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| Praguer Bohemian Pilsner from GameCraft Brewing Laguna Hills, CA. |
There has not been a more replicated and modified beer style than the Pilsner. The beer giants have their fair share of Pale American Lagers and similar products, but all fall short of their heritage. Some even have the word “Pilsner” on their labels, although they are different enough from their linage so that they now fall into a separate style. That’s not to say that they are bad beers as every beer style has its place. But a true Pilsner is simply a thing of beauty. Not only do we know where it originated, but we even have the dates! Furthermore, A genuine, old-world Pilsner (and/or other session beers) might be what keeps us at our pubs as our way of life begins to safely get back to a sense of normalcy.
Let’s dive into the history of the original pale golden lager, the Pilsner.
We start in the early 1800s in Bohemia, what is now modern-day Czechia. Due to the poor quality of the ale and it eventually would spoil from it just sitting around. This was further exacerbated by the cheaper, cleaner lagerbier that was being imported from neighboring areas. The native ale was so awful that in 1838 barrels were ordered to be dumped in the streets of Pilsen.
After some protests by the locals, a new brewery was commissioned and built complete with a malthouse. The new brewery also included the revolutionary way of kilning malt that was patented by Daniel Wheeler in England in 1818. Finally, Bavarian brewer, Joseph Groll, was hired to make things right. He brewed a batch of beer on Oct. 5 and released it on Nov. 11, 1842, to the residents of Pilsen. The Pilsner was born!
Note: The Czech Premium Pale Lager, as appropriately named in the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) guidelines, is more commonly referred to as Czech or Bohemian Pilsner. The preface Czech or Bohemian to the Pilsner from Czechia are interchangeable and is how this particular style will be referred as from here on out.
Pilsen is notorious for its soft water and it was a major contributing factor to the delicate flavors that resulted in the finished beer. Floor malting the barley created a unique constancy of the germinating grain that contributes to the dusty, bready flavor. The use of the new malt kilning technologies implemented was also a contributing aspect creating some very pale malt. Native Saaz hops imparted the unmistakable purfumy and spicy aroma notes. The result was a golden beer with soft, well-rounded bitterness, bready maltiness, and a clean and refreshing finish. A light butter note imparted by the compound diacetyl, which is usually an off-flavor, is not looked at negatively for the Czech Pilsners so long as it’s not overwhelming. It is not by all means required, however.
Quantitative properties (from BJCP) for the Premium versions of the Czech Pilsner are ABV: 4.2 – 5.8%, IBUs: 30 – 45, and SRM: 3.5 – 6. Standard versions have a bit lower properties such as ABV: 3.0 – 4.1%.
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| Bright Heights German Pilsner During Sunset Radiant Beer Co., Anaheim, CA. |
Germany soon began to create their versions of the pale lager. Beginning in about the 1870’s German breweries were starting to explore how to make Pilsner suit their water profiles. Specifically, in 1872, the Radeberger Brewery lays claim to the original in Germany. The German Pilsner, sometimes spelled Pilsener, but usually more simply as Pils, has two unofficial subcategories: Northern and Southern German Pils. The Northern style is drier, more bitter, and paler than the Southern versions. This is historically due to the higher levels of sulfates in the water. The Southern versions have a more pronounced hop aroma by contrast. Both are snappy and crispy, aided by the lightly killed Pilsner malt that gives a mellow cereal grain backbone for the floral, minty, and tea-like hops to take center stage.
Quantitative properties (from BJCP) for the German Pils are ABV: 4.4 – 5.2%, IBUs: 22 – 40, and SRM: 2 – 5.
A Kellerbier or Keller Pils is a kind of substyle found in the Franconian region of Bavaria. This is an unfiltered Pils and has a bit more complex than the customary crisp nature of a proper Pils. You may find these labeled as Ungespundet, and/or Naturtrüb, or Zwickel if not as Kellerbier. Usually the same quantitative properties as a German Pils.
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| Brewers Jon and Jerrod Admiring Dr. Filsner Pre-Prohibition Pilsner Bearded Tang, Stanton, CA. |
Migration of the lager-brewing tradition followed German immigrants wherever they went. The American Pilsner, pale lagers produced pre-prohibition (the style usually labeled as Pre-Prohibition Pilsner/Lager), were similar to their modern-day evolution; These are the forebears to the mass-market American Pale Lagers. Pre-Prohibition Pilsners were hopped with American hops native to the area such as Cluster and contained the addition of rice and/or corn sugar (dextrose) to contrast the use of higher-protein six-row barley that was in abundance in the US. Eventually, industrialization, Prohibition, and World Wars contributed to the more muted versions we see advertised during sporting events. In recent years, commercial examples of the American Pilsner or Pre-Prohibition Pilsner/Lager have become more available. The profile here is a blend of the old-world and their new-world evolution. The malt bed is neutral with a corn-like sweetness if present just as the American Pale Lager providing no covers for the earthy hops to lay on.
Italian Pilsners are quite comparable to the German-style but are dry-hopped. We can track the birth of the Italian-style Pils to a single brewery and beer that was produced more than 15 years ago, Birrifico Italiano’s Tipopils. Brewed in the German Pils tradition, which is not surprising since Birrifico Italiano is in Limido Comasco, Northern Italy with only Switzerland separating it from southern Germany. The choice of hops is very important as they need to impart the appropriate Noble Hop characters (spicy, minty, perfumy, and pleasant). Although, some American examples may use some citrusy hop varieties, so long as the fruit notes are not overpowering. More common in local examples are newer German hop varieties such as German Amarillo, Mandarina Bavaria, Polaris, Hallertau Blanc, and Hüll Melon.
As with Kellerbier, usually the same quantitative properties as a German Pils.
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| Stereo Pilsner, A Czech Pilsner Stereo Brewing, Placentia, CA. |
Italian Pilsner can be a versatile gateway beer for beer drinkers looking to explore new styles but who might need to ease into them. The hazy/juicy beer drinker might not gravitate to the brightness of a Munich Helles lager, but the Italian Pilsner retains the hop presence he or she may be used to, yet still enjoy the uplifting brilliance of the lager. Likewise, a light lager drinker may want to explore a hop-forward beer but has been put off by the intense bitterness of an IPA. An Italian Pilsner can serve as the missing link for that person.
Pouring a Pilsner appropriately is also something to consider. The “Slow Pour,” again more accurately aided by the side-pull Czech faucets but not required, is when the beer is poured into the glass right down the middle allowing it to foam up most of the way up the glass then the massive head is allowed to dissipate. The process is repeated two or three more times until one has a full glass of Pils with a pillowy cloud floating on top. The result is the absence of a substantial amount of dissolved Co2 that lends a softer texture and less filling Pils. This can be done with both Czech and German Pils.
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| Multiple Side-Pull Faucets Brewery X, Anaheim, CA. |
The Czech beer culture has a few different types of pours. This is aided by the faucet that has a side-pull handle that has amazing flow control. Also, these faucets are meant to be placed into the glass and into the beer, which goes against all modern wisdom on draught system cleanliness. There are others, but the most common types of pours are the Hladinka, Šnyt (pronounced “shnit”), and Mlíko. Hladinka is a traditional pour of two-thirds beer and a thick cap of foam. The faucet aids here by creating the head then pouring clear beer underneath it. Šnyt is half and half which is self-explanatory. The last and most interesting pour is Mlíko which is just about all soft and milky foam! A nice final pour after a night of Pilsner session drinking.
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| Slow-Pour Pilsner, A German Style Pils Bierstadt Lagerhaus, Denver, CO. |
Pilsner is a seamless partner with food, especially spicy Mexican dishes with its sharp bitterness and cutting carbonation. Spicy hop aromatics harmonize with ingredients like onion and cilantro. Delicate shellfish will not be overpowered by a true Pilsner. The burst of bitterness isn’t IPA levels, so the gentle flavors of lobster or crab will rush in as soon it passes. Buffalo Wings? Pilsner can help put out the fire. Salty dishes will be tamed by the bitter hop notes. Also, indulge yourself and serve a genuine Pilsner in flutes as an aperitif before dinner. A bit of bitterness tends to wake up the palate and encourage appetite. Plus, it looks cool and it makes Champagne jealous.
Craft/Independent commercial examples are everywhere. Local breweries are sure to have some available at some point, and most likely sooner rather than later. Locally here in Orange County (OC) frequent and occasional producers of Pilsner include GameCraft, Bearded Tang, Stereo, Brewery X, The Bruery, Green Cheek, Station Craft, Radiant, Flashpoint, Asylum, and so many more of our 60 breweries. It may turn into an entire list of OC breweries by pandemic’s end. More widely available commercial examples include Trumer, Bitburger, Radeberger, Paulaner Pilsner, Veltins, Czechvar, Pilsner Urquell, STS, and many more.
Lagers, led by the Pilsner, might be just what we need once we safely begin to finally congregate at our favorite watering holes at the rates we used to before the pandemic. Relatively low ABV and lively on the palate, yet not overpowering whatsoever will encourage session drinking with good company. It is unfortunate considering the circumstances, but after years of speculating and failed predictions, the pleasant Pilsner might, at last, be the next beer trend.
Prost! / Na zdraví!!
Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®
* Portions of this essay have been obtained, combined, added to, and/or modified from my previous publications on the subject for Orange Coast Magazine. *