The Savior: Liquid Bread Lagerbiers from Helles and Bock

*Portions of this essay have been obtained, added to, and/or modified from previous publications I authored on this subject matter elsewhere.*

*Current update: 12/3/2023*

#DrinkMoreDoppelbock

We’ve all heard beer referred to as liquid bread once or twice. This analogy can fit many styles such as a Bavarian Weissbier. But the Bock Lagerbier family of beer styles have a greater affinity to liquid bread than any other.

Lent begins today (for those who participate), and the Doppelbock has a direct connection to that monastic practice, too. This beer style is often said to have originated in Munich, and monks are credited for its creation. Although technically true, the origin story begins in northern Germany, and the monks were from another European country.

The Bockbier family and some other well-known German lager styles are also synonymous with seasons along with significant occasions. As the late-great beer writer Michael Jackson said on the motivating program The Beer Hunter, “a beer for every season. And an occasion for every beer... In Bavaria they say the year has five seasons; the fifth season has its official start here, at the beginning of May with the appearance of the rich, dark, powerful brew.”

He was referring to the Helles Bock, or Maibock, or sometimes called "Frühlingsbock"
(Spring Bock). The Helles Bock gets tapped while the weather is still warming up and might still have days of cool weather in May when spring is in full bloom, but it is no longer snowing. Summer arrives and we have the Munich Helles being chugged by the litter's full in Biergarten's across Bavaria. Fall brings out the partygoers when the Märzen/Festbier is tapped and the Oktoberfest celebration occurs. Winter ushers in the Christmas Bock or "Weihnachtsbock,” which we know here as traditional Bockbier or Dunkles Bock. And finally, around Ash Wednesday to Easter during the first quarter of the year (give or take) when winter still has a firm grip, we have Doppelbock.

Chrismas Bock by Enegren

Bockbier is under the German tax law as Starkbier, Strong Beer. These beers are at least 6% ABV. All Bockbier, including some not mentioned in this post, is Starkbier according to the tax law. Starkbierzeit (Strong Beer Season) is when the strongest beers show up, usually around Lent, and Maibock serves as the changeover from Starkbierzeit to early summer drinking in Biergarten's.

The story of Maibock, Bockbier, and Doppelbock begins in the city of Einbeck, located in northern Germany, in the mid-1500s. Einbeck was a thriving trade city, and its specialty trade item was beer. This ale was made with lightly kilned barley & wheat and was generously hopped. Einbeck's beer made its way into many cities including Munich. The ruling family of Bavaria was particularly fond of the Einbeck brew. Plenty of money was being spent on this beer and this caught the attention of the royals, the Wittelsbach’s. Some brewmasters from Einbeck were brought to Munich in 1540 to teach the Munich brewers a thing or two.

It is reasonable to believe that this is what prompted Duke Wilhelm V to construct the now-infamous Hofbräuhaus in 1589-90. By about 1610, Einbecker was being produced by the royals and sold to some of the public as well.

In 1612, Duke Maximillian I, Wilhelm V’s successor, convinced (perhaps coerced?) well-regarded Einbeck brewer Elias Pichler to move down to Munich and improve the Einbecker clones which were not living up to the northern originals. Pichler refined the brew to fit the parameters set forth about 100 years prior (The Reinheitsgebot, see the previous post). This meant the Einbecker no longer contained wheat malt as this was reserved for special beers made for the royal family and took advantage of the lagering tactics that were already well established by Munich brewers. The resulting beer was released at the Hofbräuhaus in 1614 and it was referred to as brewed the “Einbeck way.” It has been claimed that this was not only the first Bockbier but also the birth of Maibock.

Hofbräu Maibock

Now to discuss the monks. In 1627, they came marching in from Italy (yes, Italy!) over the Alps and took home near Munich. These monks were from the order of St. Francis of Paula. They began brewing shortly after arriving. These Franciscan monks established the Paulaner Brewery in 1634 and lay claim to the Doppelbock style. However, it went by another, more divine name.

As with most devout Catholics, Lent was taken very seriously. During this time, the monks would not eat solid food, and only liquid was allowed to be ingested. With Lent being the longest period of fasting for them, plenty of liquid would be consumed, most of which was the Bockbier they were already experts at producing.

Over time, the monks sought out the blessing from the Pope himself to consume such a wonderful beverage during Lent. The story goes that the beer arrived in a sour state after the long travel and the Pope was appalled by it. Not knowing it was infected, he gave them permission thinking they would never drink it. While the validity of this part of the story needs a pinch of salt, it would be reasonable to think it is at least partially true.

Upon the pontiff's approval, Bockbiers got stronger. This was figuratively liquid bread for the Paulaner monks. It was only natural the beer was referred to as “Salvator,” as in “The Savior,” for obvious reasons. In 1780, Paulaner was finally granted permission to brew commercially.

After the brewery came under Napoleon’s control in 1799, it lay in shambles until 1806 when it was rented by a brewer by the name of Franz Zacheri, who ultimately purchased it by 1813. Following a stretch of legal battles, in 1837 King Ludwig I finally permitted Zacheri to brew “Salvator” without obstruction. Clones were soon being produced by other breweries. The Schmederer brothers, Zacheri’s heirs, wisely trademarked “Salvator” in 1896. Paulaner is now the only one that can use the name “Salvator” for its Doppelbock. This is why we see other Doppelbocks with names such as Celebrator or Optimator keeping the “-ator” suffix since they cannot use the original name.

Celebrator Wall Mural at Ayinger
Aying, Germany

The Dunkles Bock eventually became the winter season's Starkbier. As with many other Lagerbiers and ales, the Helles Bock evolved into its current incarnation as a relatively pale lager (compared to the other Lager Bockbiers) sometime after the introduction of the Czech Premium Pale Lager, better known as the Czech or Bohemian Pilsner, in the mid to late 1800s.

A note on how “Bockbier” got its name: It is widely believed and accepted that it is a manipulation of the word “Einbeck” in the Bavarian dialect. This would make the word sound like “Ayn pock” and eventually evolved to “ein bock” (one bock). “Bock” is also the word for “buck” or “goat” in German, explaining why so many versions of Bockbier display goats on their labels.

That is quite ironic when you consider the development of the Doppelbock style as a byproduct of a testament of faith, yet the goat has some satanic symbolism in those same faith-based religions. Now, that’s metal! Moving on...

Continuing the language theme, German grammar incorporates genders into nouns. One may use Heller Bock or Helles Bock, and both are correct. (Applicable to Dunkler Bock and Dunkles Bock, too). Beer itself has a neuter gender, "das Bier." Bock, or goat, is a masculine, "der Bock." Depending on how one refers to the beer, either as the style or a goat will dictate what gender it is. Masculine: der Heller/Dunkler Bock. Or neuter: das Helles/Dunkles Bock.

Maibocks are flavorful with lots of rising bread aromas but be cautious at that seemingly gentle touch. They span from about 6.3% to 7.4% ABV and colors range from deep gold to amber. Aromas of freshly baked bread, dark caramel, honey, and a delicate spicy hop note in the background. On the palate, you will get toast, slight toffee sweetness, rounding off with a modest bitterness, and a clean lager, semi-dry finish.

Dunkles Bock and Doppelbocks are amazing and flavorful, but be cautious at that seemingly gentle touch. Dunkles Bocks are 6.3% to 7.2% ABV and colors range from copper to auburn. Doppelbocks are beers made for sippin’ as they span from about 7.0% to 10.0% ABV. Colors range from mahogany to deep garnet to almost black in some examples. Both Doppelbock and Dunkles Bock have similar tasting profiles with the latter being slightly less rich in perception and parameters. Aromas are almost like rising bread in the oven. On the palate, you’ll get toasty and bready notes, slight caramel and toffee sweetness, finishing off with moderate bitterness and a clean lager character. The darker versions have some chocolate flavors, too. Silky, full, and round on the tongue and finishes cozy and clean.

All Bockbiers are brewed (historically, at least) using the decoction method where portions of the mash are boiled and added back to the mash to reach desired temperatures. This creates a rich, complex Mallard reaction to the finished beer. Then benefit from extended Lagering to round out the flavors. (More on Lagerbier here!)

A quick blirb on Eisbock. These Bockbiers not only originate outside of Munich, but they are also the peculiar ones of the family. The story goes, according to Kulmbacher, in 1890 a brewer forgot a couple of barrels filled with Bockbier that were supposed to go into the cellar. They instead endured the cold Franconian winter under snow and ice. When they were finally exposed in the spring, the water from the beer had frozen, expanded, and burst the barrels. The frozen liquor that was left was a concentrated concoction. Due to the freeze distillation, Eisbock's can reach upwards of 15% ABV with more richness than the most robust Doppelbock. Tread carefully!

Enjoying Aventinus Eisbock while in Munich

If you are not the fasting type, Maibocks are wonderful partners with food. They bring malty, toastiness with firm bitterness to the table. They are similar but more restrained to their stronger brethren (Dunkles Bock and Doppelbock) yet share many similar flavor notes with the Märzen, while having more strength. The food pairings reflect some overlap because of this. Game meats such as venison or wild boar with fruit sauces are great complements to both the meat and the sweet malt character of the beer. Steaks, backyard burgers, ham, sausages, and some barbeque will match the intensity, toasty malts and meat find affinity, and hops cut through any sweetness or lingering fats. For dessert, white chocolate cheesecake is a tried-and-true pairing.

Dunkles Bock and Doppelbock also pair with game meats such as venison or wild boar. Fruit sauces are great complements to both the meat and the sweet malt character of the beer. For an interesting combination, try Doppelbock with earthy, smoky Mexican dishes such as Oaxacan Mole. Don’t stop with the main course and try a caramel flan for dessert with Ayinger's Celebrator.

If you want to pair cheese with any of the Bockbiers, reach for Swiss Gruyère, smoked goudas, or Hoja Santa. No need for any bread or crackers as the beer provides the perfect compliment with all the toasty and nutty flavors to hug the cheese. For a unique experience, pair Doppelbock with a Triple Crème Cheese like Saint-Andre or Cowgirl's Mt Tam and when they meet on the palate, I dare you not to taste chocolate cheesecake.

Should you feel brave, serve Dunkles Bock and Helles Bock in a traditional 1-liter dimpled mug (Maß) at 40°F and take your time with it. Doppelbocks require half-liter mugs and smaller glassware for Eisbocks so we can remain coherent... responsible, in other words. Or embrace the elegance of this lager and serve it in a stylish wine glass, chalice, or goblet a bit warmer, about 45°F, pair with a meal, and enjoy what the monks gave us.

Prost!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

*All photos by me*

References:

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Amato, M. (2014). Beerology: Everything You Need to Know to Enjoy Beer… Even More. Appetite by Random House.

Dornbusch, H. D. (1997). Prost! The Story of German Beer. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Herz, J., Conley, G. (2015). Beer Pairing: The Essential Guide from the Pairing Pros. Voyageur Press.

Kraus-Weyermann, T., Dornbusch, H. D. (2018). Dark Lagers: History, Mystery, Brewing Techniques, Recipes. Master Brewers Associations of the Americas (MBAA).

McCalman, M., Gibbons, D. (2009). Mastering Cheese: Lessons for Connoisseurship from a Maître Fromager. Clarkson Potter.

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