Witbier: The Springtime Beer Revived by Pierre Celis

*Originally Posted March 21st, 2021*
*Updated March 21st, 2022, and March 20th, 2023*

Spring is here. The astronomical Spring Equinox usually lands on March 20th and marks the end of Winter. The warmer weather calls for an invigorating and refreshing beer. A well-known event in Germany and is celebrated with a Frühlingsfest (Spring Festival). Usually held later in spring towards the end of April, the invigorating Helles Bock (or Maibock) Lagerbier flows during this Oktoberfest teaser. While the malty German Lagerbier welcomes Spring appropriately enough, we head over to Belgium for the quintessential Springtime beer. We can thank a man born on March 21st, 1925, the first full day of spring 98 years ago.

In 1965, Pierre Celis overheard a conversation between two people reminiscing about white beers and how much they miss them. A milkman at the time, barely 5ft tall, Celis was hit by nostalgia himself. By the next year, 1966, Celis brewed the first of what is now the style we call Witbier. That’s the short of it (get it?). But, there is, oh, so much more to it.

Stepping into our beer-fueled time machine, Witbier, or White Beer, can be traced back to the 1300s in Leuven, Belgium (located about 15 miles east of Brussels) and the charming little town of Hoegaarden (10 or so miles south-east of Leuven). By 1851, documentation refers to three types of White Beer from this region. Leuven had a Wit or Blanche, and a darker version called Peeterman The Balance was noted as a pale, hazy, and frothy beer. Hoegaarden’s version was similar to the Louvain Blanche but described as more rustic.

All were also known to be infected by the lactic acid-producing bacteria Lactobacillus (or sometimes Pediococcus) with Hoegaarden being the sourest. An interesting aspect of this historical White Beers is the use of “wind malt” by the 1800s, This was malt allowed air-dry and was not kilned at all to impart the lightest color possible. Production included a large portion of unmalted wheat (up to 60% at times) and other grains such as oats. Brewing varied by type which included various other grains, mashing methods, and boil or no boil. The recorded use of spices was spotty, but it is known spices were indeed used, including Coriander and Curaçao (Bitter Orange) Peels. They all were cooled down in shallow, open-air vats called “coolships” overnight after brewing.

 

Considering the geographical location, ingredients, and process similarities, the old White Beers have some striking overlaps and parallels that could point to signs of relation to Lambic and Gose. The obvious connection is the spontaneous fermentation initiated by the open-air inoculation of bacteria via the coolships and the use of unmalted wheat. Lambics are aged for months or even years, while White Beers were served fresh at only a week or two. It can be argued that White Beer, particularly the Hoegaarden with its more antiquated process, was essentially a type of very young lambic. Gose also seemingly has a connection because of the historical use of Lauftmalz (“wind-malt”) and the notable presence of Coriander. Although there is no direct lineage on record, and Coriander may be leftover from when a blend of spices was common in all beer, it is interesting to think Gose and Wit might be related are related.

White beers began to decline during the first World War and continued to fall out of favor after the second, especially with the rise of the industrial lager. By 1957, the last remaining White Beer brewery, Tomsin Brewery, closed. Serendipitously, this was the same brewery Celis spent a brief time working at in his younger days. Celis, in 1966, installed a brewery in a cowshed with the help of a retired Hoegaarden brewer. The Hoegaarden beer and Witbier style was born, brewed for the first time in, you guessed it, March. It was not a replica of the old White Beers, but its refreshing, spritzy qualities grew modestly until 1985. Tragically, a fire that same year all but destroyed the brewery. To rebuild, Celis sold the majority holdings to Artois for the capital to rebuild. By 1990, Celis retired and sold the remaining stake to Hoegaarden.

Side note: Artios acquired by Interbrew; Interbrew and AmBev merged to form InBev; InBev partnered with Anheuser-Busch to form AB-InBev, which is the current conglomerate as of this post.

Celis relocated to Texas and opened Celis Brewing. After closing briefly in 2000 and the brand sold, it has since returned to Austin complete with a brewery, tasting room, and daughter Christine Celis as the owner. Aside from some hiccups that hit the pocketbook and the recent pandemic-related closure, Celis Brewing is still open and pouring. Pierre Celis has also had a hand in improving other famous Wit’s, including the rendition by St. Bernardus.

Pierre passed away on April 9th, 2011 at the age of 86.

The ingredients for Witbier still resemble its ancient roots. Unmalted Wheat at about 50% and pale malt make up the remaining bill with raw Oats at around 5 – 10% is acceptable. The Unmalted Wheat and Oats add proteins to promote haze and texture as well as encourage a white-ish complexion. Hops tend to play a background note if at all. Yeast is spicy, yet mellow compared to other prototypical Belgian styles. Variety is the spice of life and Witbier holds to that sentiment, in more ways than one. Typical Witbier spices include Coriander and Curaçao Peels, but it is not held to doctrine. Other spices include Ginger, Chamomile, or other Tea Leaves, Grains of Paradise, Lime or Lemon Zest, Cumin, Cinnamon, Lemongrass, and Black Pepper. So long as they are restrained and not overtly obvious, practically any spice is fair game. Some Lactic Acid is also a welcomed addition.

Bitterness is low at no more than 20 IBU’s typically and ABV is average at 4.5 – 5.5%. Color is a straw yellow with a milky yet not fully opaque cloak that should have a long-lasting fluffy white head of foam.

Witbier is just about the perfect way to objectify the feeling of a cool ocean breeze hitting your skin on a warm summer evening. Honey, vanilla, lemony, tangerines, and grains hit your nose. Flavors of cereal, orange peels, white flowers, snappy spice, and a zesty lemony zing. Finishing dry and sometimes with a refreshing acidic twang. Highly carbonated with an almost chewy, creamy texture.

Hoegaarden is still widely available and is still a good representation of what a Witbier should be. Apart from Celis White, other good examples to try that are wonderful, if not perfect, representations of the style are Allagash White, Avery’s White Rascal, Einstok’s Icelandic White Ale, St. Bernardus Wit, and (don’t hate) Blue Moon. Closer to home (Orange County, CA), San Juan Capistrano's Docent Brewing offers Luna as a wonderful example made with toasted orange peels. Radiant Brewing out of Anaheim has Blank Slate that shines with lemon, tea, and grainy flavors. Bearded Tang’s Witbier named Wit? Has beautiful elegant fragrances and classic flavors. Tustin Brewing Company’s Starting at Wit’s End begins with the familiar notes but finishes with a snappy minerality. Green Cheek and others have produced Witbier in the recent past so keep an eye out.

 
The best thing about Witbier is how food-friendly it is. Ricotta and fresh goat cheese pair seamlessly with Witbier as do preparations with Feta. Slather up some ricotta on toasted sourdough, drizzle a bit of honey, and crack some black pepper over it for a wonderful mid-morning snack to accompany your Witbier. A goat cheese omelet on a warm spring or summer morning is perfect. Keep it going for lunch. Salads? Yes, nearly all of them! Especially with tangy or lemony dressings. Try Witbier paired with baby greens salad made with spinach, arugula, oak leaf lettuce, mizuna, and frisée salad tossed in a honey-lemon vinaigrette topped with goat cheese, toasted almonds, and dried cranberries. Witbier and brunch will put your mimosa to shame. Citrus and cilantro-laden Mexican or Thai dishes match up perfectly with the spices and acidity of Witbier. Seafood such as Seared Scallops or Pan-fired Shrimp Tossed in Lemon-Garlic Butter is no sweat for Witbier. And, of course, Sushi! An absolutely brilliant match with the grains and citrus acidity lending itself to the fish meat while the coriander and ginger echo each other. The delicate nature of the beer matches the fineness of sushi. It is no wonder why Witbier has found a comfortable second home in Japan.

There you have it. Spring has arrived and this beer style welcomes in the season's warmer weather perfectly. As you enjoy a Witbier with the knowledge you now have, remember the man that revived this style nearly a century ago. If it wasn’t for Pierre Celis, the Witbier would only be referred to as an ancient beer style. He may be gone, but his legacy continues with every effervescent, perfumey, and refreshingly satisfying glass of Witbier.

He would have been 98 this year. Happy birthday, good Sir. And, thank you.

Pierre Celis

(March 21, 1925 – April 9, 2011)

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

 

References/Resources:

Allen, F. (2018). Gose: Brewing a Classic German Beer for the Modern Era. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Hieronymus, S. (2010). Brewing with Wheat: The ‘Wit’ and ‘Weizen’ of World Wheat Beer Styles. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Oliver, G. (2003). The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food. HarperCollins.

Sparrow, J. (2005). Wild Brews: Beer Beyond the Influences of Brewer’s Yeast. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Photo of Pierre Celis obtained from Wikipedia on March 21'st 2021: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Celis

All other photos by the author.