What a past couple of years they have been. Not at all what we all were hoping for or wanted or may have predicted, I’m certain of that. But we can at least take a day to feel thankful for the little things and be hopeful for a light at the end of this virus-laden tunnel.
A quick digression: The history of this Holiday is unquestionably disturbing, and the day is also one of respect to our Natives. While some may demonstrate thanks to a deity or in a secular fashion as I do, let’s please also pay respects and not ignore the unfortunate past.
Last year, 2020, I tested positive for COVID-19 early in November. This meant a couple of things. One, thanksgiving was initially going to be a bit delayed while I was isolated for two weeks. And two, my sense of taste and smell was muted (a common symptom of the SARS-CoV-2 virus) and research proved correct with me as it did take a while for them to return.
How can one enjoy this day when the wonderful aromas and tastes all resemble the same bland flavor? I can’t begin to express how upset this makes me...
Needless to say, last year we had a virtual dinner apart from each other for everyone’s safety.
Well, it’s 2021 now, we are all fully vaxed, keeping the gathering to immediate family, and we will give this whatever-normal-is-now a try. This year’s dinner lineup contains a few surprises some may find it interesting, and some may find it odd. In the spirit of coming together, I think this is the one way, if nothing else, I can symbolically set aside differences to encourage acceptance, tolerance, and the motivation to endure these past stressful 19+ months.
In this comprehensive post, I’ll outline the itinerary for this flavor playground I get to play in once a year. Just a bit further down is the projected lineup for this year with the food pairings that my siblings and I will make for our family. Use these as suggestions, not as dogma, and explore what suits your palate.
A quick note on pairing food and beer. First and most importantly, remember to match the intensity of both. The impact on the palate of each one should be about equal. Then, play with interactions between flavors; sweet, salt, sour, bitter, umami, and emerging flavors/sensations such as fat and carbonations. Use these interactions to achieve the so-called three C’s; Cut, Contrast, and Compliment. Cut can be referred to as Cleanse. Carbonation (The 4th C?), Bitterness, and/or Acidity can act as a cutting agent. Contrast is best explained as opposites attract. Flavors contrast to create a pleasant or unique experience. Think sweet and sour, for example. Compliment refers to common flavors, affinity, or harmonizing two or more flavors in a dance. Think about the char on grilled meats (Millard reaction) and roasted malts.
A good pairing might only target one, a better pairing might accomplish two, but some of the best pairings achieve all three!
Morning Brew
Can’t say I’ve been drinking all day without starting in the morning. A warm, spiked cup-a-Joe, a mild stick to burn, and Pan Dulce. Rise and shine!
My choice: Irish Coffee (Mild arabica coffee, Jameson Irish Whisky, honey, and whipped cream).
Hydration
Quick interjection here. With so much booze going around on this day of gluttony, it is of the utmost importance to pace yourself, have composure, and have an abundance of hydration.
Day-Drinkin’
After some hydration, let’s crack open the first beer! I’d opt for a crisp beer with some bitterness to wake the senses up a bit more. A traditional Pilsner works just fine here. A unique choice could also be a Flanders Red or a fruited sour to slap those taste buds awake if they are still asleep.
My choice: Smooth Translation Kölsch by Green Cheek
Lunch
It’s become something of a tradition now in our home. My father and I take an unconventional route for a light lunch and make Ceviche. The entire family munches on it around mid-day before my siblings and I begin to rotate in the kitchen making our assigned side dishes for dinner. For this, I reach for something with some acidity and a slight funk to complement the freshness of the Ceviche. A balanced Gueuze or similar with our Ceviche is one of my favorite pairings.
My choice: Spontanaheim 2020 by Bruery Terruex
Apéritif
My father and I love to exchange stories and enjoy a nice beer. After lunch, we have about an hour before the cooking begins. Something with character but take notice not to ruin your pallet. Bitterness tends to increase one’s appetite, so try not to reach for the IPA’s just yet.
My choice: Magic of the Moment German Pils by Radiant
Appetizer
Here is where some meats and cheeses come into play. I try to have variety on my charcuterie boards as to have something for everyone to enjoy. If you’re only doing some heavy cheeses (aged cheddars or rambunctious blues) you can bring out your hoppy Pales and IPA’s. The cutting power of the hops helps lift the fats and complements the unctuousness of some intense cheeses. There are plenty of amazing Pale’s and IPA’s out there if that’s what you’re looking for. A Wit is a wonderful pairing if you have prosciutto with goat cheese specifically. Something acidic will help cut through the fat of the goat and other fatty cheeses. If wine is your game, a well-aged German Riesling should work nicely here, too. This year we kept it simple with some medium-aged cheddar, piquant blue, creamy chèvre, and firm manchego. For these, a Pale over an IPA should be a friendlier pair, although the chèvre might cause a battle. I’ll sip the Riesling with that one.
My choices: 2012 Dr. Loosen German Riesling Kabinett, Big Star by Stereo
Intermezzo
Time to reset the palate and take a break before the big dinner. Pause for hydration and then a dry, crisp seltzer or a tart fruited kettle sour will do the trick. A few bites of a fresh fruit are welcomed here, too. Then, more water!
My choice: Fil’s Hard Lemonade Seltzer by Bearded Tang
Dinner
Argued in his book “The Brewmasters Table,” Garrett Oliver proclaims there is no other choice for Thanksgiving dinner than a Bière de Garde. The subtle sweetness in the beer, particularly in the darker versions, pairs perfectly with the poultry, the yeasty spices will latch on to the stuffing, and the carbonation will wash away the mouth-coating mashed potatoes and gravy. While a Saison, Belgian Strong Ale (Dark or Golden, depending on the food), or Tripel may prove suitable substitutes since local Bière de Garde’s are difficult to find, other malty styles can prove wonderful at the table. Brown Ales, Scottish Ales, American Ambers, Irish Reds, and malty Lagers like Märzen or Dunkel can hold their own just fine with this kind of meal. A Hazy Ale might yield an interesting result too if that’s a style you enjoy. This year, I’m going to be a bit daring and reach into my cellar for a tart beer with some age. It may backfire, but the dark fruit notes in one should complement the bird, salty side dishes should be tamed, and tangy acidity could cut through any fats and oils leftover.
My choice: Oude Tart with Cherries (2013) by The Bruery
Dessert
Sweetness in most desserts can easily cloy the palate. Therefore, coffee is usually the drink used to contrast this. It’s also why we can easily substitute espresso with a big, roasty Imperial Stout, particularly those barrel-aged and more naturally still if infused with coffee themselves. But things can get boring if you stick with the usual. Have fun with it! Traditional pumpkin pie? Try it with Barleywine or Scotch Ale to add some caramel flavors, non-barrel-aged coffee stouts with some residual sweetness to contrast (which is what I’ll do this year), or a spiced holiday beer to resonate with the pie. Pecan pie with a big beer like mentioned above to take on the stickiness. Don’t forget fruited sours. They can resonate wonderfully with some deserts. There are so many ways to go here. Just keep intensities equal and you’ll be alright. I’m looking forward each year to opening one of my favorite bourbon barrel-aged (BBA)stouts. This year we are having Cheesecake, as well. It may not be traditional, but a BBA Stout pairs well with them, especially if they have a cherry drizzle.
My choice: Darkstar November 2020 and Vlad the Barista
Digestif
Time to slow down. And the bloated gut and tryptophan may have something to do with it. Many select a coffee to keep from nodding off. Some prefer Brandy (like my Pops!). Others still prefer a cocktail or a glass of wine. All are great choices. It is all about what one enjoys, after all. I’ll be indulging with a dram of Scotch with notes of oranges marmalade, nutmeg, walnuts, and cinnamon to kickstart digestion.
My choice: The Dalmore 12 Year Single Malt Highland Scotch.
Cigars
I’ve lined up some sticks to have during the day if time allows for it. The only two where it is more certain than not are during the morning brew and at the end of the evening. For my morning coffee, I’d normally the smooth My Father Flor de las Antillas and for the Digestif at the end of the night to complement my Dalmore I was thinking to elected the succulent Oliva Serie V Meliano. But, I may dive into my stash of Cubans for this day. Not sure yet, but either way it will be pleasant and enjoyable.
A quick digression: The history of this Holiday is unquestionably disturbing, and the day is also one of respect to our Natives. While some may demonstrate thanks to a deity or in a secular fashion as I do, let’s please also pay respects and not ignore the unfortunate past.
Last year, 2020, I tested positive for COVID-19 early in November. This meant a couple of things. One, thanksgiving was initially going to be a bit delayed while I was isolated for two weeks. And two, my sense of taste and smell was muted (a common symptom of the SARS-CoV-2 virus) and research proved correct with me as it did take a while for them to return.
How can one enjoy this day when the wonderful aromas and tastes all resemble the same bland flavor? I can’t begin to express how upset this makes me...
Needless to say, last year we had a virtual dinner apart from each other for everyone’s safety.
Well, it’s 2021 now, we are all fully vaxed, keeping the gathering to immediate family, and we will give this whatever-normal-is-now a try. This year’s dinner lineup contains a few surprises some may find it interesting, and some may find it odd. In the spirit of coming together, I think this is the one way, if nothing else, I can symbolically set aside differences to encourage acceptance, tolerance, and the motivation to endure these past stressful 19+ months.
In this comprehensive post, I’ll outline the itinerary for this flavor playground I get to play in once a year. Just a bit further down is the projected lineup for this year with the food pairings that my siblings and I will make for our family. Use these as suggestions, not as dogma, and explore what suits your palate.
A quick note on pairing food and beer. First and most importantly, remember to match the intensity of both. The impact on the palate of each one should be about equal. Then, play with interactions between flavors; sweet, salt, sour, bitter, umami, and emerging flavors/sensations such as fat and carbonations. Use these interactions to achieve the so-called three C’s; Cut, Contrast, and Compliment. Cut can be referred to as Cleanse. Carbonation (The 4th C?), Bitterness, and/or Acidity can act as a cutting agent. Contrast is best explained as opposites attract. Flavors contrast to create a pleasant or unique experience. Think sweet and sour, for example. Compliment refers to common flavors, affinity, or harmonizing two or more flavors in a dance. Think about the char on grilled meats (Millard reaction) and roasted malts.
A good pairing might only target one, a better pairing might accomplish two, but some of the best pairings achieve all three!
Morning Brew
Can’t say I’ve been drinking all day without starting in the morning. A warm, spiked cup-a-Joe, a mild stick to burn, and Pan Dulce. Rise and shine!
My choice: Irish Coffee (Mild arabica coffee, Jameson Irish Whisky, honey, and whipped cream).
Hydration
Quick interjection here. With so much booze going around on this day of gluttony, it is of the utmost importance to pace yourself, have composure, and have an abundance of hydration.
Day-Drinkin’
After some hydration, let’s crack open the first beer! I’d opt for a crisp beer with some bitterness to wake the senses up a bit more. A traditional Pilsner works just fine here. A unique choice could also be a Flanders Red or a fruited sour to slap those taste buds awake if they are still asleep.
My choice: Smooth Translation Kölsch by Green Cheek
Lunch
It’s become something of a tradition now in our home. My father and I take an unconventional route for a light lunch and make Ceviche. The entire family munches on it around mid-day before my siblings and I begin to rotate in the kitchen making our assigned side dishes for dinner. For this, I reach for something with some acidity and a slight funk to complement the freshness of the Ceviche. A balanced Gueuze or similar with our Ceviche is one of my favorite pairings.
My choice: Spontanaheim 2020 by Bruery Terruex
Apéritif
My father and I love to exchange stories and enjoy a nice beer. After lunch, we have about an hour before the cooking begins. Something with character but take notice not to ruin your pallet. Bitterness tends to increase one’s appetite, so try not to reach for the IPA’s just yet.
My choice: Magic of the Moment German Pils by Radiant
Appetizer
Here is where some meats and cheeses come into play. I try to have variety on my charcuterie boards as to have something for everyone to enjoy. If you’re only doing some heavy cheeses (aged cheddars or rambunctious blues) you can bring out your hoppy Pales and IPA’s. The cutting power of the hops helps lift the fats and complements the unctuousness of some intense cheeses. There are plenty of amazing Pale’s and IPA’s out there if that’s what you’re looking for. A Wit is a wonderful pairing if you have prosciutto with goat cheese specifically. Something acidic will help cut through the fat of the goat and other fatty cheeses. If wine is your game, a well-aged German Riesling should work nicely here, too. This year we kept it simple with some medium-aged cheddar, piquant blue, creamy chèvre, and firm manchego. For these, a Pale over an IPA should be a friendlier pair, although the chèvre might cause a battle. I’ll sip the Riesling with that one.
My choices: 2012 Dr. Loosen German Riesling Kabinett, Big Star by Stereo
Intermezzo
Time to reset the palate and take a break before the big dinner. Pause for hydration and then a dry, crisp seltzer or a tart fruited kettle sour will do the trick. A few bites of a fresh fruit are welcomed here, too. Then, more water!
My choice: Fil’s Hard Lemonade Seltzer by Bearded Tang
Dinner
Argued in his book “The Brewmasters Table,” Garrett Oliver proclaims there is no other choice for Thanksgiving dinner than a Bière de Garde. The subtle sweetness in the beer, particularly in the darker versions, pairs perfectly with the poultry, the yeasty spices will latch on to the stuffing, and the carbonation will wash away the mouth-coating mashed potatoes and gravy. While a Saison, Belgian Strong Ale (Dark or Golden, depending on the food), or Tripel may prove suitable substitutes since local Bière de Garde’s are difficult to find, other malty styles can prove wonderful at the table. Brown Ales, Scottish Ales, American Ambers, Irish Reds, and malty Lagers like Märzen or Dunkel can hold their own just fine with this kind of meal. A Hazy Ale might yield an interesting result too if that’s a style you enjoy. This year, I’m going to be a bit daring and reach into my cellar for a tart beer with some age. It may backfire, but the dark fruit notes in one should complement the bird, salty side dishes should be tamed, and tangy acidity could cut through any fats and oils leftover.
My choice: Oude Tart with Cherries (2013) by The Bruery
Dessert
Sweetness in most desserts can easily cloy the palate. Therefore, coffee is usually the drink used to contrast this. It’s also why we can easily substitute espresso with a big, roasty Imperial Stout, particularly those barrel-aged and more naturally still if infused with coffee themselves. But things can get boring if you stick with the usual. Have fun with it! Traditional pumpkin pie? Try it with Barleywine or Scotch Ale to add some caramel flavors, non-barrel-aged coffee stouts with some residual sweetness to contrast (which is what I’ll do this year), or a spiced holiday beer to resonate with the pie. Pecan pie with a big beer like mentioned above to take on the stickiness. Don’t forget fruited sours. They can resonate wonderfully with some deserts. There are so many ways to go here. Just keep intensities equal and you’ll be alright. I’m looking forward each year to opening one of my favorite bourbon barrel-aged (BBA)stouts. This year we are having Cheesecake, as well. It may not be traditional, but a BBA Stout pairs well with them, especially if they have a cherry drizzle.
My choice: Darkstar November 2020 and Vlad the Barista
Digestif
Time to slow down. And the bloated gut and tryptophan may have something to do with it. Many select a coffee to keep from nodding off. Some prefer Brandy (like my Pops!). Others still prefer a cocktail or a glass of wine. All are great choices. It is all about what one enjoys, after all. I’ll be indulging with a dram of Scotch with notes of oranges marmalade, nutmeg, walnuts, and cinnamon to kickstart digestion.
My choice: The Dalmore 12 Year Single Malt Highland Scotch.
Cigars
I’ve lined up some sticks to have during the day if time allows for it. The only two where it is more certain than not are during the morning brew and at the end of the evening. For my morning coffee, I’d normally the smooth My Father Flor de las Antillas and for the Digestif at the end of the night to complement my Dalmore I was thinking to elected the succulent Oliva Serie V Meliano. But, I may dive into my stash of Cubans for this day. Not sure yet, but either way it will be pleasant and enjoyable.
It's almost time! There will undoubtedly be more to drink than what is listed here as these are just suggestions in the end. After not gathering in 2020, the anticipation for making up for that absence is, dare I say, palpable. The urge to celebrate will surely take over.
For those that are celebrating this year (safely! Please get those boosters!), have a wonderful Thanksgiving, my friends.
Cheers!
Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®
For those that are celebrating this year (safely! Please get those boosters!), have a wonderful Thanksgiving, my friends.
Cheers!
Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®
