Thanksgiving 2021: A Sense of Normal with a Feast for the Senses

What a past couple of years they have been. Not at all what we all were hoping for or wanted or may have predicted, I’m certain of that. But we can at least take a day to feel thankful for the little things and be hopeful for a light at the end of this virus-laden tunnel.

A quick digression: The history of this Holiday is unquestionably disturbing, and the day is also one of respect to our Natives. While some may demonstrate thanks to a deity or in a secular fashion as I do, let’s please also pay respects and not ignore the unfortunate past.

Last year, 2020, I tested positive for COVID-19 early in November. This meant a couple of things. One, thanksgiving was initially going to be a bit delayed while I was isolated for two weeks. And two, my sense of taste and smell was muted (a common symptom of the SARS-CoV-2 virus) and research proved correct with me as it did take a while for them to return.

How can one enjoy this day when the wonderful aromas and tastes all resemble the same bland flavor? I can’t begin to express how upset this makes me...

Needless to say, last year we had a virtual dinner apart from each other for everyone’s safety.

Well, it’s 2021 now, we are all fully vaxed, keeping the gathering to immediate family, and we will give this whatever-normal-is-now a try. This year’s dinner lineup contains a few surprises some may find it interesting, and some may find it odd. In the spirit of coming together, I think this is the one way, if nothing else, I can symbolically set aside differences to encourage acceptance, tolerance, and the motivation to endure these past stressful 19+ months.

In this comprehensive post, I’ll outline the itinerary for this flavor playground I get to play in once a year. Just a bit further down is the projected lineup for this year with the food pairings that my siblings and I will make for our family. Use these as suggestions, not as dogma, and explore what suits your palate.

A quick note on pairing food and beer. First and most importantly, remember to match the intensity of both. The impact on the palate of each one should be about equal. Then, play with interactions between flavors; sweet, salt, sour, bitter, umami, and emerging flavors/sensations such as fat and carbonations. Use these interactions to achieve the so-called three C’s; Cut, Contrast, and Compliment. Cut can be referred to as Cleanse. Carbonation (The 4th C?), Bitterness, and/or Acidity can act as a cutting agent. Contrast is best explained as opposites attract. Flavors contrast to create a pleasant or unique experience. Think sweet and sour, for example. Compliment refers to common flavors, affinity, or harmonizing two or more flavors in a dance. Think about the char on grilled meats (Millard reaction) and roasted malts.

A good pairing might only target one, a better pairing might accomplish two, but some of the best pairings achieve all three!

Morning Brew

Can’t say I’ve been drinking all day without starting in the morning. A warm, spiked cup-a-Joe, a mild stick to burn, and Pan Dulce. Rise and shine!

My choice: Irish Coffee (Mild arabica coffee, Jameson Irish Whisky, honey, and whipped cream).

Hydration

Quick interjection here. With so much booze going around on this day of gluttony, it is of the utmost importance to pace yourself, have composure, and have an abundance of hydration.

Day-Drinkin’

After some hydration, let’s crack open the first beer! I’d opt for a crisp beer with some bitterness to wake the senses up a bit more. A traditional Pilsner works just fine here. A unique choice could also be a Flanders Red or a fruited sour to slap those taste buds awake if they are still asleep.

My choice: Smooth Translation Kölsch by Green Cheek

Lunch

It’s become something of a tradition now in our home. My father and I take an unconventional route for a light lunch and make Ceviche. The entire family munches on it around mid-day before my siblings and I begin to rotate in the kitchen making our assigned side dishes for dinner. For this, I reach for something with some acidity and a slight funk to complement the freshness of the Ceviche. A balanced Gueuze or similar with our Ceviche is one of my favorite pairings.

My choice: Spontanaheim 2020 by Bruery Terruex

Apéritif

My father and I love to exchange stories and enjoy a nice beer. After lunch, we have about an hour before the cooking begins. Something with character but take notice not to ruin your pallet. Bitterness tends to increase one’s appetite, so try not to reach for the IPA’s just yet.

My choice: Magic of the Moment German Pils by Radiant

Appetizer

Here is where some meats and cheeses come into play. I try to have variety on my charcuterie boards as to have something for everyone to enjoy. If you’re only doing some heavy cheeses (aged cheddars or rambunctious blues) you can bring out your hoppy Pales and IPA’s. The cutting power of the hops helps lift the fats and complements the unctuousness of some intense cheeses. There are plenty of amazing Pale’s and IPA’s out there if that’s what you’re looking for. A Wit is a wonderful pairing if you have prosciutto with goat cheese specifically. Something acidic will help cut through the fat of the goat and other fatty cheeses. If wine is your game, a well-aged German Riesling should work nicely here, too. This year we kept it simple with some medium-aged cheddar, piquant blue, creamy chèvre, and firm manchego. For these, a Pale over an IPA should be a friendlier pair, although the chèvre might cause a battle. I’ll sip the Riesling with that one.

My choices: 2012 Dr. Loosen German Riesling Kabinett, Big Star by Stereo

Intermezzo

Time to reset the palate and take a break before the big dinner. Pause for hydration and then a dry, crisp seltzer or a tart fruited kettle sour will do the trick. A few bites of a fresh fruit are welcomed here, too. Then, more water!

My choice: Fil’s Hard Lemonade Seltzer by Bearded Tang

Dinner

Argued in his book “The Brewmasters Table,” Garrett Oliver proclaims there is no other choice for Thanksgiving dinner than a Bière de Garde. The subtle sweetness in the beer, particularly in the darker versions, pairs perfectly with the poultry, the yeasty spices will latch on to the stuffing, and the carbonation will wash away the mouth-coating mashed potatoes and gravy. While a Saison, Belgian Strong Ale (Dark or Golden, depending on the food), or Tripel may prove suitable substitutes since local Bière de Garde’s are difficult to find, other malty styles can prove wonderful at the table. Brown Ales, Scottish Ales, American Ambers, Irish Reds, and malty Lagers like Märzen or Dunkel can hold their own just fine with this kind of meal. A Hazy Ale might yield an interesting result too if that’s a style you enjoy. This year, I’m going to be a bit daring and reach into my cellar for a tart beer with some age. It may backfire, but the dark fruit notes in one should complement the bird, salty side dishes should be tamed, and tangy acidity could cut through any fats and oils leftover.

My choice: Oude Tart with Cherries (2013) by The Bruery

Dessert

Sweetness in most desserts can easily cloy the palate. Therefore, coffee is usually the drink used to contrast this. It’s also why we can easily substitute espresso with a big, roasty Imperial Stout, particularly those barrel-aged and more naturally still if infused with coffee themselves. But things can get boring if you stick with the usual. Have fun with it! Traditional pumpkin pie? Try it with Barleywine or Scotch Ale to add some caramel flavors, non-barrel-aged coffee stouts with some residual sweetness to contrast (which is what I’ll do this year), or a spiced holiday beer to resonate with the pie. Pecan pie with a big beer like mentioned above to take on the stickiness. Don’t forget fruited sours. They can resonate wonderfully with some deserts. There are so many ways to go here. Just keep intensities equal and you’ll be alright. I’m looking forward each year to opening one of my favorite bourbon barrel-aged (BBA)stouts. This year we are having Cheesecake, as well. It may not be traditional, but a BBA Stout pairs well with them, especially if they have a cherry drizzle.

My choice: Darkstar November 2020 and Vlad the Barista

Digestif

Time to slow down. And the bloated gut and tryptophan may have something to do with it. Many select a coffee to keep from nodding off. Some prefer Brandy (like my Pops!). Others still prefer a cocktail or a glass of wine. All are great choices. It is all about what one enjoys, after all. I’ll be indulging with a dram of Scotch with notes of oranges marmalade, nutmeg, walnuts, and cinnamon to kickstart digestion.

My choice: The Dalmore 12 Year Single Malt Highland Scotch.

Cigars

I’ve lined up some sticks to have during the day if time allows for it. The only two where it is more certain than not are during the morning brew and at the end of the evening. For my morning coffee, I’d normally the smooth My Father Flor de las Antillas and for the Digestif at the end of the night to complement my Dalmore I was thinking to elected the succulent Oliva Serie V Meliano. But, I may dive into my stash of Cubans for this day. Not sure yet, but either way it will be pleasant and enjoyable.

It's almost time! There will undoubtedly be more to drink than what is listed here as these are just suggestions in the end. After not gathering in 2020, the anticipation for making up for that absence is, dare I say, palpable. The urge to celebrate will surely take over.

For those that are celebrating this year (safely! Please get those boosters!), have a wonderful Thanksgiving, my friends.

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

The History of Oktoberfest: The Duke's, the Sedlmayr's, and the Wedding.

Autumn. It’s the most wonderful time of the year… for beer. The weather is finally cooling down, the leaves begin to change and fall, and the malty lagers begin to emerge. In the beer culture, Oktoberfest, both the party and the beer that bears its name, are synonymous with the fall season. Nothing is more comforting than a giant mug of beer and consuming the golden liquid while toasting the person next to you.

The story of Oktoberfest is one of the most repeated tales in the beer world that is quite accurate if told in its very basic form. But there are two parallel narratives, one regarding the beer and one about the annual celebration, to explore.

Ready? Grab a beer. Here we go.

A good starting point is the enactment of the Reinheitsgebot. On April 23rd, 1516, Duke of Bavaria, Wilheim IV, a member of the royal Wittelsbach family, decreed what will eventually be the longest still-standing brewing standard we now refer to as the German Purity Law. Although beer was not the focus of the decree (more about it here), it did lay the foundation for Lagerbier.

Mother Nature assisted in Lageriber’s firm grip in Bavaria before the next proclamation. Climatologists agree there was a “Little Ice Age” that began no later than 1550 that dropped the average temperatures by a degree or so. It may sound insignificant, but it was enough to be noticed all over Europe until temperatures stabilized around 1850.

In 1553, Wilheim’s successor and son, Duke Albrecht V, outlawed brewing in the summer months due to the inconsistent beers being produced during these warmer months. The dates Albrecht chose were April 23rd, the original date of his father’s proclamation, to September 29th. They didn't understand why, yet they knew fermentation and cold storage (lager) done in the colder months of the year resulted in higher quality beers.

The Munich Dunkel Lagerbier origin as a beer style can be traced back to these events.

Brewers stepped up production beginning in March into April and brewed plenty of beer to be stored away. These beers were quite strong, dark, and well hopped. Kept in cool caves, they eventually mellowed out. They eventually became known as Märzenbier (March beer).

Incongruent with the new harvest, brewing would begin again in late September or early October. Evidence shows that the remaining Märzenbiers were consumed in mass quantities to free up the casks for the upcoming brewing season. Not exactly a party or celebration, still a good time as one could imagine.

Duke Wilheim V, the next Wittelsbach to reign, would construct a royal brewery in Munich in 1589. The location still stands as an enormous, touristy pub and the brewery name is recognizable; The Hofbräuhaus.

Fast-forward to 1807. Gabriel Sedlmayr (the Elder), Master Brewer to the royal court of Bavaria, obtains a small brewery in Munich, the Spaten Brewery. Sedlmayr would spend the rest of his life perfecting the Lagerbier practice and teaching his sons (Gabriel the Younger and Joseph) the trade.

The key event that is nearly always quoted when recanting the Oktoberfest story took place on October 12, 1810. The Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig married Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen. A grand wedding party was held just outside of the city gates on a meadow that lasted for several days. Of all things, the main attraction to the commoners was a horse race during the last day of festivities.

The first Oktoberfest (although it was not yet called that) was a wedding celebration that lasted a few days. There was no focus on beer yet mainly because there might not have been any available. By 1814, there is literature mentioning generous amounts of beer served in tin-lidded .5L steins and tents.

Following Gabriel Sedlmayr, the Elder’s death in 1839, his two sons -Gabriel and Joseph- assume the ownership responsibilities.

In 1833, brewers Gabriel Sedlmayr (the Younger) of the Spaten Brewery his good friend, Anton Dreher of the Dreher Brewery in Vienna made a research trip to England. Their goal was to witness and study a revolutionary hot air kiln, which kilned green malt to a relatively pale consistency. They returned and immediately got to work creating paler malts and incorporating them at their respective breweries.

Shifting briefly and slightly to the east, a brewer by the name Josef Groll released his pale golden lager to the unsuspecting public of Pilsen, Bohemia (modern-day Czechia) on November 11, 1842. It did not take long for this beer to gain footing with beer drinkers. Virtually all other breweries in the world, including Germany, would follow suit in creating paler beers. No market was unaffected, not even the traditional Märzenbiers.

Sedlmayr released an amber lager during the 1841 Oktoberfest known simply as a Märzen made with his pale grain dubbed Munich malt (although this Märzen was paler in comparison to Märzenbiers prior). Likewise, a few months later Dreher released an even paler amber lager made with his pale grain dubbed Vienna malt. These two beers were the precursors to what we know as the Oktoberfest/Märzen and Vienna Lagers today.

Joseph would later (in 1842) withdraw from Spaten to pursue his brewing venture and would acquire the Leist Brewery. Joseph after a while attains the Franziskaner and shuts down the Leist Brewery. By 1865, Joseph’s only focus is brewing operations at Franziskaner.

Aware of the growing popularity of pale-colored beers, Joseph applied that understanding to modify a Vienna Lager formula. Depictions vary as to how, but it was released at the 1872 Oktoberfest. This beer was Franziskaner’s Ur- Märzen. The copper-colored, toasty, crisp Oktoberfest beer was finally born.

That same year, 1872 in Northern Germany, the Radeberger Brewery lays claim to having developed the first German Pilsner.

The development of refrigeration by Carl von Linde in 1873 encouraged breweries to slowly move into year-round production (ironically enough, the first refrigeration system was developed for the Spaten Brewery). The Märzen style beers evolved into specialty products specially made for the festival. Märzen as a “March” beer slowly became a style designation associated with the festival. They are now known as one and the same, Märzen/Oktoberfest. With this mash-up, the need to create a special, darker, stronger beer in March eventually dissipated. There was simply no need for it any longer.

As other lessons in beer anthropology have taught us, the popularity of the Pilsner forced brewers to get with the program to keep their thirsty customers happy. Spaten introduced a Helles Lager to the Munich locals in 1895 in response to the growing demand for the golden beer.

Spaten and Franziskaner would join in 1922 bringing the Sedlmayr’s back under one umbrella of influential brewers.

"O'zapft is!" With that loud cry, the ceremonial first keg is tapped, and the world’s biggest party is underway. ('O'zapft is!' means ‘It’s tapped!’ in German, Bavarian dialect). Ludwig and Therese’s wedding celebration continued year after year on its anniversary, eventually evolving and merging with the celebration of the new harvest and clearing out the casks for the new brewing season. As mentioned above, these older casks of beers were in their prime condition with the extended aging. Horse racing eventually was dropped from the celebrations. To honor the princess, the grounds that continue to hold this party are named Theresienwiese or Therese’s Meadow in German, Bavarian dialect.

Only the 6 Munich breweries are allowed to serve their beer at the Munich Oktoberfest. Those breweries are Spaten, Augustiner, Hacker-Pschorr, Hofbräu, Löwenbräu, and Paulaner. This festival, now called Oktoberfest, is the world’s biggest party where about 30% of all Munich brewery production is accounted for!

The traditional Märzen beers are copper-colored and very bright with a dense cap of creamy foam. Rich malty aromas with toasty notes. Sweet yet pleasantly bitter on the palate with a complex malt backbone, medium-bodied, and clean, dry finish. These are the versions we commonly see here in the United States as they are now produced mainly for export. The need to create this version as a necessity is no longer valid due to the development of refrigeration. That’s not to say traditional Märzen/Oktoberfest beers are not available in Bavaria because they are (just not as common as before), although they are primarily produced for export. Traditional decoction mashing (where portions of the mash, including the grain, are boiled then added back to the mash) is common to produce Märzen.

The Oktoberfest style has split into two distinct versions: The golden Festbier and the traditional densely gold to coppery-orange Märzen. Paulaner is usually credited to have introduced a less-filling golden-colored malty lager at Oktoberfest in 1970, but there is evidence to indicate other beers served during the celebrations well before that. Some flyers and programs dating back to the late 1800s call for Helles and Dunkel being served. So as is most often the case, the transition was most likely gradual with 1990 being when the Festbier became the lager all 6 breweries served at Oktoberfest.

The official golden Oktoberfestbier goes by many other style names: Festbier, Wiesn, Wiesnbier, Oktoberfestbier, Oktoberfest Wiesn, and so on. These beers are gold in color, brilliant clarity with a creamy white head. Pilsner malt dominates the aroma with notes of grain-like sweetness. Compared to Märzen, not as much (but still plenty of) toasty flavors or aroma with hints of honey and hay, low perceived bitterness in flavor and finish, with a well-rounded and soft malt character. Best described as a supercharged Helles. Again, decoction mashing is traditional.

Regardless of the version, be it a Vienna, Märzen, or Festbier, serve in a traditional dimpled mug and enjoy. Pair with traditional pork schnitzel with sauerkraut or bratwurst sausages to let the malt sweetness contrast out the tart of the kraut and the toasty nature compliments the savory meats., In the cheese world, a simple medium-aged cheddar, gouda, or Gruyère, will harmonize with the toasty notes or goat cheeses like Hoja Santa or Ibores have earth notes that give those malts something to latch on to. Backyard burgers, roasted chicken or pork, grilled veggies, American pizza with lots of meat, Caesar salads, or beef chili also work nicely.

The Oktoberfest beer style history is expansive. Short of simply saying, “Oktoberfest is the celebration of beer and harvest that began with a royal wedding,” which is fairly accurate, understanding the significant historical events and timeline brings even more depth to this already amazing beer style.

One of my favorite styles, indeed. The toasty flavors and golden copper colors of these malty Lagerbiers resemble autumn in a glass. - Pumpkin. Spice. Need. NOT. Apply. -

Prost!

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

References:

Alworth, J. (2015). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Amato, M. (2014). Beerology: Everything You Need to Know to Enjoy Beer… Even More. Appetite by Random House.

Dornbusch, H. D. (1997). Prost! The Story of German Beer. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Kraus-Weyermann, T., Dornbusch, H. D. (2018). Dark Lagers: History, Mystery, Brewing Techniques, Recipes. Master Brewers Associations of the Americas (MBAA).

Herz, J., Conley, G. (2015). Beer Pairing: The Essential Guide from the Pairing Pros. Voyageur Press.

McCalman, M., Gibbons, D. (2009). Mastering Cheese: Lessons for Connoisseurship from a Maître Fromager. Clarkson Potter.

Oliver, G. (2003). The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food. HarperCollins.

Oliver, G. (2012). The Oxford Companion to Beer. Oxford University Press.

Enbeerment’s Lagerbier of the Week: Brighter Than Sunshine

*Originally posted August 5, 2021*

Radiant Beer Co. opened its doors, kind of, during the height of pandemic in 2020 with to-go only packaged beer and shined bright from day one. Only a few weeks later, their first Lager was packaged and sold. Since then, Radiant’s head of all things brewing Andrew Bell his brewing team has consistently had a Lagerbier flowing and available on-site ever since it was safe to do so. Their latest German-Style Pilsner (Pils), Brighter Than Sunshine is Enbeerment’s Lagerbier of the week!

Any well-produced German Pils benefits with the use of traditional old-world ingredients. Brighter Than Sunshine does just that with the use of only German malt and hops, with a focus on the application of Saphir, Tettnang, and Hallertau Mittlefrüh hops. Tettnang and Hallertau Mittlefrüh are both Noble Hops and are renowned for their pleasant properties and elegant nature. Saphir, a popular German hop, is a fairly recent addition to the available hop roster. Only being bred by the Hop Research Center Hüll (about 45 minutes north of Munich) in 2002, Saphir imparts a nice mix of “noble” qualities along with some added new-world characters. All three shimmer in sophistication in Brighter Than Sunshine.

Pouring a pale golden yellow with a fluffy cap of foam, aided using a LUKR (Czech “slow pour”) Faucet when ordered at the tasting room. Aromas of biscuit let the hops gracefully take the spotlight. Tettnang and Hallertau Mittlefrüh provide the black tea, sage, dried lavender, fresh pine, sweet spices, and new-mown hay while Saphir adds lemon zest and berry stems all in graceful balance. The palate is much the same with the addition of an earl grey tea and lemongrass. Medium-bodied and highly effervescent with a snappy mouthfeel. Pleasantly bitter and clean, semi-dry finish.

Pair with almost any meal one may think of especially Mexican and Thai dishes where the hop flavors resonate with the cilantro and lime while the carbonation washes away any oils left on the tongue. A great partner with carne asada, too. If seafood is more your liking, shellfish or delicate fish will work, especially with citrus marinades or drizzles. Brighter Than Sunshine can stand up to spicy dishes (did someone say Buffalo Wings?) and salty dishes are tamed by the bitterness.

Enjoy a pour while it’s still around and take home a 4-pack.

Radiant Beer Co.
1566 W Lincoln Ave, Anaheim, CA 92801
Website, Insta, Facebook

Prost!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®