Kölsch – The German Ale/Lagerbier

Kölschkranz of Gaffel Kölsch. Image by Gaffel.

*This is an updated essay -added to, and/or modified- from previous publications, authored by me, on the subject elsewhere*

It is no secret that Germany is famous for Lagerbier. It is the county of origin for the balanced Helles, consumed by the liter at Biergarten during summer in Bavaria. Also, home to the semi-sweet Dunkel, toasty Märzen & Festbier, and bready Doppelbock. But Lager is not the only family of beers Germany is known for. Whether historically or because of the climate, various German Ales exist; in certain regions, these styles are preferred over any Lager. Weissbier (or Hefeweizen as it is known here in the States) was arguably the most popular and most recognizable. Kölsch, however, was once a lesser-known surviving German Ale example that keeps alluring beer drinkers.

This beer style gets its name from the city it originated from, Köln (Cologne). As a beer style, Kölsch was not always as we know it today. Before modern refrigeration, Northern Germany brewed dark Ales that we now refer to as Alt (Old in German), referring to beers produced in the old or traditional way. In other words, beers fermented by Ale yeast. Laws in the region also played a part in shaping the golden-colored crisp German Ale.

The predecessor to what eventually evolved into the now famous Reinheitsgebot was enacted in 1516 in Bavaria to the south. The famous Purity Law was not originally written for any regulations on beer ingredients. It was not referred to as the Reinheitsgebot until a few centuries later. It was, in basic terms, an attempt to stabilize the price of grain. However, it did have an impact on brewers. A few decades later in 1553, the state of Bavaria outlawed brewing during summer months, laying down the groundwork for Lager brewing eventually taking over.

Up north in Köln in 1603, to preserve their brewing tradition and beer quality, a similar decree was passed that outlawed Lager brewing. Some have speculated this was done in direct response to the actions in Bavaria, while the timing may only be a coincidence. The more logical reason is that Northern Germany's clement is warmer and more suitable for Ale yeast fermentation conditions.

It took until the very early 1900s for the term Kölsch to take hold and designate the style that comes out of that city. World War I saw grain rationing, resulting in a drop in alcohol to the Kölsch. Taxation afterward kept the style from prospering and World War II nearly leveled the entire city. That may have rendered the Kölsch as a style now lost, but a couple of decades later saw a resurgence of the style as new brewpubs began to be constructed and Kölsch started to flow again.

Fast forward to the late 20th century. The brewers in Köln convened to distinguish their beer in the mid-1980s via the Kölsch Konvention, an agreement on what a Kölsch should be, down the type of yeast. We now have technological advancements in yeast cultivation, sanitation, and malt production. While the brewers in Düsseldorf took to perfecting the dark Ale now known as Altbier using toasty and bready Munich malt, Köln implemented the use of newer, paler malts such as Pilsner malt.

Although both Altbier and Kölsch are brewed with Ale yeast, the fermentation temperature is cooler than what Ale yeast normally desires. This results in a clean fermentation profile typically produced by Lager yeast. Both are then matured cold (Lagered) after primary fermentation to secure the appropriate gentle flavors. The two styles are known as hybrids; They are not quite Lagers and are not quite Ales. Some Kölsch brewers and drinkers have a name for this. Obergäriges Lagerbier, meaning Top-fermenting Lagerbier.

Everyone, the Kölsch by Everywhere Beer Co in Orange, CA

Kölsch is served in specific glassware called Stange (Pronounced SH-tahng-uh, which translates to stick). These Kölner Stange only hold 0.2L (200ml or about 6.5oz, 6.76oz to be exact) to ensure you finish your beer before it gets too warm. This must keep the bartenders and servers busy in the beer halls. Servers, called Köbes, will carry about 20 of them on specially designed trays called a Kölschkranz (Kranz means Wreath) over their heads or by its handle. The Köbes will continuously drop Kölsch off often before you are about to take your last sip. Or as Herr Bleister, Köbe for Früh (video link below) so clearly puts it, "Colognian people don't order beer. They just get it." A simple tick mark by a pen or marker will indicate how much you have consumed in your session. When you have had enough and they are about to drop off a cold and fresh Kölsch, there is no need to say, “No thank you.” Just place the coaster on top of the glass. That tells them you are done and ready to pay your tab.

A traditional Kölsch is brilliantly clear, clean, and pale gold in color. High carbonation levels result in an attractive, frothy white head and carry lots of refined hop aromatics for your note to pick out. Subtle Pils malt and some gentle fruit characters derived from the yeast are usually found, but not overpowering. The palate is soft, elegant, and pleasantly dry after a creaminess in the center, freshly cracked bread, and a snappy bitterness with an underlying vinous trait. Examples from Köln might impart a minerality from regional water hardness that may prove difficult to replicate by local examples, but it is not impossible.

Quantitative properties, based on the BJCP (Beer Judge Certification Program), are as follows, based on current guidelines as of this publication.

ABV: 4.4 - 5.2%
SRM: 3.5 - 5.0
IBU: 18 - 30

Pair with light salads, delicate fish with lots of citrus, or simple shellfish preparations for a pleasant meal experience. The mild temperament of the Kölsch will not overpower the flavors in your dish while the bready notes latch on to some of the earthy aspects of the meal. Sushi, with its delicate nature, meets Kölsch on the palate without any struggle. Cheeses with creamy textures, and earthy, savory notes such as brie aren’t afraid to take on a Kölsch. Gruyère and Comté are fine also partners, taking in all the nutty, peppery, buttery notes bridging with the snappy hops and light fruitiness. Take a salad with hard-boiled eggs and diced ham. Don’t be afraid to grab a Kölsch for brunch, either. Kölsch is just mild enough to not overpower those eggs benedict and can withstand any heaty meats on your plate. Of course, sausages are a wonderful pairing with the grains harmonizing with the pork flavors while the hop bitterness will tone down the salinity letting the savoriness shine. Carbonation scrubs any fat and oils away and lifts them off your tongue like a grease interceptor to help you reset for the next bite.

Kölsch Service at Green Cheek, Orange, CA

Many fine examples exist here in the US. I encourage looking for an independent brewery near you and experience this hybrid Ale/Lager style. Around Orange County, Green Cheek regularly offers a Kölsch-style by one name or another, Everywhere Beer Co’s Everyone, Stereo re-released their Kraftwerk Kölsch, and Bearded Tang’s Cologne Shark are excellent, sparkling representations of the style. Tour Time by Brewery X in Anaheim is nice, although it often displays more hop aromatics than usual. Be on the lookout for others in Orange County that regularly produce Kölsch, like Bottle Logic and others, as beer boards change daily sometimes, and try this versatile style.

Worthy of note, as of this publication update, Green Cheek, Everywhere, and Stereo periodically offer “Kölsch Service.” Check their availability, but it’s an excellent way to experience the Kölsch beer-drinking culture here in OC. Surely more will follow (nudge, nudge, brewery owners, and tasting room managers). See you out there!

Prost!

-Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

References

"Cologne, Land of the Kölsch." YouTube, uploaded by germanytourism, January 6, 2016, https://youtu.be/TFO0C9-Omio

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Amato, M. (2014). Beerology: Everything You Need to Know to Enjoy Beer… Even More. Appetite by Random House.

Dornbusch, H. D. (1997). Prost! The Story of German Beer. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Herz, J., Conley, G. (2015). Beer Pairing: The Essential Guide from the Pairing Pros. Voyageur Press.

McCalman, M., Gibbons, D. (2009). Mastering Cheese: Lessons for Connoisseurship from a Maître Fromager. Clarkson Potter.

Oliver, G. (2003). The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food. HarperCollins.

Oliver, G. (2012). The Oxford Companion to Beer. Oxford University Press.

Talley, J. (2017). Session Beers: Brewing for Flavors and Balance. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association.