Kölsch – The German Ale/Lagerbier

Kölschkranz of Gaffel Kölsch. Image by Gaffel.

*This is an updated essay -added to, and/or modified- from previous publications, authored by me, on the subject elsewhere*

It is no secret that Germany is famous for Lagerbier. It is the county of origin for the balanced Helles, consumed by the liter at Biergarten during summer in Bavaria. Also, home to the semi-sweet Dunkel, toasty Märzen & Festbier, and bready Doppelbock. But Lager is not the only family of beers Germany is known for. Whether historically or because of the climate, various German Ales exist; in certain regions, these styles are preferred over any Lager. Weissbier (or Hefeweizen as it is known here in the States) was arguably the most popular and most recognizable. Kölsch, however, was once a lesser-known surviving German Ale example that keeps alluring beer drinkers.

This beer style gets its name from the city it originated from, Köln (Cologne). As a beer style, Kölsch was not always as we know it today. Before modern refrigeration, Northern Germany brewed dark Ales that we now refer to as Alt (Old in German), referring to beers produced in the old or traditional way. In other words, beers fermented by Ale yeast. Laws in the region also played a part in shaping the golden-colored crisp German Ale.

The predecessor to what eventually evolved into the now famous Reinheitsgebot was enacted in 1516 in Bavaria to the south. The famous Purity Law was not originally written for any regulations on beer ingredients. It was not referred to as the Reinheitsgebot until a few centuries later. It was, in basic terms, an attempt to stabilize the price of grain. However, it did have an impact on brewers. A few decades later in 1553, the state of Bavaria outlawed brewing during summer months, laying down the groundwork for Lager brewing eventually taking over.

Up north in Köln in 1603, to preserve their brewing tradition and beer quality, a similar decree was passed that outlawed Lager brewing. Some have speculated this was done in direct response to the actions in Bavaria, while the timing may only be a coincidence. The more logical reason is that Northern Germany's clement is warmer and more suitable for Ale yeast fermentation conditions.

It took until the very early 1900s for the term Kölsch to take hold and designate the style that comes out of that city. World War I saw grain rationing, resulting in a drop in alcohol to the Kölsch. Taxation afterward kept the style from prospering and World War II nearly leveled the entire city. That may have rendered the Kölsch as a style now lost, but a couple of decades later saw a resurgence of the style as new brewpubs began to be constructed and Kölsch started to flow again.

Fast forward to the late 20th century. The brewers in Köln convened to distinguish their beer in the mid-1980s via the Kölsch Konvention, an agreement on what a Kölsch should be, down the type of yeast. We now have technological advancements in yeast cultivation, sanitation, and malt production. While the brewers in Düsseldorf took to perfecting the dark Ale now known as Altbier using toasty and bready Munich malt, Köln implemented the use of newer, paler malts such as Pilsner malt.

Although both Altbier and Kölsch are brewed with Ale yeast, the fermentation temperature is cooler than what Ale yeast normally desires. This results in a clean fermentation profile typically produced by Lager yeast. Both are then matured cold (Lagered) after primary fermentation to secure the appropriate gentle flavors. The two styles are known as hybrids; They are not quite Lagers and are not quite Ales. Some Kölsch brewers and drinkers have a name for this. Obergäriges Lagerbier, meaning Top-fermenting Lagerbier.

Everyone, the Kölsch by Everywhere Beer Co in Orange, CA

Kölsch is served in specific glassware called Stange (Pronounced SH-tahng-uh, which translates to stick). These Kölner Stange only hold 0.2L (200ml or about 6.5oz, 6.76oz to be exact) to ensure you finish your beer before it gets too warm. This must keep the bartenders and servers busy in the beer halls. Servers, called Köbes, will carry about 20 of them on specially designed trays called a Kölschkranz (Kranz means Wreath) over their heads or by its handle. The Köbes will continuously drop Kölsch off often before you are about to take your last sip. Or as Herr Bleister, Köbe for Früh (video link below) so clearly puts it, "Colognian people don't order beer. They just get it." A simple tick mark by a pen or marker will indicate how much you have consumed in your session. When you have had enough and they are about to drop off a cold and fresh Kölsch, there is no need to say, “No thank you.” Just place the coaster on top of the glass. That tells them you are done and ready to pay your tab.

A traditional Kölsch is brilliantly clear, clean, and pale gold in color. High carbonation levels result in an attractive, frothy white head and carry lots of refined hop aromatics for your note to pick out. Subtle Pils malt and some gentle fruit characters derived from the yeast are usually found, but not overpowering. The palate is soft, elegant, and pleasantly dry after a creaminess in the center, freshly cracked bread, and a snappy bitterness with an underlying vinous trait. Examples from Köln might impart a minerality from regional water hardness that may prove difficult to replicate by local examples, but it is not impossible.

Quantitative properties, based on the BJCP (Beer Judge Certification Program), are as follows, based on current guidelines as of this publication.

ABV: 4.4 - 5.2%
SRM: 3.5 - 5.0
IBU: 18 - 30

Pair with light salads, delicate fish with lots of citrus, or simple shellfish preparations for a pleasant meal experience. The mild temperament of the Kölsch will not overpower the flavors in your dish while the bready notes latch on to some of the earthy aspects of the meal. Sushi, with its delicate nature, meets Kölsch on the palate without any struggle. Cheeses with creamy textures, and earthy, savory notes such as brie aren’t afraid to take on a Kölsch. Gruyère and Comté are fine also partners, taking in all the nutty, peppery, buttery notes bridging with the snappy hops and light fruitiness. Take a salad with hard-boiled eggs and diced ham. Don’t be afraid to grab a Kölsch for brunch, either. Kölsch is just mild enough to not overpower those eggs benedict and can withstand any heaty meats on your plate. Of course, sausages are a wonderful pairing with the grains harmonizing with the pork flavors while the hop bitterness will tone down the salinity letting the savoriness shine. Carbonation scrubs any fat and oils away and lifts them off your tongue like a grease interceptor to help you reset for the next bite.

Kölsch Service at Green Cheek, Orange, CA

Many fine examples exist here in the US. I encourage looking for an independent brewery near you and experience this hybrid Ale/Lager style. Around Orange County, Green Cheek regularly offers a Kölsch-style by one name or another, Everywhere Beer Co’s Everyone, Stereo re-released their Kraftwerk Kölsch, and Bearded Tang’s Cologne Shark are excellent, sparkling representations of the style. Tour Time by Brewery X in Anaheim is nice, although it often displays more hop aromatics than usual. Be on the lookout for others in Orange County that regularly produce Kölsch, like Bottle Logic and others, as beer boards change daily sometimes, and try this versatile style.

Worthy of note, as of this publication update, Green Cheek, Everywhere, and Stereo periodically offer “Kölsch Service.” Check their availability, but it’s an excellent way to experience the Kölsch beer-drinking culture here in OC. Surely more will follow (nudge, nudge, brewery owners, and tasting room managers). See you out there!

Prost!

-Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

References

"Cologne, Land of the Kölsch." YouTube, uploaded by germanytourism, January 6, 2016, https://youtu.be/TFO0C9-Omio

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Amato, M. (2014). Beerology: Everything You Need to Know to Enjoy Beer… Even More. Appetite by Random House.

Dornbusch, H. D. (1997). Prost! The Story of German Beer. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Herz, J., Conley, G. (2015). Beer Pairing: The Essential Guide from the Pairing Pros. Voyageur Press.

McCalman, M., Gibbons, D. (2009). Mastering Cheese: Lessons for Connoisseurship from a Maître Fromager. Clarkson Potter.

Oliver, G. (2003). The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food. HarperCollins.

Oliver, G. (2012). The Oxford Companion to Beer. Oxford University Press.

Talley, J. (2017). Session Beers: Brewing for Flavors and Balance. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association.

Witbier: The Springtime Beer Revived by Pierre Celis

*Originally Posted March 21st, 2021*
*Updated March 21st, 2022, and March 20th, 2023*

Spring is here. The astronomical Spring Equinox usually lands on March 20th and marks the end of Winter. The warmer weather calls for an invigorating and refreshing beer. A well-known event in Germany and is celebrated with a Frühlingsfest (Spring Festival). Usually held later in spring towards the end of April, the invigorating Helles Bock (or Maibock) Lagerbier flows during this Oktoberfest teaser. While the malty German Lagerbier welcomes Spring appropriately enough, we head over to Belgium for the quintessential Springtime beer. We can thank a man born on March 21st, 1925, the first full day of spring 98 years ago.

In 1965, Pierre Celis overheard a conversation between two people reminiscing about white beers and how much they miss them. A milkman at the time, barely 5ft tall, Celis was hit by nostalgia himself. By the next year, 1966, Celis brewed the first of what is now the style we call Witbier. That’s the short of it (get it?). But, there is, oh, so much more to it.

Stepping into our beer-fueled time machine, Witbier, or White Beer, can be traced back to the 1300s in Leuven, Belgium (located about 15 miles east of Brussels) and the charming little town of Hoegaarden (10 or so miles south-east of Leuven). By 1851, documentation refers to three types of White Beer from this region. Leuven had a Wit or Blanche, and a darker version called Peeterman The Balance was noted as a pale, hazy, and frothy beer. Hoegaarden’s version was similar to the Louvain Blanche but described as more rustic.

All were also known to be infected by the lactic acid-producing bacteria Lactobacillus (or sometimes Pediococcus) with Hoegaarden being the sourest. An interesting aspect of this historical White Beers is the use of “wind malt” by the 1800s, This was malt allowed air-dry and was not kilned at all to impart the lightest color possible. Production included a large portion of unmalted wheat (up to 60% at times) and other grains such as oats. Brewing varied by type which included various other grains, mashing methods, and boil or no boil. The recorded use of spices was spotty, but it is known spices were indeed used, including Coriander and Curaçao (Bitter Orange) Peels. They all were cooled down in shallow, open-air vats called “coolships” overnight after brewing.

 

Considering the geographical location, ingredients, and process similarities, the old White Beers have some striking overlaps and parallels that could point to signs of relation to Lambic and Gose. The obvious connection is the spontaneous fermentation initiated by the open-air inoculation of bacteria via the coolships and the use of unmalted wheat. Lambics are aged for months or even years, while White Beers were served fresh at only a week or two. It can be argued that White Beer, particularly the Hoegaarden with its more antiquated process, was essentially a type of very young lambic. Gose also seemingly has a connection because of the historical use of Lauftmalz (“wind-malt”) and the notable presence of Coriander. Although there is no direct lineage on record, and Coriander may be leftover from when a blend of spices was common in all beer, it is interesting to think Gose and Wit might be related are related.

White beers began to decline during the first World War and continued to fall out of favor after the second, especially with the rise of the industrial lager. By 1957, the last remaining White Beer brewery, Tomsin Brewery, closed. Serendipitously, this was the same brewery Celis spent a brief time working at in his younger days. Celis, in 1966, installed a brewery in a cowshed with the help of a retired Hoegaarden brewer. The Hoegaarden beer and Witbier style was born, brewed for the first time in, you guessed it, March. It was not a replica of the old White Beers, but its refreshing, spritzy qualities grew modestly until 1985. Tragically, a fire that same year all but destroyed the brewery. To rebuild, Celis sold the majority holdings to Artois for the capital to rebuild. By 1990, Celis retired and sold the remaining stake to Hoegaarden.

Side note: Artios acquired by Interbrew; Interbrew and AmBev merged to form InBev; InBev partnered with Anheuser-Busch to form AB-InBev, which is the current conglomerate as of this post.

Celis relocated to Texas and opened Celis Brewing. After closing briefly in 2000 and the brand sold, it has since returned to Austin complete with a brewery, tasting room, and daughter Christine Celis as the owner. Aside from some hiccups that hit the pocketbook and the recent pandemic-related closure, Celis Brewing is still open and pouring. Pierre Celis has also had a hand in improving other famous Wit’s, including the rendition by St. Bernardus.

Pierre passed away on April 9th, 2011 at the age of 86.

The ingredients for Witbier still resemble its ancient roots. Unmalted Wheat at about 50% and pale malt make up the remaining bill with raw Oats at around 5 – 10% is acceptable. The Unmalted Wheat and Oats add proteins to promote haze and texture as well as encourage a white-ish complexion. Hops tend to play a background note if at all. Yeast is spicy, yet mellow compared to other prototypical Belgian styles. Variety is the spice of life and Witbier holds to that sentiment, in more ways than one. Typical Witbier spices include Coriander and Curaçao Peels, but it is not held to doctrine. Other spices include Ginger, Chamomile, or other Tea Leaves, Grains of Paradise, Lime or Lemon Zest, Cumin, Cinnamon, Lemongrass, and Black Pepper. So long as they are restrained and not overtly obvious, practically any spice is fair game. Some Lactic Acid is also a welcomed addition.

Bitterness is low at no more than 20 IBU’s typically and ABV is average at 4.5 – 5.5%. Color is a straw yellow with a milky yet not fully opaque cloak that should have a long-lasting fluffy white head of foam.

Witbier is just about the perfect way to objectify the feeling of a cool ocean breeze hitting your skin on a warm summer evening. Honey, vanilla, lemony, tangerines, and grains hit your nose. Flavors of cereal, orange peels, white flowers, snappy spice, and a zesty lemony zing. Finishing dry and sometimes with a refreshing acidic twang. Highly carbonated with an almost chewy, creamy texture.

Hoegaarden is still widely available and is still a good representation of what a Witbier should be. Apart from Celis White, other good examples to try that are wonderful, if not perfect, representations of the style are Allagash White, Avery’s White Rascal, Einstok’s Icelandic White Ale, St. Bernardus Wit, and (don’t hate) Blue Moon. Closer to home (Orange County, CA), San Juan Capistrano's Docent Brewing offers Luna as a wonderful example made with toasted orange peels. Radiant Brewing out of Anaheim has Blank Slate that shines with lemon, tea, and grainy flavors. Bearded Tang’s Witbier named Wit? Has beautiful elegant fragrances and classic flavors. Tustin Brewing Company’s Starting at Wit’s End begins with the familiar notes but finishes with a snappy minerality. Green Cheek and others have produced Witbier in the recent past so keep an eye out.

 
The best thing about Witbier is how food-friendly it is. Ricotta and fresh goat cheese pair seamlessly with Witbier as do preparations with Feta. Slather up some ricotta on toasted sourdough, drizzle a bit of honey, and crack some black pepper over it for a wonderful mid-morning snack to accompany your Witbier. A goat cheese omelet on a warm spring or summer morning is perfect. Keep it going for lunch. Salads? Yes, nearly all of them! Especially with tangy or lemony dressings. Try Witbier paired with baby greens salad made with spinach, arugula, oak leaf lettuce, mizuna, and frisée salad tossed in a honey-lemon vinaigrette topped with goat cheese, toasted almonds, and dried cranberries. Witbier and brunch will put your mimosa to shame. Citrus and cilantro-laden Mexican or Thai dishes match up perfectly with the spices and acidity of Witbier. Seafood such as Seared Scallops or Pan-fired Shrimp Tossed in Lemon-Garlic Butter is no sweat for Witbier. And, of course, Sushi! An absolutely brilliant match with the grains and citrus acidity lending itself to the fish meat while the coriander and ginger echo each other. The delicate nature of the beer matches the fineness of sushi. It is no wonder why Witbier has found a comfortable second home in Japan.

There you have it. Spring has arrived and this beer style welcomes in the season's warmer weather perfectly. As you enjoy a Witbier with the knowledge you now have, remember the man that revived this style nearly a century ago. If it wasn’t for Pierre Celis, the Witbier would only be referred to as an ancient beer style. He may be gone, but his legacy continues with every effervescent, perfumey, and refreshingly satisfying glass of Witbier.

He would have been 98 this year. Happy birthday, good Sir. And, thank you.

Pierre Celis

(March 21, 1925 – April 9, 2011)

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

 

References/Resources:

Allen, F. (2018). Gose: Brewing a Classic German Beer for the Modern Era. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Hieronymus, S. (2010). Brewing with Wheat: The ‘Wit’ and ‘Weizen’ of World Wheat Beer Styles. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Oliver, G. (2003). The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food. HarperCollins.

Sparrow, J. (2005). Wild Brews: Beer Beyond the Influences of Brewer’s Yeast. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Photo of Pierre Celis obtained from Wikipedia on March 21'st 2021: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pierre_Celis

All other photos by the author.

Today, Celebrate the Lagerbier: National Lager Day

Happy #NationalLagerDay!

*This is an updated/modified essay previously posted here on 2021-12-10*

The world knows the word Lager and here in the US, we seem to think of Lager as the straw-colored, mass-market beer. Nothing inherently wrong with those Lagerbier styles, by the way. The difference between Ale and Lager is not as much as one would think, but the only physical difference is the yeast. The history of Lager is complex, and yeast has the most important role in it. While the place where Lagerbier originated may be surprising to some and obvious to others, I’m sure there are some surprising yeasty facts below for either camp. I’ll make this as brief as possible.

Grab a Lagerbier and let’s go back in time.

A good starting point is the enactment of the Reinheitsgebot. On April 23rd, 1516, Duke of Bavaria, Wilheim IV, a member of the royal Wittelsbach family, decreed what will eventually be the longest still-standing brewing standard we now refer to as the German Purity Law. Although beer was not the focus of the decree (more about it here), it can be argued that it did lay the foundation for Lagerbier with the restriction of ingredients. As we all know, the original proclamation specifically calls out for water, hops, and malt to be used in Bavarian beer. No yeast was mentioned, but this was fantastic news for our hungry little fungi friends. More on that later.

Mother Nature assisted in Lageriber’s firm grip in Bavaria before the next proclamation. Climatologists agree that a “Little Ice Age” began no later than 1550 and dropped the average temperatures by a degree or so. It may sound insignificant, but it was enough to be noticed all over Europe until temperatures stabilized around 1850.

In 1553, Wilheim’s successor and son, Duke Albrecht V, outlawed brewing in the summer months due to the inconsistent beers being produced during these warmer months. The dates Albrecht chose were April 23rd, the original date of his father’s proclamation, to September 29th. They didn't understand why, yet they knew fermentation and cold storage (“Lagern,” German verb “to store”) done in the colder months of the year resulted in higher quality beers.

The Munich Dunkel Lagerbier's origin as a beer style can be traced back to these events. Malts were darker in color, the water chemistry high bicarbonates (alkalinity) to aid in dark beer production, and proclamations to keep beers cold for an extended period. Munich Dunkel has been cited many times as not only the first beer style to be designated, but as the first Lageriber to be named as such. Lager yeast helped in many ways here. Cold storage for ideal fermentation temperatures, little to no fermentation characters, and extended lagering to promote clarity and round flavors.

Ale yeast (Saccharomyces Cerevisiae or S. cerevisiae) is usually slated to ferment at higher temperatures (65°F to 70°F, on average with some strains reaching even higher) and thus results and a vigorous, relatively quick fermentation and development of a large cap of kräusen. Usually accompanied by many fruity esters and spicy phenols. Lager yeast (Saccharomyces pastorianus or S. pastorianus) typically ferment at cooler temperatures (48°F to 58°F, on average). Because of this cooler temperature, fermentation is less violent, takes much longer, and there is less kräusen. Mostly a clean (little to no fruit or spice flavors) fermentation.

Note: Kräusen is the fluffy stuff that develops at the top of the fermenter that is made up of yeast and proteins and other materials frothed up because of yeast metabolism.

In 1996, the genome sequence of an S. cerevisiae strain was DNA-sequenced. A bit over a decade later, in 2009, the genome for Weihenstephan 34/70 S. pastorianus strain was sequenced. The data showed the chromosome mapping of S. pastorianus is about half identical to S. cerevisiae. Furthermore, the DNA also showed that the unidentified half of S. pastorianus is what gives it low-temperature fermentation capabilities.

After identifying S. cerevisiae as a hybridization parent of S. pastorianus, it was thought that the likely candidates were S. uvarum or S. bayanus might fit the bill. It turns out S. uvarum is a pure landrace to the region that is not hybridized and S. bayanus is hybridized from S. cerevisiae, S. uvarum, and another strain. We know S. bayanus by its more common name, Champagne yeast. After evaluating over 1,000 other European strains, it was later determined that S. pastorianus’ parent is not from Europe!

In 2011, microbiologists took their search for the origin of S. pastorianus to Patagonia, between Chile and Argentina in the high Andes. It’s cold there and that’s important. Many yeasts were collected and studied from there. One was found to be unidentified and was sent to Colorado for sequencing while the team on-site determined this strain was a pure landrace.

Then, it happened…. When the DNA was sequenced in Colorado, the yeast’s genome was found to be over 99% the same as the non-S. cerevisiae portion of the S. pastorianus segment.

In the words of Murry…. “You ARE the father!” And it was a busy father, indeed. S. eubayanus, as it would be named, was also the missing sequence for S. bayanus. It is still not understood how S. eubayanus got from South America to Europe, although there are many fun ideas such as on a bird. There is ongoing research, including the discovery of S. eubayanus elsewhere in South America, North America, China, Tibet, New Zealand, and a recent find of it in Ireland. There is at least a more solid understanding of the genetics that helped us identify the full origin of the yeast that made Lagerbier!

A toast to the reason for our little single-celled organism that makes our favorite drink. It is because of Lager yeast, along with serendipitous events and lucky molecular hybridization, that we have Lagerbier to enjoy today. I’ll see you all out there for a Lagerbier.

Prost!

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

References

(Research Publication/Journal Article)
Sean A Bergin, Stephen Allen, Conor Hession, Eoin Ó Cinnéide, Adam Ryan, Kevin P Byrne, Tadhg Ó Cróinín, Kenneth H Wolfe, Geraldine Butler (2022). Identification of European isolates of the lager yeast parent Saccharomyces eubayanus. Oxford University Press on behalf of FEMS. https://academic.oup.com/femsyr/article/22/1/foac053/6874782

Alworth, J. (2015, 2021). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Dornbusch, H. D. (1997). Prost! The Story of German Beer. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Kraus-Weyermann, T., Dornbusch, H. D. (2018). Dark Lagers: History, Mystery, Brewing Techniques, Recipes. Master Brewers Associations of the Americas (MBAA).

Oliver, G. (2012). The Oxford Companion to Beer. Oxford University Press.