be the culprit in these cases. Others begin out of the gate with large, multi-million-dollar facilities yet don't produce a quality product to put their money where their beer is. Yet, they release it anyway. There is only so much shelf space, even at specialty bottle shops. The “big guys” already take so much space and bigger, independent breweries are doing the same exact thing. We’ve all know what happens when there is too much of a good thing. In other cases, breweries start off strong, large or small, only to have their beers slowly decline in quality and can’t get out of their funk (sometimes, literally!). This is also where some not-so-wise business decisions may take place.

All too often breweries release products with off-flavors and the average consumers have no idea they are consuming a flawed beer. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been disappointed by faulty beers with various defects. These include, but not limited to: Diacetyl (Buttery flavors, incomplete fermentation), Acetaldehyde (green apple flavor, incomplete fermentation),high amounts of Isoamyl Acetate (banana flavors, a sign of elevated fermentation temperatures),a variety of Phenols, and even some truly nasty stuff like Butyric Acid (a vomit-like aroma thought to be caused by a Clostridium bacterium infection in kettle sours or infections by anaerobic bacteria like Pediococcus), and Mercaptan/Autolysis (caused by ruptured yeast cells). This is not exclusive to the new ventures, either. I’ve experienced this at some well-established breweries, too. The problem lies when the tasting room staff, owner, and/or the brewer does not realize there’s an issue with the beer. Granted, most of the time the beer is pulled off and the problem is corrected at breweries where there is at least an understanding of brewing science (or they are actively learning about it, which is fine). In many of these instances, it is a simple case of inexperience and unawareness. Most brewers will embrace beer education and experience over time will improve their art skill.

We do indeed have amazing breweries with fantastic beers and worthy of their popularity and expansion. Most of these breweries have a few things in common: Knowledge in brewing science (even if it’s only applied science), good marketing, and provide tasty beer. Even breweries, and those labeled as a “blendery,” skillfully inoculate ales with bacteria and wild yeasts (sometimes experimenting with spontaneous fermentation) to produce unique products. We applauded their contributions to this amazing industry.

How I would like to see this playing out is with more inclusion of beer education, specifically with quality control. Both consumer and producer benefit from gaining knowledge, but the burden falls on the producer. Unfortunately, the consumer will choose what to buy with the information given to them and to meet their individual taste. However, if a brewery makes an effort to release quality beers the consumer will find even more value in what they are drinking and is more likely to be a repeat customer. On the flip-side, a knowledgeable consumer can identify flaws, praise exemplary samples of a style and appreciate esoteric offerings. I believe it’s a two-way street and a little goes a long way. If you are an experienced taster (and even those that aren’t), most have no issue pointing out mistakes or dislikes. But please don’t be afraid to put the snobbery aside to congratulate a brewer on a job well done on that Helles or a beertender on handing you the perfect pour of a Pale. This is part of the two-way street.

I see the beer industry as an entity that is evolving to meet market needs. Unfortunately, the market is so saturated that it has become more of a fluid than a bubble. You, the consumers, not only have way too many choices, but the quality is not always consistent or apparent. Yes, this is a problem with any industry, however here is where you come in. As mentioned above, you have the power to respectfully demand quality just as much as you tend to be vocal and opinionated about Hazy IPA’s and Pastry Stouts. If the brewery does not know their product is flawed or lacking flavor, they will keep producing it as is. The brewers will listen, trust me. At least the ones that take pride in making a quality product and respect the opinions of their patrons will listen (even if it’s only to take it into consideration). Respect is also a two-way street. Couple that with some solid business plans, steady and appropriate growth, and you have a good recipe for a hearty beer industry.

I don’t believe there’s a bubble. Consolidation, mergers, buy-outs, and the dreadful closing are part of this crazy game we call business. We are too strong of a culture to let mass-market consolidation happen again anytime soon. I believe that the industry is fine so long as we (the consumers): drink local, support local, respect your brewers, and support beer education (for consumer and producer alike!). And the brewers/owners/beertenders/reps: make good decisions, produce quality, and love what you do as much as we love you!

But, that is my opinion based on personal observation. What’s your take on this? Go to your local brewery and talk it over with your buds over some suds.

Cheers!!

-Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Certified Cicerone®

Holy Firkin Chit... It’s a Firkfest!!

Photo by Jessica Rice McNew from Beer and Baking

(Click here to check out last year’s collaboration with Jessica from Beer and Baking)

Held at the Packing House in Anaheim (my hometown!!), this was the 4th year Greg Nagel had coordinated Firkfest. I’ll be the first to admit, year one was filled with plot-holes and pitfalls. However, the very next year the event improved 100% and each year has been better than the last. This year was no exception. What is Firkfest? The best way to describe this event is bringing together the tradition of cask-conditioned Real Ale from the UK and the creativity of the craft beer industry (follow the link above for more information about Real Ale in England). This year, the addition of a “Tiki” theme added an extra layer of fun. Lots of sunshine, amazing beers, and hundreds of beer lovers in one place. If you have never been to this event, you are missing out!

Greetings fellow beer lovers!

Now it’s time for my completely meaningless and intangible awards for this year’s Firkfest. Although there were some flops to my taste, it was tough to choose some stand-outs among so many awesome casks. Here are my winners...

Best Beer Name Award: Dole Hole

For the second year in a row, the honor goes to Tustin Brewing Company and their Dole Hole. Stop chuckling, that's not what I meant! This is a take on their Old Town IPA made with Pineapple. Bitter and tropical, the beer also fit the theme of the festival. This was just one of the pineapple beers available at the event.

Most Unique Cask Award: Kalua Porker

Riip Beer Company's Kalua Porker. Holy chit! This was impressive. Porters are a great beer paring for unique preparations of pork. This cask creation by Head Brewer Trevor Walls (formally of Pizza Port) takes that concept one step further… put the damn pork in the beer! Sweetness of Kalua, roast and acrid porter, and finished with umami and savory pork flavors. It was actually quite tasty!

Most Stylistically Correct Award: The King's Taxes - 60 Shilling

Wow, this was a close one to call. I almost give this award to a new-comer Inland Wharf Brewing Company’s English Bitter dry-hopped with EGK (East Kent Goldings). It was a session beer with a wonderful woody hop presence. A beautiful mini-pint of ale. However, MacLeod Brewing Company always brings their A-Game to festivals with multiple pins on a mobile stillage. As expected, MacLeod’s did indeed have some tasty real ale and their 60 Shilling takes my crown for Most Stylistically Correct (as a general Scottish Ale, not necessarily a 60 Shilling/Scottish Light). Not only is it a rare style outside of the UK, but it was perfect for the day! Low ABV and refreshing, this malty, earthy yet dry brew kept me returning for another pour. Well done, MacLeod’s!

Runner up! A fine English Bitter.

Styles lesson bonus: I’ll keep this brief. A 60 Shilling ale, or Scottish Light according to the BJCP 2015 Guidelines, is the lightest of three nearly identical styles, each of which increases in strength and character as you move up the latter. These Scottish Ales are more commonly referred to as Scottish Light, Scottish Heavy, and Scottish Export. Think of these beers as the Scott’s response/equivalent to the Ordinary, Best, and Strong Bitters from their southern British neighbors. That’s not to say Scotland didn’t have a brewing tradition. In fact, their brewing traditions mirrored the English rather than copy. Historically, the Scottish Ales were created via what is called “Parti-gyle” brewing where a single mash would create several beers. This was achieved by the brewer running off the initial, carbohydrate-rich sweet liquid (wort) from the mash, and adding more water to the grains to extract more sugars. Repeat the process a few times, and you have a parti-gyle, although each sequential run off would have less fermentable carbohydrates. The third runoff of the parti-gyle would have the least amount of sugars and this wort is what would eventually become the Scottish Light, or 60 Shilling. Oh, and the Scotts were brewing pioneers. The almost essential practice of “sparging” (rinsing the grans during mash runoff) was invented by the Scotts.

Most Valiant Award...

I cannot end this review without mentioning Valiant. This was one of the last times (if not THE last time) we will see Valiant Brewing Company at a festival. Sadly, they will be closing their doors at the end of this month. It was great to see them there with a “cute” little beer cocktail, complete with a cherry on top. Rather than closing this article on a somber note, I’ll end it with awarding this year’s final award for this event to Valiant… to the entire brewery! You truly have been the most Valiant. Thank you for being a part of our beer lives!

Adding the cherry to Valiant's
Hop You Like a Hurricane

What else can I say about this event. Call it luck, call it planning, call it timing, call it serendipity; the beers were beautiful, the attendees were some of my best friends, and the weather was perfect for a tiki-themed cask ale festival. This is my second year reviewing this event. Greg, thank you for allowing me to spew my love for Firkfest. Keep up the great work, my friend!

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Certified Cicerone®

Photo by Jessica Rice McNew from Beer and Baking

For more official photos, check out Firkfest’s Official Facebook Page here.

Official Firkfest website here.

Additional photos by Beer and Baking here.

Official Beer and Baking page here.

Aged like a fine... Beer?

Yes, we are talking about aging and cellaring beer. What? You’ve never heard of aging beer?! Yes, it’s a thing. And it’s a wonderful thing! By the way: for the purpose of this article, “aging” and “cellaring” are used interchangeably. Beer cellaring is far from cut & dry. Follow me down the cellar. Watch your step...

(Photo source below)

What Beers to Age and How:

Possibly the most common question regarding beer aging is: what beers should I age? In his book Tasting Beer, Randy Mosher says, “Ales are, primarily, with bottle-conditioned ones preferred, as the yeast provides a bit of a protective effect.” Although it does not have any preservative properties, yeast does add character over time and helps provide longevity in the form of unique flavor development. Take care to not store bottle-conditioned beers in excess heat. This will cause the yeast autolysis (the death of yeast: rupturing the cell-walls releasing an array of compounds into the beer) and completely ruining your efforts. More on this down below. Speaking of temperature...

Recommended cellar temperatures are about 50° – 60°F. Some publication say 55° – 65°F. Basically this is the range a typical cellar. So when you hear someone say “cellar temperature” this is roughly the range they are talking about. Extreme temperature fluctuations should be avoided. Humidity might be a factor when regarding corked bottles. However, there is humidity inside the bottle, so this shouldn't be a problem as long the environment isn't extremely dry. A bit more on corks in the following section.

I once had a 3-year-old Corona which was kept unrefrigerated in an uninsulated garage where temperatures exceeded 110°F during the summer. Yes, I tasted this on purpose. Why? For science! There was also a fresh (well, recently purchased) bottle of Corona there for comparison.

I took the first sample. It was awful! Next, I proceeded to sample the 3-year-old Corona... (*taps microphone* Is this thing on? Ha!) Seriously though, the flavors of the aged Corona were astonishing. Think rancid apple juice mixed with vinegar and skunk spray. Yummy, right?

Besides the ridiculous heat, a Corona isn’t exactly a poster-child for the suggested beers to age. Typically, most will say to keep the ABV at 7% or higher and I tend to agree with this statement. Ethanol (the alcohol found in beer) is great for stability. Usually, darker colored beers tend to age better, too. As beer ages there’s bound to be some oxidation. In lighter beers this oxidation will cause paper/cardboard flavors in your beer. On the flip side, when aging darker colored beers, this same oxidation happens, but the highly kilned malts used will to evolve into a nutty, port and/or sherry-like characters and possibly some anise notes to add unique complexity.

Hops aroma and flavor will degrade and drop out followed by bitterness. Highly-hopped beers are usually not suitable for aging because of this.

Beers stored upright in a temperature-controlled fridge

Bottle Orientation:

Now for the bottle orientation. This is where the most vocal opinions reside on this subject. Most will say always keep your bottles upright while some say to lay them horizontal on a rack. Here’s the debate: Corks kept in a dry environment have to potential to dry out and shrink. Notice I’ve said "potential." There are many factors that I won’t get into here, but it CAN happen. That DOES NOT mean it ALWAYS happens. A solution would be to lay the beer on its side to keep the cork wet. However, this may cause a compound known as 2,4,6-Trichloroanisole (TCA) to add its musty flavors into the beer since the fungus thought to cause TCA thrives in corks.

With that said, sour and wild beers in corked bottles are what I believe to be the driving factor in this debate. Souring organisms are usually still present in a wild ale. Under aerobic conditions (presence of oxygen), the souring organism Acetobacter will begin to produce Acetic Acid essentially turning the beer into vinegar. Therefore, if the sour ale is bottles with a cork, there is argument towards laying these beers down to keep the cork wet keeping oxygen out. The downside: beer contacting the cork increasing the chances of TCA imparting its musty cellar traits.

My suggestion? Keep non-sour or non-wild beers upright, and lay down corked sours/wilds. If you do lay down your beers, turn them upright for a day or so to allow any sediment to drop and collect at the bottom of the bottle.

Vertical tasting of 2006 through 2015 Stone IRS
(Photo by Chris Scott)

Off-Flavors:

Off-flavor development is quite common with aged beer, although they are not always negative, depending on concentration. Autolysis (as mentioned above) can impart a broth-like aroma to a beer when it’s in small quantities, yet it can be absolutely disgusting in high concentrations. Imagine rotten garbage water. This is caused by all the Mercaptan compounds released during autolysis.

Oxidation is caused by the formation of the compound Trans-2-nonanal. As mentioned above, this adds a sherry or port quality to beers made with dark and specialty malts. In light beers or in extremely high quantities, it tastes like wet cardboard.

Diacetyl can also form in ages beer. Click here for my previous post about Diacetyl to find out more.

Acetaldehyde adds a green apple/sour apple, or even latex paint aromas. This compound is produced during normal yeast metabolism and is reduced into ethanol. Over oxidation can convert ethanol back to acetaldehyde.

Acetic Acid is caused by the bacteria Acetobacter under the presence of oxygen. See section above.

Big hoppy beers are best enjoyed fresh. As highly-hopped beers age, those intense hop aromas and flavors drop out and make way for the compound Beta-Damascenone. This creates a berry-like aroma and flavor that may or may it be pleasant.

There’s a slew of other compounds which degrade, arise, and may degrade again making way for even more complex compounds during beer aging. The chemistry is complex and it is tough to know the end result will be desirable or not.

Notable Exceptions:

Lambics are complex! The blended Lambics, Gueuze, are low in ABV (usually under 6%) and quite light in color. Yet, they can age for many years! This already complex style gets weirder under the right cellar conditions. These artisan and ancient beers are the only remaining beers to be spontaneously fermented by the natural airborne microflora (bacteria and fungi from a particular habitat) found in the outskirts of Brussels, Belgium. Garrett Oliver says in The Oxford Companion to Beer, “Because of the interactions between its complex microflora, the aging of lambic is unique among beers… In lambic, the microflora represent the biggest influence over the period of aging, but other factors are at work as well.”

Vintage bottles of Gueuze
(Photo by Ralph Turner)

Double and "triple" IPAs are very popular. As stated above, these intensely floral, aromatic, bitter beers are best fresh. However, there are some who believe an aged Double IPA or Imperial Red morphs into Barleywine-ish beer over time. It's an interesting thought and worth experimenting. It will not always work, but it can. Dogfish Head's 120 Minute IPA can age gracefully. It's not the same beer when aged, of course. The abundance of malts used and the elevated ABV makes for a splendid beer when cellared properly. I’ve had more disasters than successes when aging hoppy beers. Proceed with caution should you choose to age a big Double IPA.

Pigmentation:

When an aged wine is finally uncorked, white wine develops color leaning towards a golden shade, and red wine fades down to a strange redish-brownish color. Beer does the same thing, only with different color shifts. Aged lighter colored beers will gain shades of copper, while dark and black beers lighten up a bit. In my experience, the lightening up of dark beers is not as noticeable as the darkening of paler beers.

And there you have it!

In the end, it is entirely up to you if that bottle you have in your fridge should be opened now or later. By now it should be safe to say not all beers are meant to be aged. Don’t be afraid to experiment and ask questions. Many times, the beer label itself will have suggested aging timeframes and recommended caller temperatures. Start with that and then move on to experimentation.

I’ll leave you with this. A good friend of Terms of Enbeerment and much respected beer guide, Ed Heethuis, shared some words of wisdom on beer aging. This sums it up perfectly. “Aging beer is like making croutons. Since beer is basically liquid bread, and croutons are made from old bread...one has to choose wisely. Just like not all old bread produces great croutons, not all beer ages well.”

Let’s make some croutons! Choose your bread wisely.



Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Certified Cicerone®



*Resources and Helpful Links:

http://focusonthebeer.com/2013/01/cellarmanship-part-2-how-to-store-your-hoarded-beer-properly.html/

http://www.beeradvocate.com/beer/101/store/

http://www.craftbeer.com/craft-beer-muses/cellaring-craft-beer-to-age-or-not-to-age

http://www.dogfish.com/community/blogfish/members/justin-williams/5-things-you-should-know-about-aging-beer.htm

http://draftmag.com/cellaring-technique/

http://draftmag.com/cellaring-evolving-flavors/

http://draftmag.com/the-great-cellaring-myths/

Tasting Beer by Randy Mosher

The Oxford Companion to Beer

Cellar Photo credit: pixabay.com

The "D" Word: Diacetyl

Remember when we were young and we were taught never to say bad words? I apologize in advance for all the obscene language I'm about to say.

In the beer world, there's no greater profanity than saying the "D" word. And even worse is putting that "D" in your mouth. (Get your mind out of the gutter! ...That's not what I meant!)

I am referring to Diacetyl.

Pronunciation aside (die-ASS-a-teel, DIE-a-see-till, or die-assa-TEEL), this compound causes a movie popcorn, almost rancid butter-like flavor and aroma in beer. Although Diacetyl is produced by all yeast strains during normal metabolism, its quantities are greatly affected by many factors. The main factor is the amino acid Valine and how much of it is present in the wort. Regardless of this, Diacetyl is always produced at some rate during the first few days of fermentation.

*Warning! Chemistry up-ahead!*

2, 3-Butanedione (AKA: Diacetyl)

During the initial stages of fermentation, the yeast cell creates Valine as part of its metabolism cycle. Along this pathway to create the amino acid, the compound α(Alpha)-Acetolactate is also produced. A non-enzymatic oxidative decarboxylation of α-Acetolactate (I know, right?) occurs outside the yeast cell and is converted to 2,3-Butanedione, the compound we know as "Diacetyl."

The presence of Valine is directly related to the amount of Diacetyl produced because the enzyme that produces α-Acetolactate is deactivated when the wort contains high quantities of Valine. We know Valine is an amino acid and amino acids are the building-blocks of proteins. In turn, we can assume the high concentration of proteins in wort should significantly reduce the amount of Diacetyl produced. High protein levels could cause some other problems in the finished beer, so large protein quantities is not a viable solution to control Diacetyl.

Another compound called 2,3-Pentanedione is created via an separate pathway. This compound is also sent outside the yeast cell and will end up in the finished beer if not properly reduced. 2,3-Pentanedione is believed to have similar buttery flavor and aroma properties (sometimes described as honey-like), however this compound is not produced in very high quantities as 2,3-Butanedione is.

For you chemist out there, these two compounds are Vicinal Diketones. "In chemistry-speak, 'vicinal' essentially means 'adjacent', and 'diketone' means that there are two ketone functional groups (a ketone is an oxygen double-bonded to a carbon in the middle of a carbon chain)." (Beer Sensory Science)

As fermentation wraps up, most of the previously produced 2,3-Butanedione and 2,3-Pentanedione is reabsorbed by the yeast into its cell. Through more enzymatic activity, they are converted into 2,3-Butanediol and 2,3-Pentanediol, which have a much higher threshold for us humans. In other words, Diacetyl is turned into something we can't taste.

For you brewers out there, this is typically referred to as a "Diacetyl Rest." Brewers usually aid the reabsorption of these compounds by raising the temperature during the last day or two of fermentation. This rise in temperature excites the yeast and can more easily and vigorously convert Diacetyl into the non-flavored compound.

If Diacetyl is detected in your beer, it is usually an indicator of rushed production or improper fermentation practices.

Another common contributor to Diacetyl is a bacterial infection. The most likely culprits are the little bugs called Pediococcus and/or Lactobacillus. Both of these lovely bacteria create lactic acid and can produce Diacetyl as part of their fermentation products. While they may be a welcome addition to some wild ales and artisanal sour beers, it is quite unpleasant when found in dirty draft lines that haven't been maintained or cleaned sufficiently. Infections can also occur in many stages of the fermentation process, but dirty draft lines seem to be the biggest contributor for Diacetyl via bugs.

One more discovery is Diacetyl production during beer aging. Although the levels of Diacetyl in aged beer may be undetectable because of low levels or hidden behind the veil of oxidation compounds, Diacetyl could be nonetheless present.

In very small quantities, Diacetyl can be a contributing factor to the overall flavor and aroma profile of certain styles. Most English and Irish beers tend to have some detectable levels of Diacetyl adding a pleasant buttery undertone. An interesting fact is Diacetyl is one of the differentiating characteristics between a German Pilsner and a Czech Pilsner (Czech Pilsners are expected/accepted to have low levels of Diacetyl). However, in high quantities this compound can impart a butterscotch, movie popcorn, or a rancid butter flavor and aroma.

Another interesting fact to point out is while a great number of beer drinkers might be able to detect Diacetyl with ease, there are an equal amount of us that are completely blind to it. On that same note, some are very sensitive to Diacetyl while others will only find it detectable in extremely high quantities. Should you fall under any of these parameters, it is perfectly normal since it is simply genetics.

I think that's enough foul language for one lesson. I need to go wash my mouth out with some beer... Er, soap. And put a coin in the tip jar... Er, swear jar.



Class dismissed,

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Certified Cicerone®




Photo Credits:
A big thank you to BeerAndBaking's Jessica Rice McNew for her amazing photography in this article!!

Resources:
-Beer Sensory Science
-Janux Chemistry of Beer Course Materials
-White Labs
-Oxford Companion to Beer

*Beer Education - Ale vs. Lager*

Ale and lager. Which of the two is better? Before we can even begin to think about how to answer this question, we must first have a clear understanding on the differences between ales and lagers. The answer is not as clear-cut and dry as one would think.

Perhaps the question we should ask is: What is an ale and what is a lager?

The short answer is... nothing! Well, that is if we consider only the end product, which is still beer. But if we dissect this, there are only a few differences. The main few are yeast species, fermentation temperature, aging temperature & duration, and fruit character.

Yeast

This is the only real physical difference between ales and lagers. There are two types of yeast that brewers choose from. Ale yeast (also known as "top-fermenting" yeast) is called Saccharomyces Cerevisiae. This species of yeast has many different strains. Lager yeast (also known as "bottom-fermenting" yeast) is called Saccharomyces Pastorianus. As with ale yeast, this species also has many different strains. They both act the same in terms of basic fermentation metabolism and end product. Reasoning for distinguishing them as bottom or top-fermenting seems to correlate with the amount of kräusen found at the top of the fermenter.

FYI: Kräusen is the fluffy stuff that develops at the top of the fermenter that is made up of yeast and proteins and other materials frothed up as a result of yeast metabolism.

Fermentation Temperature

In general, ale yeast is usually slated to ferment at higher temperatures (65°F to 70°F, on average with some strains reaching even higher) and thus results and a vigorous, relatively quick fermentation and development of a large cap of kräusen. Lager yeast typically ferment at cooler temperatures (48°F to 58°F, on average). Because of this cooler temperature, fermentation is less violent, takes much longer, and there is less kräusen.

Aging Temperature & Duration

Ales are generally not aged for very long and are usually cold crashed (significant drop in temperature to about +/-40°F) after fermentation to allow the yeast and proteins to drop out. Dry-hopping (adding hops into the fermenter after fermentation is complete) is done at this time. Typically, an average ale is ready in as little as two to four weeks.

Lagers ferment at cooler temperatures and therefore take longer to complete. Fermentation can last a few weeks and up to a couple months in some cases. Once fermentation has finished, lagering can start. The word "lager" is the verb "to store" or put away in German. Combined with cool fermentation, lagering at about 33°F helps to further clarify the beer and allows the flavors to round out. Lagers can take many months to complete, from brew-day to packaging. Depending on the beer, lagering alone can last upwards to 6 months to a year, although 3 months is average.

Fruit Character

The aforementioned items are production-based distinctions. All of those aspects result in the one piece of evidence we can detect in both flavor and aroma: Fruit character. Ale yeast produce many fruity esters due to the quick fermentation, generally higher temperatures, and short aging. This is acceptable and desirable. Lagers on the other hand, are clean and show no fruit character. The slow fermentation caused by low temperature and long lagering times result in a malt and hops focused beer.

There will be more explanation further below, but the same can be true with beers fermented cold with ale yeast strains, which will produce very little esters. Interestingly enough, lager strains used to ferment beers at ale temperatures will indeed produce more fruit esters than they would usually do if fermented cold.

Bonus: Myths About Ales and Lagers

"Lagers have lower alcohol than ales." ...FALSE!

Being an ale does not necessarily indicate a higher ABV. True, the high-alcohol beers are usually an ale of some kind, there are also lagers available that can reach ABV's above 10%. Eisbock is one example.

"Ales are dark." ...FALSE!

Cream Ales and American Blonde Ales are quite pale in color.

"Lagers are always light in color." ...FALSE!

Doppelbock, Dunkle, American Dark Lager, and Baltic Porter are examples of lager beers that are dark brown to almost black in color.

"Lagers have more carbonation." ...FALSE!

Have you ever popped opened a bottle of Duvel? That's a Belgian Golden Strong Ale. Try to pour it without a producing a foam head at least 3 fingers high. Just try it.

Curveballs

This is probably the most important part of this article. We have hybrid beers out there to throw us a off-course and shows off how far we have come in our understanding of what used to be a clear line between ale and lager. These hybrid beers are a blend of ale and lager, usually using lager yeasts fermented at the lower end of ale temperatures and/or often involve lagering for a period of time regardless of yeast strain or species. Examples of these hybrids include Cream Ale, California Common, Kölsch, and Altbier.

California Common and  Cream Ale use an adapted lager strain to ferment at the low-end of ale temperatures (too high for some lager strains) and results in clean lager characteristics. This is historically true for Cream Ale, but is currently not that common. Kölsch and Altbier are examples of an ale yeast strains fermenting at the high-end of lager temperatures (too low for some ale stains) used to produce lager characteristics. They also go through a period of cold conditioning although the duration varies by style. Those are some examples of styles which create clean, lager-like beers using non-traditional methods.

A word on lagering: It is not uncommon for a beer fermented with ale yeast to undergo a cold-conditioning phase or for a "bottom-fermented" beer to be aged at room temperature. The resulting beer may differ from the traditional expectations, but could still be enjoyable if done correctly.

Other cuveballs are beers fermented with other organisms and/or wild yeasts. These organisms and wild yeasts (such as wild Saccharomyces, Brettanomyces, Lactobacillus, Pediococcus, and Acetobacter) all have their own properties in regards to optimum fermentation temperatures. However, most of the beers we see inoculated with any type of "bug" or "wild" yeasts/organisms are typically kept at room temperature (68°-72°F) or higher. So, by the explanation above, these wild and sour beers are widely accepted as ales.

And there you have it!

To recap, ale yeast (Saccharomyces Cerevisiae) and lager yeast (Saccharomyces Pastorianus) is the only physical difference between them. The flavor differences between lagers and ales are small, but noticeable. Lagers are clean, little no no yeast character with and no fruity esters, fermented a cool temperatures, and are submitted to extended lagering. Ales tend to have fruit character, fermented at higher temperatures, and not aged as long by comparison. There are exceptions with hybrid's using lager strains at low ale temperatures or ale strains at high lager temperatures.

Hope you learned a thing or two. Thanks for reading!

Cheers,

Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Certified Cicerone®

Vocabulary Lesson – Dimethyl Sulfide (DMS)

Dimethyl Sulfide, more well-known by its initials (DMS), is a compound causing flavors and aromas considered an unacceptable in most beer style. DMS causes a creamed corn or cooked vegetables flavor and aroma when found in beer at detectable levels. When present at high concentrations, DMS can cause more of a rotten vegetable aroma and taste. Although it is considered an off-flavor in most styles, DMS is actually a desirable trait and/or acceptable in small quantities (complementary and adding to complexity) in most pale lagers, such as a German Pils and Munich Helles, and some light-colored ales, like Cream Ale.

The most common way to form DMS is in the brew kettle. The precursor of DMS is the compound S-Methyl-Methionine (SMM), an amino acid formed in barley during the germination stage of malting. Once the germination (tricking barley into sprouting) is complete, the malt is then kilned (heated) to remove moisture then kilned even further depending on the type of malt that is being created. SMM is a thermally liable compound, which means that it reacts at a certain temperature and creates something else. Lightly kilned malts, such as Pilsner Malt, are not subjected to excessive heat for large periods of time and retain much of the SMM found within. Mashing (steeping malt in hot water) is usually done at a temperature that does not create DMS. However, it will release SMM into the wort (sweet liquid created in the mash) and is carried over into the kettle. When SMM is in the kettle and the wort is boiling, it create DMS.

Along with SMM, there is another compound is responsible for DMS. Dimethyl Sulfoxide (DMSO) is created when DMS gets oxidized and this can happen either in the kettle or already be present in the malt. DMSO is not as volatile as DMS and is not heat sensitive, therefore, it would remain dissolved in the wort even after boiling. DMSO is then reduced into DMS in the fermenter by yeast during fermentation. Since top-fermenting (ale) yeast tends preform more vigorous fermentations, the production of Carbon Dioxide (Co2) can literally scrubs away some of the DMS compounds out of the fermenter via the blow-off valve. Conversely, bottom-fermenting (lager) yeasts preform much slower so more of the DMS created from DMSO during fermentation can remain in the beer because the Co2 production is not as energetic. This is yet another reason why pale lagers tend to have higher levels of DMS compared to other styles.

DMS is quite volatile and generally escapes the brew kettle as steam with no issue. Homebrewers will encounter this as a problem if they cover the pot of boiling wort or before it has cooled down. The condensation collected on the cover is full of DMS and simply falls back into the wort. Other major contributors are a the use of high-protein malt such as those made from 6-row barley, lack of a vigorous boil, not cooling down the wort quickly enough, or bacterial infections from bacteria such as Enterobacter.

Thanks for reading. I hope you enjoyed it and learned a thing or two. Class dismissed!

Cheers,

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Certified Cicerone®


References:

https://beersensoryscience.wordpress.com/tag/dms/
"Beer: Quality, Safety and Nutritional Aspects" by by Paul S Hughes (Author), E Denise Baxter
"Malts and Malting" by D.E. Briggs

Doppelbock: Liquid Bread

Paulaner's Salvator Doppelbock

We've all heard beer referred to as “liquid bread” once or twice before. This analogy can fit many styles such as a Bavarian Weissbier or Belgian Quad. But, there is one beer style with greater affinity to "liquid bread" than any other: Doppelbock.

This beer style has a strong footing in Munich as a place of origin and monks are credited for its creation. Although that may be (somewhat) true, the actual origin story begins in northern Germany and the monks were from another neighboring country. Puzzling, to say the least. Let’s explore where this style came from and see if we can bring these two puzzle pieces together, shall we?

The story of Doppelbock begins in the city of Einbeck, located in northern Germany, in the mid 1500s. Einbeck was a thriving trade city and its specialty trade item was beer. This ale was made with lightly kilned barley & wheat and was generously hopped. Einbeck's beer made its way into many cities and that included Munich. The ruling family of Bavaria were particularly fond of the Einbeck brew. Plenty of money was being spent on this beer. Some brewmasters from Einbeck were brought to Munich in 1540 to teach the Munich brewers a thing or two.

In 1612, Duke Maximillian I(the first) convinced well-regarded Einbeck brewer Elias Pichler to move down to Munich and improve the Einbecker clones that were available. Pichler refined the brew to fit the parameters he had. This meant the Einbecker no longer contained wheat malt as this was reserved for special beers made for the royal family and employed the lagering tactics that were already well established by Munich brewers. The resulting beer was released at the famous Hofbräuhaus in 1614 and it was referred to as brewed the “Einbeck way.” We now have the birth of what eventually evolved to what we know as the traditional bock, or Bockbier. One puzzle piece down.

Now to discuss the he second puzzle piece: the monks. In 1627, they came marching in from Italy over the Alps and took home near Munich. Wait... Italy?! That's right, Italy. These monks were from the order of St. Francis of Paula. They wasted no time and began brewing shortly after arriving. These Franciscan monks established the Paulaner Brewery in 1634 and lay claim to the Doppelbock style. However, it went by another, more divine name. More on that later.

Before we move on, a quick note on how “Bockbier” got its name. It is widely believed and accepted that it is a manipulation of the word “Einbeck” in the Bavarian dialect. This would make the word sound like “Ayn pock” and eventually evolving to “ein bock” (one bock). “Bock” is also the word for “buck” or “goat” in German, explaining why so many versions of Bockbier display goats on their labels. That is quite ironic when you think about it. We consider the development of the Doppelbock style was a by-product of a testament of faith, yet the goat has some satanic symbolism.

(So metal! \m/)

Ahem... Moving on...

As with most devout Catholics, Lent was taken very seriously. During this time, the monks would not eat solid food and only liquid was allowed to be ingested. With Lent being the longest period of fasting for them, plenty of liquid would be consumed, most of which was the bockbier they were already experts at producing. Over time, and after receiving blessing from the Pope himself to consume such a wonderful beverage during Lent, the bockbiers got stronger. This was literally liquid bread for the Paulaner monks. It was only natural the beer was referred to as “Salvator,” as in “The Saviour,” for obvious reasons. In 1780, Paulaner was finally granted permission to brew commercially.

After the brewery came under Napoleon’s control in 1799, it lay in shambles until 1806 when it was rented a brewer by the name Franz Zacheri, ultimately purchasing it by 1813. Following a stretch of legal battles, in 1837 Zacheri finally was given permission by King Ludwig I(the first) to brew “Salvator” without obstruction. Clones were soon being produced by other breweries. The Schmederer brothers, Zacheri’s heirs, wisely trademarked “Salvator” in 1896. Paulaner is now the only one that can use the name “Salvator” for its Doppelbock. This is why we see other Doppelbocks with names such as Celebrator or Optimator keeping the “-ator” suffix since they cannot use the original name.

Ayinger's Celebrator

If you are not the fasting type, pair your Doppelbock with game meats such a venison or wild boar. Fruit sauces are great complements to both the meat and the sweet malt character of the beer. For an interesting combination, try Doppelbock with earthy, smoky Mexican dishes such as Oaxacan Mole. Don’t stop with the main course and try a caramel flan for dessert with a Ayiger's Celebrator (pictured above). If you are looking to pair with cheese, reach for Swiss Gruyère.

Doppelbocks are quite amazing and flavorful, but be cautious at that seemingly gentle touch. These beers are made for sippin’ as they span from about 7.0% to 10.0% ABV. Colors range from mahogany to deep garnet to almost black in some examples. Aromas are almost like rising bread in the oven. On the palate, you’ll get toasty and bready notes, slight caramel and toffee sweetness, finishing off with a moderate bitterness and a clean lager character. The darker versions have some chocolate flavors, too. Silky, full, and round on the tongue and finishes malty and clean. Serve in a traditional dimpled mug at 40°F, take your time, and enjoy what the monks gave us.

Prost! 

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Certified Cicerone®




References:
The German Beer Institute
The Brewmaster's Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food by Garrett Oliver

I Like Your Style

It’s no secret that I am a big fan of beers crafted to a defined style. Be it a classic style like a Helles or lesser known styles like an American Strong Pale Ale (no, it’s not an IPA). Within a short drive of either my residence or place of work, I feel lucky to have several breweries producing beers that are stylistically solid.

Although several may happen to be one-off's or special/seasonal releases, the fact that these breweries are making beers to style is worth mentioning. I appreciate and admire the hard-working brewers that created these amazing beverages.

Currently, at the time of this article’s publication, these are my current stand-outs…

Bottle Logic – Anaheim, CA

Heliosphere (Helles Lager)

Availability: Please check with the brewery

Like father, like son. Yup, that's my pops enjoying his beer. Recently made available on draught at the tasting room, this Helles Lager is amazing! Soft, subtle, and elegant. One of the most difficult styles to create because it is so gentle on the senses, Bottle Logic took the challenge and recreated this old-world beauty perfectly.

Bootlegger’s Brewery – Fullerton, CA

Rocco Red (American Amber/Red Ale)

Availability: Year Round

Bootlegger’s make some unique beers and plenty of one-off’s which are all great in their own right, but nothing stands out more than Rocco Red. This American Amber is layered with citrusy and piny hops on top of a sweet and bready malt backbone. If you’ve ever had their popular Knuckle Sandwich IIPA, it’s as if Rocco Red is a baby version of it. Not as aggressive, but quite flavorful. I like to call it a “juicy” beer.

Tustin Brewing Company – Tustin, CA

Galaxy Hopper (American Strong Pale Ale)

Availability: Specialty every few months

Tustin Brewing Company continues to impress me and I find it disheartening to know that many still do not consider them a great beer producer. Galaxy Hopper is a great example of how remarkable the beers are there. This American Strong Pale Ale showcases Galaxy Hops out of Australia. The best of both IPA and APA (American Pale Ale) -IPA aromatics of immature tropical fruits, an earthy white grape trait, and grassiness; Pale drinkability with a stiff, yet not too sweet, maltiness- all in one satisfying pint.

The Bruery – Placentia, CA

Saison Rue (Saison/Farmhouse Ale)

Availability: Year Round

What can be said about The Bruery that has not been mentioned before? They make some of the most unique and eccentric beers you will ever find in this ever-expanding beer world. Yet behind the veil of powerful spirit barrel-aged beers, puckering wild ales and sours, and unusual creations lays one of their original gems. Saison Rue is a near perfect example of the Saison style. Light tart and funkiness, pepper and spice flavors, refreshing bitterness, plenty of explosive carbonation, and dry. I’ve heard many suggest that this Saison might still fall short of being a proper representation of the style. In my opinion, it’s spot on!

Noble Ale Works – Anaheim, CA

English Bitters

Availability: Please check with the brewery

Noble has established itself as creating some the best IPA’s around with the likes of Tongue Tickles DIPA and I love It! IPA (both are award winners, mind you). However, they are the only brewery around me that constantly makes English style ales accurately. At the moment you can find a few English Bitters in their line-up with The River Thames being especially good.

TAPS Fish House & Brewery – Brea, CA

Dortmunder (Exportbier)

Availability: Please check with the brewery

TAPS has always been known for making solid stylistically accurate beers, and the Dortmunder is no exception. Basically a super-charged Helles, this golden bright beer has just enough malt character to draw you in while the pleasant bitterness keeps you coming back for another sip.

I will focus on other breweries that are not so near me at a later time. For now, check these out when you have a chance! Please visit the brewery’s social media outlets and/or websites for availability.

Cheers!

-Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Certified Cicerone®

Related Articles:

Helles History Lesson

Galaxy Hopper Quick Review

Rocco Red Quick Review

Photo Credits:

Bootlegger's Website

Tustin Brewing Co.'s Facebook

The Bruery Website

Noble Ale Works' Facebook

TAPS Website (Mobile)

*Presenting - Darkstar November*

An Imperial Stout aged in Buffalo Trace Bourbon Barrels with Molasses and Rye by Bottle Logic in Anaheim, CA.

Talk about impressive. This massive Stout tips the scales at 13.7% ABV. Pours opaque black with a creamy mocha-colored cap on top.

Aromas come off with notes of rich chocolate, molasses, vanilla, almonds, cigar-box, and booze.

The taste follows the nose perfectly. Starts off with dark chocolate, sweet caramel, coffee grounds, and stone fruits. The middle is akin to the flavors of the spirit which once graced the barrels: Buffalo Trace Bourbon. The finish is where this beer shows off its true elegance. Notes of alcohol, chocolate, slight wood indicators, sweet tobacco leaves, and a nutty, almond-like back-palate brings this tasting experience to a wonderful conclusion.

Silky and creamy structure on the tongue. As the beer warms up, the flavors and aromas are even more impressive. Serve only about 8oz at a time in a proper snifter (or similar glassware) and take your time.

Although it can be enjoyed now, this beer will age gracefully for many years and the additional port and sherry notes will contribute to the complexity. For an even more tantalizing flavor adventure, pair with a "Flor de las Antillas" cigar by My Father Cigars and let the good times roll.

Darkstar November is as black as the vacuum of space, yet the aromas and flavors shine brighter than a Type 1-A Supernova.

Cheers!

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Certified Cicerone®

Presenting: Galaxy Hopper

American-Style Strong Pale Ale by Tustin Brewing Company
(Photos - Left: Taken at beer release. Right: Found on TBC's FB Page)

Not all American-Style Strong Pale Ales are created equal. This creation by Jarrod Larsen, award-winning brewer at Tustin Brewing Company, is an aromatic experience for your senses.

Chinook, Amarillo, and Galaxy hops in the boil and dry-hopped with a blend of Galaxy, Amarillo, and Citra... Twice! And it shows.

Gold in color, a rich white cap, and a slight veil over it.

The nose is where the spirit shines. Aromas of underripe melon and peaches, some orange rind, white grape, and a grassy character to hold it all together.

The palate resembles the nose with the addition of an earthy character and a slight bready note in the background. Bitter from beginning to end with all the fruit layers lingering on the finish.

The structure is medium-light bodied, fairly well attenuated, and medium carbonation. 6%ABV, 50 IBU's, and tasty. Get some while it lasts!

Cheers,

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Certified Cicerone®

Presenting: Rocco Red

An American Amber/Red Ale
by Bootlegger's Brewery in Fullerton, CA

Since its pilot release back in 2011, I fell in love with this beer and quickly rose to become one of my favorite Bootlegger's offerings. I immediately described it as "Baby Knuckle" for it's similarity in flavor their DIPA, Knuckle Sandwich. I'm not the only one that thinks highly of Rocco Red; It recently brought back a Bronze Medal from GABF!

This beer is a dark ruby red, slight chill haze on the presentation topped off with a creamy, off-white head.

Aromas come out as orange marmalade, citrus sweet candy, pine, burnt sugar, and toasted bread.

Flavors of rich malt and American hops. Mouthfeel is medium-full with a semi-silky texture. At 7.1%ABV, it's a dangerously easy and satisfying drink. Pace yourself!

Check out this award winning beer for yourself at their tasting room located in famous Downtown Fullerton. Also available in bottles.

Cheers,

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Certified Cicerone®

Märzen/Oktoberfest

The Bavarian Crest and flag colors adorn this
Oktoberfest banner.

"O'zapft is!"

And with that loud cry, the ceremonial first keg is tapped; the world’s biggest party is underway ('O'zapft is!' means It’s tapped! in German, Bavarian dialect).

The Oktoberfest celebration in Munich is quite attractive to many Americans because of the giant mugs of beers and mass consumption of the golden liquid contained within them. That’s not saying the proud Bavarians won’t indulge and intake their fair share of beer, there is more to this festival than beer drinking. How did this celebration become a tradition in the first place? And, more importantly, why is there a beer named after the festival? Why is it held on grounds which used to be a meadow and is named after a princess? Let’s dive into the past as I explain the interesting (and sometimes convoluted) beginnings of not only the festival, but also the beer that bares its name.

The best place to start is, well, the beginning. Technology, brewing ingenuity, and key events have an important role in the following timeline. It's quite a ride.

Ready? Here we go...

In the 1550’s, the Bavarian government outlawed brewing in the summer months due to the inconsistent beers being produced during this time of year. They didn't understand why, yet they knew fermentation and cold storage (lager) done in the colder months of the year resulted in higher quality beers.

Brewers stepped up production during March (give or take) and brewed plenty of beer to be stored away. These beers were quite strong, dark, and well hopped. Kept in cool caves, they eventually mellowed out. They eventually became known as Märzenbier (March beer).

In congruent with the new harvest, brewing would begin again in late September or early October. Evidence shows that the remaining Märzenbiers were consumed in mass quantities to free-up the casks for the upcoming brewing season. Not exactly a party or celebration, yet still a good time as you could imagine.

Fast-forward to 1807. Gabriel Sedlmayr, Master Brewer to the royal court of Bavaria, obtains a small brewery in Munich... Spaten. Sedlmayr would spend the rest of his life perfecting the bottom-fermenting (lager) practice and teaching his sons (Gabriel -the younger- and Joseph) the trade. 

Before we get further into the Sedlmayr’s timeline, one key event took place on October 12, 1810. The Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig married Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen. A grand wedding party was held just outside of the city gates on a meadow. Over 40,000 Bavarians came to party and they stayed for several days. Of all things, the main attraction to the commoners was a horse race during the last day of festivities. The celebration continued year after year, eventually evolving and merging with the celebration of agriculture, harvest, and clearing out the casks for the new brewing season (and as mentioned before, these older casked beers were in their prime condition with the extended aging). Horse racing eventually was dropped from the celebrations. To honor the princess, the grounds that continue to hold this party is named Theresienwiese, Therese’s Meadow in German, Bavarian dialect.

The first Oktoberfest was a wedding celebration that lasted more than a few days... and there was no focus beer, mainly because there might not have been any available. By 1814, there is literature mentioning generous amounts of beer. Now, we have the world’s biggest party where about 30% of all Munich brewery production is accounted for!

Let us rejoin our brewers in their timeline and find out how we arrived with a beer style named after the festival.

In 1833, brewers Gabriel Sedlmayr (the younger) of the Spaten Brewery his good friend, Anton Dreher of the Dreher Brewery in Vienna made a research trip to England. Their goal was to witness and study a revolutionary hot air kiln, which kilned green malt to a relatively pale consistency. They returned and immediately got to work creating paler malts and incorporating them at their respective breweries.

Sedlmayr released an amber lager during the 1841 Oktoberfest known simply as a Märzen made with his pale grain dubbed Munich malt (although this Märzen was paler in comparison to Märzenbiers prior). Likewise, a few months later Dreher released an even paler amber lager made with his own pale grain dubbed Vienna malt. These two beers were the precursors to what we know as the Oktoberfest/Märzen and Vienna Lagers today.

Following Sedlmayr’s death in 1839, his two sons -Gabriel and Joseph- assume the ownership responsibilities.

Joseph would later (in 1842) withdraw from Spaten to pursue his own brewing venture and would acquire the Leist Brewery. Joseph after a while attains the Franziskaner and shuts down the Leist Brewry. By 1865, Joseph’s only focus is brewing operations at Franziskaner.

While all this is happening, a brewer by the name Josef Groll released his pale golden lager to the unsuspecting public of Pilsen, Bohemia (modern-day Czech) on November 11, 1842. It did not take long for this beer to gain footing with beer drinkers. Virtually all other breweries in the world, including Germany, would follow suit in creating paler beers. No market was unaffected, not even the traditional Märzenbiers.

Joseph was quite aware of the growing popularity of pale-colored beers and he applied it to a modified Vienna Lager formula and released it during the 1872 Oktoberfest. This beer was Franziskaner’s Ur- Märzen. The copper colored, toasty, crisp Oktoberfest beer we know and love was finally born!

The development of refrigeration by Carl von Linde in 1873 encouraged breweries to slowly move into year round production (ironically enough, the first refrigeration system was developed for the Spaten Brewery). The Märzen style beers evolved into specialty products specially made for the festival. Märzen as a “March” beer slowly became a style designation associated with the festival. Naturally, they are now known as one and the same, Märzen/Oktoberfest. With this mash-up, the need to create a special, darker, stronger beer in March eventually dissipated. There was simply no need for it any longer.

Spaten and Franziskaner would join in 1922 bringing the Sedlmayr’s back under one umbrella of influential brewers.

In recent times, since 1990 to be exact, the Oktoberfest style has split into two distinct versions: Bright gold to deep gold Festbier and the traditional densely gold to coppery-orange Märzen.

Deep-Golden Festbier
(Photo Credit: Paulaner.com)

The traditional Märzen/Oktoberfest beers are copper colored and very bright with a dense cap of creamy foam. Rich malty aromas with toasty notes. Sweet yet pleasantly bitter on the palate with complex malt backbone, medium bodied, and clean, dry finish. These are the versions we commonly see here in the United States as they are now produced mainly for export. As mentioned above, the need to create this version as a necessity is no longer valid due to the development of refrigeration. That’s not to say traditional Märzen/Oktoberfest beers are not available in Bavaria because they are (just not as common as before).

In Munich, the Oktoberfest style beer is golden in color. As other lessons in beer anthropology has taught us, the popularity of the Pilsner forced brewers to get with the program to keep their thirsty customers happy. Spaten introduced a Helles Lager to the Munich locals in 1895 in response to the growing demand for the golden beer. This slowly carried over to Oktoberfest by the 1990's. The most popular beer served in the modern Oktoberfest is either a Helles or a supercharged version of Helles (slightly stronger in ABV and a deeper shade of gold, resembling a Dortmunder Export/German Helles Export) and is what is served as Oktoberfest-bier.

The official golden beer (Oktoberfest-bier) described above also goes by the following style names: Festbier, Wiesn, or Wiesnbier. These beers are gold in color, brilliant clarity with a creamy white head. Pilsner malt dominates the aroma with notes of grain-like sweetness. Not as much toasty flavors or aroma. Low bitterness in flavor and finish, with a well-rounded and soft malt character.

Whew!

That was intense. The Oktoberfest beer style history is quite expansive. Short of simply saying, “Oktoberfest is the celebration of beers, harvest, and agriculture that began with a royal wedding,” which is fairly accurate, understanding the significant historical events and timeline brings even more depth to this already amazing beer style.

Regardless of the version you are drinking, serve in a traditional dimpled 'masskrug' and enjoy with a Bratwursts or other local eats for the best experience. It’s even better if you are ‘mit Freunden, bei Oktoberfest.'

Ich liebe dieses Bier. One of my favorite styles, indeed.

Prost!

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Certified Cicerone®