Thanksgiving 2021: A Sense of Normal with a Feast for the Senses

What a past couple of years they have been. Not at all what we all were hoping for or wanted or may have predicted, I’m certain of that. But we can at least take a day to feel thankful for the little things and be hopeful for a light at the end of this virus-laden tunnel.

A quick digression: The history of this Holiday is unquestionably disturbing, and the day is also one of respect to our Natives. While some may demonstrate thanks to a deity or in a secular fashion as I do, let’s please also pay respects and not ignore the unfortunate past.

Last year, 2020, I tested positive for COVID-19 early in November. This meant a couple of things. One, thanksgiving was initially going to be a bit delayed while I was isolated for two weeks. And two, my sense of taste and smell was muted (a common symptom of the SARS-CoV-2 virus) and research proved correct with me as it did take a while for them to return.

How can one enjoy this day when the wonderful aromas and tastes all resemble the same bland flavor? I can’t begin to express how upset this makes me...

Needless to say, last year we had a virtual dinner apart from each other for everyone’s safety.

Well, it’s 2021 now, we are all fully vaxed, keeping the gathering to immediate family, and we will give this whatever-normal-is-now a try. This year’s dinner lineup contains a few surprises some may find it interesting, and some may find it odd. In the spirit of coming together, I think this is the one way, if nothing else, I can symbolically set aside differences to encourage acceptance, tolerance, and the motivation to endure these past stressful 19+ months.

In this comprehensive post, I’ll outline the itinerary for this flavor playground I get to play in once a year. Just a bit further down is the projected lineup for this year with the food pairings that my siblings and I will make for our family. Use these as suggestions, not as dogma, and explore what suits your palate.

A quick note on pairing food and beer. First and most importantly, remember to match the intensity of both. The impact on the palate of each one should be about equal. Then, play with interactions between flavors; sweet, salt, sour, bitter, umami, and emerging flavors/sensations such as fat and carbonations. Use these interactions to achieve the so-called three C’s; Cut, Contrast, and Compliment. Cut can be referred to as Cleanse. Carbonation (The 4th C?), Bitterness, and/or Acidity can act as a cutting agent. Contrast is best explained as opposites attract. Flavors contrast to create a pleasant or unique experience. Think sweet and sour, for example. Compliment refers to common flavors, affinity, or harmonizing two or more flavors in a dance. Think about the char on grilled meats (Millard reaction) and roasted malts.

A good pairing might only target one, a better pairing might accomplish two, but some of the best pairings achieve all three!

Morning Brew

Can’t say I’ve been drinking all day without starting in the morning. A warm, spiked cup-a-Joe, a mild stick to burn, and Pan Dulce. Rise and shine!

My choice: Irish Coffee (Mild arabica coffee, Jameson Irish Whisky, honey, and whipped cream).

Hydration

Quick interjection here. With so much booze going around on this day of gluttony, it is of the utmost importance to pace yourself, have composure, and have an abundance of hydration.

Day-Drinkin’

After some hydration, let’s crack open the first beer! I’d opt for a crisp beer with some bitterness to wake the senses up a bit more. A traditional Pilsner works just fine here. A unique choice could also be a Flanders Red or a fruited sour to slap those taste buds awake if they are still asleep.

My choice: Smooth Translation Kölsch by Green Cheek

Lunch

It’s become something of a tradition now in our home. My father and I take an unconventional route for a light lunch and make Ceviche. The entire family munches on it around mid-day before my siblings and I begin to rotate in the kitchen making our assigned side dishes for dinner. For this, I reach for something with some acidity and a slight funk to complement the freshness of the Ceviche. A balanced Gueuze or similar with our Ceviche is one of my favorite pairings.

My choice: Spontanaheim 2020 by Bruery Terruex

Apéritif

My father and I love to exchange stories and enjoy a nice beer. After lunch, we have about an hour before the cooking begins. Something with character but take notice not to ruin your pallet. Bitterness tends to increase one’s appetite, so try not to reach for the IPA’s just yet.

My choice: Magic of the Moment German Pils by Radiant

Appetizer

Here is where some meats and cheeses come into play. I try to have variety on my charcuterie boards as to have something for everyone to enjoy. If you’re only doing some heavy cheeses (aged cheddars or rambunctious blues) you can bring out your hoppy Pales and IPA’s. The cutting power of the hops helps lift the fats and complements the unctuousness of some intense cheeses. There are plenty of amazing Pale’s and IPA’s out there if that’s what you’re looking for. A Wit is a wonderful pairing if you have prosciutto with goat cheese specifically. Something acidic will help cut through the fat of the goat and other fatty cheeses. If wine is your game, a well-aged German Riesling should work nicely here, too. This year we kept it simple with some medium-aged cheddar, piquant blue, creamy chèvre, and firm manchego. For these, a Pale over an IPA should be a friendlier pair, although the chèvre might cause a battle. I’ll sip the Riesling with that one.

My choices: 2012 Dr. Loosen German Riesling Kabinett, Big Star by Stereo

Intermezzo

Time to reset the palate and take a break before the big dinner. Pause for hydration and then a dry, crisp seltzer or a tart fruited kettle sour will do the trick. A few bites of a fresh fruit are welcomed here, too. Then, more water!

My choice: Fil’s Hard Lemonade Seltzer by Bearded Tang

Dinner

Argued in his book “The Brewmasters Table,” Garrett Oliver proclaims there is no other choice for Thanksgiving dinner than a Bière de Garde. The subtle sweetness in the beer, particularly in the darker versions, pairs perfectly with the poultry, the yeasty spices will latch on to the stuffing, and the carbonation will wash away the mouth-coating mashed potatoes and gravy. While a Saison, Belgian Strong Ale (Dark or Golden, depending on the food), or Tripel may prove suitable substitutes since local Bière de Garde’s are difficult to find, other malty styles can prove wonderful at the table. Brown Ales, Scottish Ales, American Ambers, Irish Reds, and malty Lagers like Märzen or Dunkel can hold their own just fine with this kind of meal. A Hazy Ale might yield an interesting result too if that’s a style you enjoy. This year, I’m going to be a bit daring and reach into my cellar for a tart beer with some age. It may backfire, but the dark fruit notes in one should complement the bird, salty side dishes should be tamed, and tangy acidity could cut through any fats and oils leftover.

My choice: Oude Tart with Cherries (2013) by The Bruery

Dessert

Sweetness in most desserts can easily cloy the palate. Therefore, coffee is usually the drink used to contrast this. It’s also why we can easily substitute espresso with a big, roasty Imperial Stout, particularly those barrel-aged and more naturally still if infused with coffee themselves. But things can get boring if you stick with the usual. Have fun with it! Traditional pumpkin pie? Try it with Barleywine or Scotch Ale to add some caramel flavors, non-barrel-aged coffee stouts with some residual sweetness to contrast (which is what I’ll do this year), or a spiced holiday beer to resonate with the pie. Pecan pie with a big beer like mentioned above to take on the stickiness. Don’t forget fruited sours. They can resonate wonderfully with some deserts. There are so many ways to go here. Just keep intensities equal and you’ll be alright. I’m looking forward each year to opening one of my favorite bourbon barrel-aged (BBA)stouts. This year we are having Cheesecake, as well. It may not be traditional, but a BBA Stout pairs well with them, especially if they have a cherry drizzle.

My choice: Darkstar November 2020 and Vlad the Barista

Digestif

Time to slow down. And the bloated gut and tryptophan may have something to do with it. Many select a coffee to keep from nodding off. Some prefer Brandy (like my Pops!). Others still prefer a cocktail or a glass of wine. All are great choices. It is all about what one enjoys, after all. I’ll be indulging with a dram of Scotch with notes of oranges marmalade, nutmeg, walnuts, and cinnamon to kickstart digestion.

My choice: The Dalmore 12 Year Single Malt Highland Scotch.

Cigars

I’ve lined up some sticks to have during the day if time allows for it. The only two where it is more certain than not are during the morning brew and at the end of the evening. For my morning coffee, I’d normally the smooth My Father Flor de las Antillas and for the Digestif at the end of the night to complement my Dalmore I was thinking to elected the succulent Oliva Serie V Meliano. But, I may dive into my stash of Cubans for this day. Not sure yet, but either way it will be pleasant and enjoyable.

It's almost time! There will undoubtedly be more to drink than what is listed here as these are just suggestions in the end. After not gathering in 2020, the anticipation for making up for that absence is, dare I say, palpable. The urge to celebrate will surely take over.

For those that are celebrating this year (safely! Please get those boosters!), have a wonderful Thanksgiving, my friends.

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

The History of Oktoberfest: The Duke's, the Sedlmayr's, and the Wedding.

Autumn. It’s the most wonderful time of the year… for beer. The weather is finally cooling down, the leaves begin to change and fall, and the malty lagers begin to emerge. In the beer culture, Oktoberfest, both the party and the beer that bears its name, are synonymous with the fall season. Nothing is more comforting than a giant mug of beer and consuming the golden liquid while toasting the person next to you.

The story of Oktoberfest is one of the most repeated tales in the beer world that is quite accurate if told in its very basic form. But there are two parallel narratives, one regarding the beer and one about the annual celebration, to explore.

Ready? Grab a beer. Here we go.

A good starting point is the enactment of the Reinheitsgebot. On April 23rd, 1516, Duke of Bavaria, Wilheim IV, a member of the royal Wittelsbach family, decreed what will eventually be the longest still-standing brewing standard we now refer to as the German Purity Law. Although beer was not the focus of the decree (more about it here), it did lay the foundation for Lagerbier.

Mother Nature assisted in Lageriber’s firm grip in Bavaria before the next proclamation. Climatologists agree there was a “Little Ice Age” that began no later than 1550 that dropped the average temperatures by a degree or so. It may sound insignificant, but it was enough to be noticed all over Europe until temperatures stabilized around 1850.

In 1553, Wilheim’s successor and son, Duke Albrecht V, outlawed brewing in the summer months due to the inconsistent beers being produced during these warmer months. The dates Albrecht chose were April 23rd, the original date of his father’s proclamation, to September 29th. They didn't understand why, yet they knew fermentation and cold storage (lager) done in the colder months of the year resulted in higher quality beers.

The Munich Dunkel Lagerbier origin as a beer style can be traced back to these events.

Brewers stepped up production beginning in March into April and brewed plenty of beer to be stored away. These beers were quite strong, dark, and well hopped. Kept in cool caves, they eventually mellowed out. They eventually became known as Märzenbier (March beer).

Incongruent with the new harvest, brewing would begin again in late September or early October. Evidence shows that the remaining Märzenbiers were consumed in mass quantities to free up the casks for the upcoming brewing season. Not exactly a party or celebration, still a good time as one could imagine.

Duke Wilheim V, the next Wittelsbach to reign, would construct a royal brewery in Munich in 1589. The location still stands as an enormous, touristy pub and the brewery name is recognizable; The Hofbräuhaus.

Fast-forward to 1807. Gabriel Sedlmayr (the Elder), Master Brewer to the royal court of Bavaria, obtains a small brewery in Munich, the Spaten Brewery. Sedlmayr would spend the rest of his life perfecting the Lagerbier practice and teaching his sons (Gabriel the Younger and Joseph) the trade.

The key event that is nearly always quoted when recanting the Oktoberfest story took place on October 12, 1810. The Bavarian Crown Prince Ludwig married Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen. A grand wedding party was held just outside of the city gates on a meadow that lasted for several days. Of all things, the main attraction to the commoners was a horse race during the last day of festivities.

The first Oktoberfest (although it was not yet called that) was a wedding celebration that lasted a few days. There was no focus on beer yet mainly because there might not have been any available. By 1814, there is literature mentioning generous amounts of beer served in tin-lidded .5L steins and tents.

Following Gabriel Sedlmayr, the Elder’s death in 1839, his two sons -Gabriel and Joseph- assume the ownership responsibilities.

In 1833, brewers Gabriel Sedlmayr (the Younger) of the Spaten Brewery his good friend, Anton Dreher of the Dreher Brewery in Vienna made a research trip to England. Their goal was to witness and study a revolutionary hot air kiln, which kilned green malt to a relatively pale consistency. They returned and immediately got to work creating paler malts and incorporating them at their respective breweries.

Shifting briefly and slightly to the east, a brewer by the name Josef Groll released his pale golden lager to the unsuspecting public of Pilsen, Bohemia (modern-day Czechia) on November 11, 1842. It did not take long for this beer to gain footing with beer drinkers. Virtually all other breweries in the world, including Germany, would follow suit in creating paler beers. No market was unaffected, not even the traditional Märzenbiers.

Sedlmayr released an amber lager during the 1841 Oktoberfest known simply as a Märzen made with his pale grain dubbed Munich malt (although this Märzen was paler in comparison to Märzenbiers prior). Likewise, a few months later Dreher released an even paler amber lager made with his pale grain dubbed Vienna malt. These two beers were the precursors to what we know as the Oktoberfest/Märzen and Vienna Lagers today.

Joseph would later (in 1842) withdraw from Spaten to pursue his brewing venture and would acquire the Leist Brewery. Joseph after a while attains the Franziskaner and shuts down the Leist Brewery. By 1865, Joseph’s only focus is brewing operations at Franziskaner.

Aware of the growing popularity of pale-colored beers, Joseph applied that understanding to modify a Vienna Lager formula. Depictions vary as to how, but it was released at the 1872 Oktoberfest. This beer was Franziskaner’s Ur- Märzen. The copper-colored, toasty, crisp Oktoberfest beer was finally born.

That same year, 1872 in Northern Germany, the Radeberger Brewery lays claim to having developed the first German Pilsner.

The development of refrigeration by Carl von Linde in 1873 encouraged breweries to slowly move into year-round production (ironically enough, the first refrigeration system was developed for the Spaten Brewery). The Märzen style beers evolved into specialty products specially made for the festival. Märzen as a “March” beer slowly became a style designation associated with the festival. They are now known as one and the same, Märzen/Oktoberfest. With this mash-up, the need to create a special, darker, stronger beer in March eventually dissipated. There was simply no need for it any longer.

As other lessons in beer anthropology have taught us, the popularity of the Pilsner forced brewers to get with the program to keep their thirsty customers happy. Spaten introduced a Helles Lager to the Munich locals in 1895 in response to the growing demand for the golden beer.

Spaten and Franziskaner would join in 1922 bringing the Sedlmayr’s back under one umbrella of influential brewers.

"O'zapft is!" With that loud cry, the ceremonial first keg is tapped, and the world’s biggest party is underway. ('O'zapft is!' means ‘It’s tapped!’ in German, Bavarian dialect). Ludwig and Therese’s wedding celebration continued year after year on its anniversary, eventually evolving and merging with the celebration of the new harvest and clearing out the casks for the new brewing season. As mentioned above, these older casks of beers were in their prime condition with the extended aging. Horse racing eventually was dropped from the celebrations. To honor the princess, the grounds that continue to hold this party are named Theresienwiese or Therese’s Meadow in German, Bavarian dialect.

Only the 6 Munich breweries are allowed to serve their beer at the Munich Oktoberfest. Those breweries are Spaten, Augustiner, Hacker-Pschorr, Hofbräu, Löwenbräu, and Paulaner. This festival, now called Oktoberfest, is the world’s biggest party where about 30% of all Munich brewery production is accounted for!

The traditional Märzen beers are copper-colored and very bright with a dense cap of creamy foam. Rich malty aromas with toasty notes. Sweet yet pleasantly bitter on the palate with a complex malt backbone, medium-bodied, and clean, dry finish. These are the versions we commonly see here in the United States as they are now produced mainly for export. The need to create this version as a necessity is no longer valid due to the development of refrigeration. That’s not to say traditional Märzen/Oktoberfest beers are not available in Bavaria because they are (just not as common as before), although they are primarily produced for export. Traditional decoction mashing (where portions of the mash, including the grain, are boiled then added back to the mash) is common to produce Märzen.

The Oktoberfest style has split into two distinct versions: The golden Festbier and the traditional densely gold to coppery-orange Märzen. Paulaner is usually credited to have introduced a less-filling golden-colored malty lager at Oktoberfest in 1970, but there is evidence to indicate other beers served during the celebrations well before that. Some flyers and programs dating back to the late 1800s call for Helles and Dunkel being served. So as is most often the case, the transition was most likely gradual with 1990 being when the Festbier became the lager all 6 breweries served at Oktoberfest.

The official golden Oktoberfestbier goes by many other style names: Festbier, Wiesn, Wiesnbier, Oktoberfestbier, Oktoberfest Wiesn, and so on. These beers are gold in color, brilliant clarity with a creamy white head. Pilsner malt dominates the aroma with notes of grain-like sweetness. Compared to Märzen, not as much (but still plenty of) toasty flavors or aroma with hints of honey and hay, low perceived bitterness in flavor and finish, with a well-rounded and soft malt character. Best described as a supercharged Helles. Again, decoction mashing is traditional.

Regardless of the version, be it a Vienna, Märzen, or Festbier, serve in a traditional dimpled mug and enjoy. Pair with traditional pork schnitzel with sauerkraut or bratwurst sausages to let the malt sweetness contrast out the tart of the kraut and the toasty nature compliments the savory meats., In the cheese world, a simple medium-aged cheddar, gouda, or Gruyère, will harmonize with the toasty notes or goat cheeses like Hoja Santa or Ibores have earth notes that give those malts something to latch on to. Backyard burgers, roasted chicken or pork, grilled veggies, American pizza with lots of meat, Caesar salads, or beef chili also work nicely.

The Oktoberfest beer style history is expansive. Short of simply saying, “Oktoberfest is the celebration of beer and harvest that began with a royal wedding,” which is fairly accurate, understanding the significant historical events and timeline brings even more depth to this already amazing beer style.

One of my favorite styles, indeed. The toasty flavors and golden copper colors of these malty Lagerbiers resemble autumn in a glass. - Pumpkin. Spice. Need. NOT. Apply. -

Prost!

-Gilbert "Charlie" Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

References:

Alworth, J. (2015). The Beer Bible. Workman.

Amato, M. (2014). Beerology: Everything You Need to Know to Enjoy Beer… Even More. Appetite by Random House.

Dornbusch, H. D. (1997). Prost! The Story of German Beer. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Kraus-Weyermann, T., Dornbusch, H. D. (2018). Dark Lagers: History, Mystery, Brewing Techniques, Recipes. Master Brewers Associations of the Americas (MBAA).

Herz, J., Conley, G. (2015). Beer Pairing: The Essential Guide from the Pairing Pros. Voyageur Press.

McCalman, M., Gibbons, D. (2009). Mastering Cheese: Lessons for Connoisseurship from a Maître Fromager. Clarkson Potter.

Oliver, G. (2003). The Brewmaster’s Table: Discovering the Pleasures of Real Beer with Real Food. HarperCollins.

Oliver, G. (2012). The Oxford Companion to Beer. Oxford University Press.

Enbeerment’s Lagerbier of the Week: Brighter Than Sunshine

*Originally posted August 5, 2021*

Radiant Beer Co. opened its doors, kind of, during the height of pandemic in 2020 with to-go only packaged beer and shined bright from day one. Only a few weeks later, their first Lager was packaged and sold. Since then, Radiant’s head of all things brewing Andrew Bell his brewing team has consistently had a Lagerbier flowing and available on-site ever since it was safe to do so. Their latest German-Style Pilsner (Pils), Brighter Than Sunshine is Enbeerment’s Lagerbier of the week!

Any well-produced German Pils benefits with the use of traditional old-world ingredients. Brighter Than Sunshine does just that with the use of only German malt and hops, with a focus on the application of Saphir, Tettnang, and Hallertau Mittlefrüh hops. Tettnang and Hallertau Mittlefrüh are both Noble Hops and are renowned for their pleasant properties and elegant nature. Saphir, a popular German hop, is a fairly recent addition to the available hop roster. Only being bred by the Hop Research Center Hüll (about 45 minutes north of Munich) in 2002, Saphir imparts a nice mix of “noble” qualities along with some added new-world characters. All three shimmer in sophistication in Brighter Than Sunshine.

Pouring a pale golden yellow with a fluffy cap of foam, aided using a LUKR (Czech “slow pour”) Faucet when ordered at the tasting room. Aromas of biscuit let the hops gracefully take the spotlight. Tettnang and Hallertau Mittlefrüh provide the black tea, sage, dried lavender, fresh pine, sweet spices, and new-mown hay while Saphir adds lemon zest and berry stems all in graceful balance. The palate is much the same with the addition of an earl grey tea and lemongrass. Medium-bodied and highly effervescent with a snappy mouthfeel. Pleasantly bitter and clean, semi-dry finish.

Pair with almost any meal one may think of especially Mexican and Thai dishes where the hop flavors resonate with the cilantro and lime while the carbonation washes away any oils left on the tongue. A great partner with carne asada, too. If seafood is more your liking, shellfish or delicate fish will work, especially with citrus marinades or drizzles. Brighter Than Sunshine can stand up to spicy dishes (did someone say Buffalo Wings?) and salty dishes are tamed by the bitterness.

Enjoy a pour while it’s still around and take home a 4-pack.

Radiant Beer Co.
1566 W Lincoln Ave, Anaheim, CA 92801
Website, Insta, Facebook

Prost!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

Enbeerment’s Lagerbier of the Week: Carlos Danger

*Originally posted July 19th, 2021*

Jon, Jerrod, and Jordan keep turning out amazing lagers to keep us entertained and quench our thirst. They have released a few lagers in the past few weeks, and it is tough not to turn these posts into a Bearded Tang marketing ploy. American Dark Lager Mariana’s Quench, Australian Pale Lager Ella Down Unda, and the return of fan-favorite German Pilsner Ausflippen (previously written about here). But one other Lagerbier stands out and is a testament to the talent at Bearded Tang (and their witty banter). A toasty Vienna Lager, Carlos Danger, is Enbeerment’s Lagerbier of the Week!

Vienna Lagers have origins in Austria by a brewer named Anton Dreher in 1841. Developed alongside what is now referred to as Märzen by a fellow brewer, friend to Dreher, and a legend in Bavarian beer history, Gabriel Sedlmayr II. Upon the development of Munich malt (Sedlmayr) and Vienna malt (Dreher), they became the primary ingredients for their respected associated beer styles. Over the decades and the popularity of adjuncts used in the new-world brewing tradition, this style has taken a turn towards the bland and resembles only in name to their linage. Looking at you, Dark Mexican Lagers.

Carlos Danger, however, holds to what the traditional style was meant to be in all its Austrian glory. Pours out a dazzling amber with orange highlights, crystal clear, with a dense, long-lasting ivory head atop. Aromas of lightly toasted bread with drizzled honey and a touch of flowery hops. The palate is the same as the nose with the addition of a sharp bitterness to balance out the gentle sweet bread and lingers into the dry finish along with some soft, cozy malt. Everything this style was meant to be.

While enjoying a pint at Rodeo 39 in Stanton you have many options for food. If you are looking for an interesting combination, pair it up with Nandomo by Hironori’s Al Pastor Raman (pictured above). The spicy heat and delectable nature of the meat will partner well with the toasty flavors of the beer while the onions and lime echo the slight hop notes making them pop more. The bitterness might make accentuate the heat, but the saltiness of the broth lets those malt flavors through to balance the whole thing. Perhaps a classic Cuppy-Roni pepperoni pizza Steele Pan is more your style. Take a bit of the pie, take a sip, and let the bitterness contrast the saltiness to let the toasty notes envelop the savory meat cups. You can also enjoy with a nice burger or steak by Primal Cuts, a Hawaiian BBQ-inspired sandwich at Shootz, or enjoy it with just about any other terrific food choices available there.

Bearded Tang Brewing
12885 Beach Blvd, #23, Stanton, CA 90680
Insta, Facebook

Prost!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

Enbeerment’s Lagerbier of the Week: Chapman Pils Dry-Hopped Batch 500

*Originally posted July 13, 2021*

One aspect of the independent craft beer scene that can be a downfall is consistency. This is true whether we are referencing the availability of core beers or variations from batch to batch. Beers take time to make, and it is difficult to execute them consistently every time if that is the intent. It seems to be even more evident with a Lagerbier. Chapman’s Pils defies both. Not only has it been consistently available, as noted with this special 500th batch, but the quality of this Lagerbier has rarely wavered. Chapman Crafted Pils Dry-Hopped Batch 500 is Enbeerment’s Lagerbier of the Week!

This batch is a purposeful variant with the addition of dry-hopping (adding hops at the tail end and/or end of fermentation) with Grüngeist and Saphir hops to highlight this milestone. Dry-hopping is not common practice in traditional Lagerbier production in the old world, but it is one of the defining characters of an Italian Pilsner. Could Pils Batch 500 be classified as an Italian Pilsner? Perhaps. The standard Chapman Pils is already a wonderful Lagerbier with its well attenuated (percentage of fermentable sugar fermented), dry, snappy, and floral aspects. The dry-hopping adds some extra oomph.

Pouring a pale golden yellow with a fluffy cap of foam. Aromas of the combination of Grüngeist and Saphir hops explode out of the glass! Notes lime zest, fresh green tea leaves, underripe peach, grain cereal, and slight sulfur (it’s a good thing, trust me). On the tongue, flavors of lemon rind, crushed mint, cut grass, berry skin, and light white bread underneath it all. Medium body with a soft textured mouthfeel and a bitter, snappy, bone-dry finish with only a bit of fragrant hops that linger.

Pick up a 4-pack and pair it with just about anything! A great paring at any backyard cookout is carne asada or citrus-marinated chicken tacos with a kickin’ salsa. The lime, cilantro, and onion will resonate with the grassy, lemony hops, bitterness will contrast the heat of the salsa, and the carbonation will wash it all away.

Chapman Crafted

123 N Cypress St., Orange, CA 92866
Website, Insta, Facebook

Prost!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

Enbeerment’s Lagerbier of the Week: Mouth Peace

Peace & Suds.
(Photo taken at Green Cheek, Orange, by me)

*Originally posted July 7, 2021*

Green Cheek is no stranger to traditional lagers and their team makes some outstanding examples. Their current pale lager in the old-world style is no different. It is easy to have inner peace once one takes a sip of this invigorating Lagerbier. Mouth Peace, a German Pils by Green Cheek is Enbeerment’s Lagerbier of the week!

Taking inspiration from the Czech or Bohemian Pilsner style lager that came before it, the first German Pils is claimed by the Radeberger Brewery in 1872 to combat the growing popularity of the golden pale lager. The German Pils differs from its Czech origins in a few ways such as having sharper edges on bitterness and dryness and having more lively carbonation. (More on all Pilsners here.)

Pale gold in color and brightly clear with a pillowy head. On the nose, aromas of pristine malt characters such as dried hay and cereal with minty, almost tea-like, or cut grass hop aroma. The taste is clean and refreshing with a light cracker with peppery hops to give their delicate herbal tones to take hold. Crisp finish with a clear-cut bitterness that lingers for a while, very pleasantly, aiding to the thirst-quenching nature of the beer.

Pair with… just about anything. It’s summer and it’s hot out so give it a try with some spicy sausages or carne asada, tacos with lots of lime and cilantro, or anything with lots of capsaicin heat at this weekend’s backyard cookout. You’ll be hard-pressed not find peace within you… after a can or two of Mouth Peace, that is.

“Drink While Smiling.”

Green Cheek Beer Co.
2294 N Batavia St, Ste C, Orange, CA 92865
Or
2957 Randolph Ave, Unit B, Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Website, Insta, Facebook

Prost!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

Enbeerment’s Lagerbier of the Week: Perfect Dark Especial

*Originally posted June 28, 2021*

Award-winning South Orange County brewery and one of the major players that accounts for the strong OC Lager-game, GameCraft keeps improving and impressing with their Lagerbiers. Perfect Dark Especial is a beer that might straddle a few styles but seems to fit perfectly in the Lager family, nonetheless.

Perfect Dark Especial began as a Munich Dunkel style that saw some moderate popularity at the tasting room. This version is Vienna Lager-inspired, but with a dash of adjuncts to light up the body a bit and a Mexican Lager yeast strain to make it more reminiscent of the “model” Dark Lagers we may find in stubby bottles. The result is a malty yet refreshing International Dark (or American Dark) Lager.

Deep garnet in color with some auburn highlights and dense, tan head. On the nose, we have aromas of cocoa powder, cracked bread, and a touch of caramel. Flavors are that of dissolved chocolate, lightly toasted bread, with a medium-light body and a semi-dry finish. No guilt with ordering another at only 4.8%ABV.

A wonderful food partner with friend food or burgers. Try with the Bacon Cream Cheese Wontons to create a Mole Poblano flavor on the palate as the spice of the Thai sauce and chocolate notes link up and the fluffy cream cheese adds texture. The bacon harmonizes with the dark malts lifting the salt and letting the pork’s savory nature show itself then the carbonation washes it all away.

Looking a little "sus" there, Perfect Dark Especial

Don’t feel “rare” and let your inner gamer out while taking a sip of Perfect Dark Especial. The warm weather is a noob for this crisp Lagerbier.

GameCraft Brewing
23301 Avenida De La Carlota, Suite C, Laguna Hills, CA 92653
Website, Insta, Facebook

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

Enbeerment’s Lagerbier of the Week: Stereo Pils

*Originally posted June 8, 2021*

Beginning its life as Sun Medallion, a collaboration with Bearded Tang’s Jon Chiusano, Stereo Pils is a Czech-Style Pilsner that has evolved to be individual and distinct from its first incarnation. This wonderful lager was gained popularity as a draught-only refreshing beer and quickly a crowd and staff favorite at Placentia’s Stereo Brewing. To our delight, Stereo Pils is available in 16oz canned 4-packs to-go for the first time!

The Czech or Bohemian Pilsner style is the lager that influenced (but is not the same as) other pale lagers including German Pils and the American Light Lager. More on the history of Pilsner here. Stereo Pils shows off the marvelous uplifting quality of the style.

Golden in color and brilliantly clear with no chill-haze at all. Zippy, snappy, crisp, purfumy, and rejuvenating. Brewed using 100% floor malted Bohemian Pilsner malt, only Saaz hops, and a clean lager profile to allow the ingredients to shine. A dried cereal malt backbone with lemony, spicy hop aromas laying atop a pillowy cap of foam. Flavors of hay, cut grass, lemon zest, and a round bitter bite on the finish.

Get it while it’s hot… Or cold in this case. Pay them a visit and enjoy your Pils.

Stereo Brewing Company
950 S Vía Rodeo, Placentia, CA 92870

Website, Insta, Facebook

Na Zdraví!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

To Helles and Bock Again: Mai, oh Maibock

Hofbräu Maibock

“A beer for every season. And an occasion for every beer... In Bavaria they say the year has five seasons; the fifth season has its official start here, at the beginning of May with the appearance of the rich, dark, powerful brew.” -Michael Jackson, The Beer Hunter.

The Bockbier family and some other well-known German lager styles are synonymous with seasons or occasions. Summer arrives and we have the Munich Helles being chugged by the litters in Biergarten's across Bavaria. Fall brings the partygoers out when the Märzen/Festbier is tapped, and it is Oktoberfest celebration time. Winter ushers in the Weihnachtsbock, “Christmas Bock,” which we know here as traditional Bockbier or Dunkles Bock. Around Ash Wednesday and Easter during the first quarter of the year (give or take) when winter still has a firm grip, we have Doppelbock.

The weather is still warming up and might still have days of cool weather in May. When spring is in full bloom, but it is no longer snowing, it’s time for Helles Bock, or Maibock, or sometimes called Frühlingsbock (Spring Bock), to get tapped!

Bockbier is under the German tax law as Starkbier, Strong Beer. These beers are at least 6% ABV. All Bockbier, including some not mentioned in this post, is Starkbier according to the tax law. Starkbierzeit (Strong Beer Season) is when the strongest beers begin to show up, usually around lent, and Maibock serves as the changeover from Starkbierzeit to early summer drinking in Biergarten's.

The story of Maibock begins in the city of Einbeck, located in northern Germany, in the mid-1500s. Einbeck was a thriving trade city, and its specialty trade item was beer. This ale was made with lightly kilned barley & wheat and was generously hopped. Einbeck's beer made its way into many cities and that included Munich. The ruling family of Bavaria was particularly fond of the Einbeck brew. Plenty of money was being spent on this beer and this caught the attention of the royals, the Wittelsbach’s. Some brewmasters from Einbeck were brought to Munich in 1540 to teach the Munich brewers a thing or two.

It is reasonable to believe that this is what prompted Duke Wilhelm V to construct the now-infamous Hofbräuhaus. By about 1610, Einbecker was being produced by the royals and sold to some of the public as well.

In 1612, Duke Maximillian I, Wilhelm V’s successor, convinced (perhaps coerced?) well-regarded Einbeck brewer Elias Pichler to move down to Munich and improve the Einbecker clones which were not measuring up the northern originals. Pichler refined the brew to fit the parameters set forth about 100 years prior (The Reinheitsgebot, see the previous post). This meant the Einbecker no longer contained wheat malt as this was reserved for special beers made for the royal family and employed the lagering tactics that were already well established by Munich brewers. The resulting beer was released at the Hofbräuhaus in 1614 and it was referred to as brewed the “Einbeck way.” It has been claimed that this was not only the first Bockbier, but it was indeed the birth of Maibock.

As with many other lagerbiers and ales, the Helles Bock evolved into its current incarnation as a relatively pale lager sometime after the introduction of the Czech Premium Pale Lager, better known as the Czech or Bohemian Pilsner, in the mid to late 1800s.

A note on how “Bockbier” got its name: It is widely believed and accepted that it is a manipulation of the word “Einbeck” in the Bavarian dialect. This would make the word sound like “Ayn pock” and eventually evolving to “ein bock” (one bock). “Bock” is also the word for “buck” or “goat” in German, explaining why so many versions of Bockbier display goats on their labels.

Continuing the language theme, German grammar incorporates genders on nouns. One may use Heller Bock or Helles Bock, and both are correct. (Applicable to Dunkler Bock and Dunkles Bock, too). Beer itself has a neuter gender, das Bier. Bock, or goat, is a masculine, der Bock. Depending on how one refers to the beer, either as the style or a goat will dictate what gender it is. Masculine: der Heller/Dunkler Bock. Or neuter: das Helles/Dunkles Bock.

Maibocks are flavorful with lots of rising bread aromas but be cautious at that seemingly gentle touch. They span from about 6.3% to 7.4% ABV and colors range from deep gold to amber. Aromas of freshly baked bread, dark caramel, and a slight spicy hop note on the background. On the palate, you will get toast, slight toffee sweetness, finishing off with moderate bitterness, and a clean lager, semi-dry finish. If you feel brave, serve in a traditional 1 liter dimpled mug (Maß) at 40°F, take your time with it. Or embrace the elegance of this lager and serve in a chalice or goblet a bit warmer, about 45°F, and pair with a meal.

Maibocks are wonderful partners with food. They bring malty, toastiness with firm bitterness to the table. They are similar but more restrained to their stronger versions, Doppelbock, yet share many similar flavor notes with the Märzen, while having more strength. The food pairings reflect some overlap because of this. Game meats such venison or wild boar with fruit sauces are great complements to both the meat and the sweet malt character of the beer. Stakes, backyard burgers, ham, sausages, and some barbeque will match the intensity, toasty malts and meat find affinity and hops cut through any sweetness or lingering fats. For dessert, white chocolate cheesecake is a tried-and-true pairing. If you are looking to pair with cheese, reach for Swiss gruyère or smoked gouda.

Close to home, The Phoenix Club in Anaheim, CA will have a Mai Bockfest on May 16th, 2021. Also, do not forget to check out the Biergarten at Old World in Huntington Beach and Jägerhaus German Restaurant in Anaheim. Either may have some authentic Maibock tapped and ready.

Prost!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

* Portions of this essay have been obtained, added to, and/or modified from previous publications, authored by me, on the subject elsewhere. *

Photo Credit: Me.

The World-Famous Pilsner: From Old-World to Pre-Prohibition to Italy to Post-Pandemic

Praguer Bohemian Pilsner from GameCraft Brewing
Laguna Hills, CA.

There has not been a more replicated and modified beer style than the Pilsner. The beer giants have their fair share of Pale American Lagers and similar products, but all fall short of their heritage. Some even have the word “Pilsner” on their labels, although they are different enough from their linage so that they now fall into a separate style. That’s not to say that they are bad beers as every beer style has its place. But a true Pilsner is simply a thing of beauty. Not only do we know where it originated, but we even have the dates! Furthermore, A genuine, old-world Pilsner (and/or other session beers) might be what keeps us at our pubs as our way of life begins to safely get back to a sense of normalcy.

Let’s dive into the history of the original pale golden lager, the Pilsner.

We start in the early 1800s in Bohemia, what is now modern-day Czechia. Due to the poor quality of the ale and it eventually would spoil from it just sitting around. This was further exacerbated by the cheaper, cleaner lagerbier that was being imported from neighboring areas. The native ale was so awful that in 1838 barrels were ordered to be dumped in the streets of Pilsen.

After some protests by the locals, a new brewery was commissioned and built complete with a malthouse. The new brewery also included the revolutionary way of kilning malt that was patented by Daniel Wheeler in England in 1818. Finally, Bavarian brewer, Joseph Groll, was hired to make things right. He brewed a batch of beer on Oct. 5 and released it on Nov. 11, 1842, to the residents of Pilsen. The Pilsner was born!

Note: The Czech Premium Pale Lager, as appropriately named in the Beer Judge Certification Program (BJCP) guidelines, is more commonly referred to as Czech or Bohemian Pilsner. The preface Czech or Bohemian to the Pilsner from Czechia are interchangeable and is how this particular style will be referred as from here on out.

Pilsen is notorious for its soft water and it was a major contributing factor to the delicate flavors that resulted in the finished beer. Floor malting the barley created a unique constancy of the germinating grain that contributes to the dusty, bready flavor. The use of the new malt kilning technologies implemented was also a contributing aspect creating some very pale malt. Native Saaz hops imparted the unmistakable purfumy and spicy aroma notes. The result was a golden beer with soft, well-rounded bitterness, bready maltiness, and a clean and refreshing finish. A light butter note imparted by the compound diacetyl, which is usually an off-flavor, is not looked at negatively for the Czech Pilsners so long as it’s not overwhelming. It is not by all means required, however.

Quantitative properties (from BJCP) for the Premium versions of the Czech Pilsner are ABV: 4.2 – 5.8%, IBUs: 30 – 45, and SRM: 3.5 – 6. Standard versions have a bit lower properties such as ABV: 3.0 – 4.1%.

Bright Heights German Pilsner During Sunset
Radiant Beer Co., Anaheim, CA.

Germany soon began to create their versions of the pale lager. Beginning in about the 1870’s German breweries were starting to explore how to make Pilsner suit their water profiles. Specifically, in 1872, the Radeberger Brewery lays claim to the original in Germany. The German Pilsner, sometimes spelled Pilsener, but usually more simply as Pils, has two unofficial subcategories: Northern and Southern German Pils. The Northern style is drier, more bitter, and paler than the Southern versions. This is historically due to the higher levels of sulfates in the water. The Southern versions have a more pronounced hop aroma by contrast. Both are snappy and crispy, aided by the lightly killed Pilsner malt that gives a mellow cereal grain backbone for the floral, minty, and tea-like hops to take center stage.

Quantitative properties (from BJCP) for the German Pils are ABV: 4.4 – 5.2%, IBUs: 22 – 40, and SRM: 2 – 5.

A Kellerbier or Keller Pils is a kind of substyle found in the Franconian region of Bavaria. This is an unfiltered Pils and has a bit more complex than the customary crisp nature of a proper Pils. You may find these labeled as Ungespundet, and/or Naturtrüb, or Zwickel if not as Kellerbier. Usually the same quantitative properties as a German Pils.

Brewers Jon and Jerrod Admiring Dr. Filsner Pre-Prohibition Pilsner
Bearded Tang, Stanton, CA.

Migration of the lager-brewing tradition followed German immigrants wherever they went. The American Pilsner, pale lagers produced pre-prohibition (the style usually labeled as Pre-Prohibition Pilsner/Lager), were similar to their modern-day evolution; These are the forebears to the mass-market American Pale Lagers. Pre-Prohibition Pilsners were hopped with American hops native to the area such as Cluster and contained the addition of rice and/or corn sugar (dextrose) to contrast the use of higher-protein six-row barley that was in abundance in the US. Eventually, industrialization, Prohibition, and World Wars contributed to the more muted versions we see advertised during sporting events. In recent years, commercial examples of the American Pilsner or Pre-Prohibition Pilsner/Lager have become more available. The profile here is a blend of the old-world and their new-world evolution. The malt bed is neutral with a corn-like sweetness if present just as the American Pale Lager providing no covers for the earthy hops to lay on.

Italian Pilsners are quite comparable to the German-style but are dry-hopped. We can track the birth of the Italian-style Pils to a single brewery and beer that was produced more than 15 years ago, Birrifico Italiano’s Tipopils. Brewed in the German Pils tradition, which is not surprising since Birrifico Italiano is in Limido Comasco, Northern Italy with only Switzerland separating it from southern Germany. The choice of hops is very important as they need to impart the appropriate Noble Hop characters (spicy, minty, perfumy, and pleasant). Although, some American examples may use some citrusy hop varieties, so long as the fruit notes are not overpowering. More common in local examples are newer German hop varieties such as German Amarillo, Mandarina Bavaria, Polaris, Hallertau Blanc, and Hüll Melon.

As with Kellerbier, usually the same quantitative properties as a German Pils.

Stereo Pilsner, A Czech Pilsner
Stereo Brewing, Placentia, CA.

Italian Pilsner can be a versatile gateway beer for beer drinkers looking to explore new styles but who might need to ease into them. The hazy/juicy beer drinker might not gravitate to the brightness of a Munich Helles lager, but the Italian Pilsner retains the hop presence he or she may be used to, yet still enjoy the uplifting brilliance of the lager. Likewise, a light lager drinker may want to explore a hop-forward beer but has been put off by the intense bitterness of an IPA. An Italian Pilsner can serve as the missing link for that person.

Pouring a Pilsner appropriately is also something to consider. The “Slow Pour,” again more accurately aided by the side-pull Czech faucets but not required, is when the beer is poured into the glass right down the middle allowing it to foam up most of the way up the glass then the massive head is allowed to dissipate. The process is repeated two or three more times until one has a full glass of Pils with a pillowy cloud floating on top. The result is the absence of a substantial amount of dissolved Co2 that lends a softer texture and less filling Pils. This can be done with both Czech and German Pils.

Multiple Side-Pull Faucets
Brewery X, Anaheim, CA.

The Czech beer culture has a few different types of pours. This is aided by the faucet that has a side-pull handle that has amazing flow control. Also, these faucets are meant to be placed into the glass and into the beer, which goes against all modern wisdom on draught system cleanliness. There are others, but the most common types of pours are the Hladinka, Šnyt (pronounced “shnit”), and Mlíko. Hladinka is a traditional pour of two-thirds beer and a thick cap of foam. The faucet aids here by creating the head then pouring clear beer underneath it. Šnyt is half and half which is self-explanatory. The last and most interesting pour is Mlíko which is just about all soft and milky foam! A nice final pour after a night of Pilsner session drinking.

Slow-Pour Pilsner, A German Style Pils
Bierstadt Lagerhaus, Denver, CO.

Pilsner is a seamless partner with food, especially spicy Mexican dishes with its sharp bitterness and cutting carbonation. Spicy hop aromatics harmonize with ingredients like onion and cilantro. Delicate shellfish will not be overpowered by a true Pilsner. The burst of bitterness isn’t IPA levels, so the gentle flavors of lobster or crab will rush in as soon it passes. Buffalo Wings? Pilsner can help put out the fire. Salty dishes will be tamed by the bitter hop notes. Also, indulge yourself and serve a genuine Pilsner in flutes as an aperitif before dinner. A bit of bitterness tends to wake up the palate and encourage appetite. Plus, it looks cool and it makes Champagne jealous.

Craft/Independent commercial examples are everywhere. Local breweries are sure to have some available at some point, and most likely sooner rather than later. Locally here in Orange County (OC) frequent and occasional producers of Pilsner include GameCraft, Bearded Tang, Stereo, Brewery X, The Bruery, Green Cheek, Station Craft, Radiant, Flashpoint, Asylum, and so many more of our 60 breweries. It may turn into an entire list of OC breweries by pandemic’s end. More widely available commercial examples include Trumer, Bitburger, Radeberger, Paulaner Pilsner, Veltins, Czechvar, Pilsner Urquell, STS, and many more.

Lagers, led by the Pilsner, might be just what we need once we safely begin to finally congregate at our favorite watering holes at the rates we used to before the pandemic. Relatively low ABV and lively on the palate, yet not overpowering whatsoever will encourage session drinking with good company. It is unfortunate considering the circumstances, but after years of speculating and failed predictions, the pleasant Pilsner might, at last, be the next beer trend.

Prost! / Na zdraví!!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

* Portions of this essay have been obtained, combined, added to, and/or modified from my previous publications on the subject for Orange Coast Magazine. *

Hop Creep: The Ghost of Brewing's Past

Ever had a wonderful, hop-forward beer at a brewery only to wonder why it tastes a bit dry, or over-carbonated, or perhaps developed some unpleasant Diacetyl in the can or bottle you brought home? You just had it a few days ago from the source, yet now there’s something not right about it. What’s scary is a can or bottle becoming over-carbonated and leaving you with a puddle to mop up when it once had appropriate levels of CO2. Almost as if these changes seemingly crept up on the beer. Well, they kind of did.

The Past

There’s a phenomenon in the brewing industry that was seemingly forgotten or at least put on the sidelines for over 100 years. Dry Hop Creep (Hop Creep for short) is very interesting and is important for brewers to understand, especially if they want to make exceptional IPAs. First mentioned in an article in The Brewers Guardian in 1893 by Horace T. Brown and G. Harris Morris, it was known that adding hops to beer at the end or near the end of fermentation helped dry out, or “freshen” the beer by fermenting some leftover carbohydrates the initial fermentation may have left behind. The article makes a few logical hypotheses on what causes refermentation after Dry Hopping.

Let’s first address what dry hopping is for those who may now be aware. Dry hopping is the addition of dried hops into the fermenter either at the tail end of fermentation or when it has been completed. Hops contain, among other things, acids & oils that are essential to the finished beer’s flavor. The acids require to be boiled to impart their bitterness to balance out the beer’s natural sweetness. The oils, by contrast, contribute much of the hop flavor (piny, herbal, and/or fruity aromas) and are volatile so they benefit from late additions in the boil or after fermentation. Dry hopping contributes to the iconic flavors and aromas we associate with the modern IPA (clear or otherwise).

For Brown and Morris, the question they had wasn’t about flavor, it was about dryness. They knew adding hops at the end of fermentation would induce a secondary fermentation, but they didn’t know why. They hypothesized that within hops there must be either 1) Fermentable sugars, 2) wild yeast or bacteria, or 3) enzymes. After data collection from experimentation, the evidence suggested to Brown and Morris the presence of a diastase, enzymes, in this case, are indeed found in hops.

Quick aside: The term Dry Hop comes from this drying out of the beer (or freshening), not from adding dried hops to the fermented beer, as is most often used as the reason for the term. However, the modern-day use of the term renders both explanations acceptable.

What does this all mean? Put on your beer goggles, er, I mean, put your glasses on and grab an IPA, because this is going to get frothy and nerdy. Let’s talk about some beer science!

The Nerdy Talk

With current research, we now are aware of four enzymes found in hops: Alpha (α) Amylase, Bata (β) Amylase, Limit Dextrinase, and Amyloglucosidase. (It must be noted that the direct presence of Amyloglucosidase hasn’t been detected, but the activity is similar to its end product.) Some of these are found in malted barley, as well. Enzymes by themselves do not ferment beer. That’s the yeast’s job. What the enzymes do, in this case, is break down complex carbohydrates into simple sugars.

In brewing, enzymes are proteins that catalyze to accelerate a biological chemical reaction.
Enzymes are found naturally in malted barley and are heat-activated during the mash (steeped in hot water). Of the many enzymes found in malted barley, α-Amylase, and β-Amylase are the ones that brewers rely on to extract carbohydrates. This is done by the enzymes breaking down complex carbohydrates, or starches, into simpler sugars. Starch conversion happens around 131°F to about 162°F, with α-Amylase most active between about 154 – 162°F with some activity noticed as low as 149°F, while β-Amylase is most active around 140 - 149°F. Limit Dextrinase, an enzyme found in raw barley, but is almost completely denatured by the malting process, and Amyloglucosidase, the enzyme used in Brut IPA’s, do the same but more methodically. Both have been known to be active to around 140°F and have shown signs of movement at much lower temperatures. It should be noted that enzyme activity seen at very low temperatures is minimal, and very little data is out there, but the evidence is there nonetheless. The pH of the mash plays a part in the big picture with the optimum for the enzymes being between about 4 and 5. As luck would have it, that’s the pH of a typical IPA.

Long-chain carbohydrates from malted barley are made up of Glucose (a monosaccharide when isolated by itself) molecules linked together by various linkages. Two linked Glucose molecules form the disaccharide Maltose. The trisaccharide Maltotriose has three Glucose molecules. Longer chains of glucose form the polysaccharide called Amylose (image above*). These are all linked together by an α(1-4) bond.

Amylopectin (image above*) contains multiple branches of Amylose chains bonded by an α(1-6) linkage that flare out to create a large complex carbohydrate. With that in mind, α-Amylase catalyzes the α(1-4) bonds seemingly at random to release Maltose while β-Amylase is more methodical at snipping away at the same type of linkages releasing even more Maltose. As proficient as they are, α and β-Amylase, still can’t break down the complex carbohydrates completely and they leave behind some Dextrins, or unfermentable sugars, particularly those with an α(1-6) linkage. Limit Dextrinase and Amyloglucosidase can snap the α(1-6) bonds.

Is the issue becoming a bit more apparent now?

The Creep

If a packaged beer that has been highly dry-hopped and those hops contained large amounts of diastase, we could have a major problem. A beer stored cold could still show some Hop Creep by the enzymatic activity producing some extra sugars. It won’t ferment out since any yeast that may be present is inactive and will remain in the finished beer. There could be some refermentation happening in the can or bottle if it is not stored cold and there is some yeast present. Any residual sugars could be broken down and the remaining yeast could begin to ferment it. This would be nice if it was meant to be a bottle-conditioned beer. If it wasn’t, however, there could be additional ethanol production that might knock the beer out of compliance.

Should any refermentation occur in the packed product, an increase in CO2 levels will be noticeable because the gas can not escape and will be reabsorbed into the beer. It could create some geysers when opened for a cool show and a bit of a mess if CO2 levels reach excessive amounts. It was thought that Hop Creep was responsible for some beer grenades, but the wild yeast Saccharomyces Cerevisiae var. Diastaticus is the more likely culprit. That's not to say that Hop Creep alone can't cause some exploding cans and bottles. Also, fermentation by-products end up in the packaged product that will be impossible to get out of the beer. In particular...

Diacetyl = Butter. Movie Theater Popcorn in beer? No Thanks.
Photo by Jessica Rice McNew of Beer and Baking

...Diacetyl, the dreaded D-word in brewing. This compound causes beer off-flavors best described as butter, movie theater popcorn, or butterscotch candy. Diacetyl is produced by yeast during the initial stages of fermentation. While the yeast cell creates the amino acid Valine, this part of its metabolism cycle produces the compound α-Acetolactate along this pathway. A non-enzymatic oxidative decarboxylation of α-Acetolactate outside the yeast cell converts it to 2,3-Butanedione, the compound we know as Diacetyl. As fermentation wraps up, most of the Diacetyl is reabsorbed into the yeast cell. Through some more enzymatic activity, Diacetyl is converted to 2,3-Butanediol, which has a much higher threshold for us humans so we can't taste it. Brewers refer to this as the “Diacetyl Rest” and the reduction is done in the fermenter, usually by letting the temperature rise slightly.

This poses a predicament when an IPA leaves the brewery without any Diacetyl notes and reputable reviewers or customers keep insisting the packed product tasted like butter. Once any Hop Creep happens and there is any viable yeast left in the beer, the yeast will consume the sugars but will not be active enough and/or warm enough for a proper Diacetyl Rest. The once great-tasting IPA is now a butter bomb.

Acetaldehyde will also be produced along. If the yeast is healthy, fermentation will run its course as best it can creating Ethanol from Acetaldehyde. Although it may not be a big jump, it may be enough to place a beer out of spec.

The Future

Dry Hop Creep isn’t a universal problem, however. Recent evidence suggests it may be dependent on many factors. Research shows that hop varietals differ in diastatic power. For example, the preliminary findings indicate Citra and Noble Hops may have very little enzymatic power present while Cascade and Centennial have shown a noticeable amount. A cultivar is not the only factor to consider; year, yield, farm location (terroir), and harvesting process may also be a factor.

It turns out one of the most interesting areas for future study could be the drying process after hops are cultivated. A common practice is to have hops dried from 80%(+/-) moisture down to around 8 to 10% moisture and pelletized at a much lower temperature as opposed to the higher heat in years past. The temperature for drying high alpha acid fresh wet hops off the bine is anywhere from 130°F to 140°F, with some farms as high as 145°F.

The Hop Quality Group conducted research and found that lower-temperature kilning preserved delicate thiols and oils. Aroma hops, those typically used in Dry Hopping, were already dried at lower temperatures. Today, it is getting down to only about 100°F or even lower. It is thought lower temperature drying improves the aromatic properties of the hops.

This, unwillingly, may have left much of the enzymes intact since the heat does not reach high enough to denature them. More research needs to be done on this aspect, but the correlation between when this process in hop processing and Hop Creep's jump-scare into the modern-day beer scene can't be ignored.

Fresh Hops on a Bine

Playing "Creep" Away

It’s not all doom and gloom. There are plenty of ways to avoid any possible Hop Creep in one's brewery. Aside from the obvious solution of adding less or no Dry Hop to your IPA (not going to happen!), here are a few things to consider along with their possible drawbacks.

1) Sterile Filter, Centrifuge, and/or Coarse Filter

A good sterile filter or centrifuge removes any possible refermentation that could cause access carbonation and/or Diacetyl by removing the yeast, but it will not prevent any added breakdown of sugars by the enzymes that could end up adding a sweeter taste as time passes. A coarse filter can remove any vegetal matter that contains the enzymes to prevent any further breakdown of sugars.

2) Pasteurise the Beer Before Packaging

This may be an off-putting option for many brewers, and not just because of the added expense of new equipment. Although pasteurizing will kill off any yeast present and denature the enzymes, the high heat will alter the intended flavor of a highly hopped beer.

3) Dry Hop at the Tail End of Fermentation

By Dry Hopping when primary fermentation is close to wrapping up or during the Diacetyl Rest, any added enzymatic activity can occur when there is yeast present to consume any additional fermentable sugar. This may add some extra attenuation (percentage of extract available consumed by yeast) to the end product, but that can be accounted for with some experience. Embrace the creep.

4) Invest in a Dissolved Oxygen Meter

As noted above, α-Acetolactate requires oxygen to decarboxylate into Diacetyl. Although dissolved oxygen is required for proper yeast metabolism in its early stages, any dissolved oxygen left over can aid in the creation of the unwanted buttery compound.

5) ALDC (Alpha Acetolactate Decarboxylase)

ALDC is an added enzyme brewers can use to control Diacetyl production. It catches the α-Acetolactate and turns it directly into Acetoin, bypassing the Diacetyl stage in the cycle. Although this does not deal with any of the hop enzymatic activity, it can be a solution to prevent movie theater popcorn aromas in the finished beer. This only helps with Diacetyl and does not fix Hop Creep.

This subject has become a recent topic of great interest to brewing chemists and brewers of all experience levels. An idea proposed over a century ago is finally, with the great minds applying modern technology and chemistry knowledge, at a point where we can begin to understand what is happening at a molecular level. As more data is collected by research and experimentation, the knowledge surrounding Dry Hop Creep will only continue to increase. For now, there is enough information for the talented IPA producers to embrace “the freshening power of the hop” to keep crafting quality highly hopped beers. Nothing creepy about that.

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®

References/Resources:

Brown, H. T., & Morris, G. Ha. (1893). On Certain Functions of Hops Used In The Dry-Hopping Of Beers. The Brewer’s Guardian. (Google Books)

Janicki, J., Kotasthane, W. V., Parker, A., & Walker, T. K. (1941). The Diastatic Activity of Hops, Together With a Note on Maltase in Hops. Institute of Brewing Research Scheme. (Online Library)

Hieronymus, S. (2012). For the Love of Hops: The Practical Guide to Aroma, Bitterness and the Culture of Hops. Brewers Publications (Brewers Association).

Kirkendall, J. A., Mitchell, C. A., & Chadwick, L. R. (2018). The Freshening Power of Centennial Hops. Journal of the American Society of Brewing Chemists, 76(3)

Kirkpatrick, K., & Shellhammer, T. (2018). A Cultivar-Based Screening of Hops for Dextrin Degrading Enzymatic Potential. Journal of the American Society of Brewing Chemists. 76(4)

Kirkpatrick, K., & Shellhammer, T. (2018). Evidence of Dextrin Hydrolyzing Enzymes in Cascade Hops (Humulus Lupulus). Journal of Agriculture and Food Chemistry, 66

Viva. (Accessed 2020). 10 Difference Between Amylose And Amylopectin (With Pictures & Structure). Viva Differences. (*Image Source).

https://vivadifferences.com/difference-between-amylose-and-amylopectin/

Hop Creep Technical Brief 

https://cdn.brewersassociation.org/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Hop-Creep-%E2%80%93-Technical-Brief.pdf

Shellhammer, T. (2019). Hop Creep Derived Enzymes and Hop Creep. Master Brewers Association of the Americas - Presentation Slides.
https://www.mbaa.com/meetings/districtpresentations/DistrictPresentations/SHELLHAMMER,%20Hop-derived%20enzymes%20and%20hop%20creep.pdf

Hieronymus, S. (2020).Brewing with Hops: Don’t Be Creeped Out. Craft Beer and Brewing.

https://beerandbrewing.com/brewing-with-hops-dont-be-creeped-out/

Henderson, S. (2018). How “Dry Hop Creep” Causes Diacetyl In Beer and How Brewers Can Minimise The Risk. Rockstar Brewer

https://rockstarbrewer.com/how-dry-hop-creep-causes-diacetyl-in-beer-and-how-brewers-can-minimise-the-risk/#:~:text=%E2%80%9CDry%20Hop%20Creep%E2%80%9D%20is%20a,hopped%20can%20occur%20in%20package.&text=That%20hops%20contain%20a%20%E2%80%9Cdiastase,fermentable%20sugars%20into%20fermentable%20sugars.

Kirkpatrick, K. (2019). An Attempt at Understanding Hop Enzymes and Their Action on Dry-Hopped Beers, Q&A PDF. American Society of Brewing Chemists.

https://www.asbcnet.org/lab/webinars/webinars/Documents/20190418_QandA_HopEnzymesWebinar.pdf

White Labs, (Accessed 2020). Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Var. Diastaticus.
https://www.whitelabs.com/diastaticus

Rockstar Brewer Youtube Channel. (2019). How Dry Hop Creep Causes Diacetyl in Beer Plus 7 Ways You Can Manage it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uVFPnD5saoE

Master Brewers Podcast - Youtube Channel. (2018). 098: Dry Hop Creep
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mNcrJexo1pI&t=22s

Master Brewers Podcast - Youtube Channel. (2019). 127: Dry Hop Creep Continued - Does Variety Matter? (Live Episode).
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Photos by me unless noted otherwise.

It’s Time to Shine! Radiant Beer Co. Open to the Public

Blank Slate, Parallel Path, and Becoming More Real by Radiant Beer Co.

*Updated February 19th, 2021*

Where one giant that was too ambitious to succeed was slain, another with the right vigor and comprehension has resurrected in its place. Housed where Towne Park used to be, Radiant Beer Co. is Anaheim’s newest brewery to add to OC’s impressive line-up of amazing beer producers. Radiant is shining brightly ever since their initial releases of Blank Slate (Witbier), Parallel Path (West Coast IPA), and Becoming More Real (Hazy IPA).

Released as a sneak-peak back in early January, these first three Radiant offerings were an appropriate display of the skills, experience, and potential of this tight-knit award-winning team. Lead by Managing Partner Jonas Nemura, Director of Brewing Andrew Bell, and Director of Marketing Cambria Griffith, this team gained much clout during their careers at The Bruery.

Left to Right: Andrew Bell, Jonas Nemura, and Cambria Griffith
Photo by Radiant Beer Co.

Since then, the patio area has been opened up while more improvements and renovations continue indoors. Soon, Radiant's tasting room will have a more colorful decor, murals, and, of course, beers for us to enjoy. Furthermore, a food concept will be added (flatbreads are a big possibility, but my money is on tacos!) along with activities, when it is safe to do so, such as creating your own tie-dye shirt.

The brewery itself keeps shifting in the right direction, too. Unusable tanks, piping, and plumbing accessories have been removed and replaced where applicable, and a new RO Water System. Furthermore, the inherited canning line will be refurbished for future use. A barrel program is already underway with some impressive finds to age some beer in. Names like Buffalo Trace, Elijah Craig, and Wild Turkey adorn the first barrels acquired by Bell and the team.

But, how are the suds? Well, a small review of the original three beers plus a current favorite are below.

Blank Slate

Witbiers can be romanticized as the feeling of a summer evening breeze on the beach in beer form. This Witbier embodies that sentiment as it pours out a veiled straw-colored with a pillow of foam just as the waves leave behind. Aromas of white tea leaves, lime zest, and an entire spice cabinet. Flavors are soft, yet present, with notes of grain, tea, orange, lime, sage, mint, and a faint acidity note that lends to the refreshingly dry finish. Wonderful stuff!! This will be one of those on regular rotation it seems. Can’t wait to pair this with a goat cheese omelet.

Becoming More Real

I’m not a hazy guy. If you are even remotely close to knowing anything about me, that would be one of the first things that I’ll unapologetically admit. With that said, my honest opinion here is…. Wow! This is some good stuff! These are the hazy’s, when I drink, I understand why a lot of beer drinkers admire them. Pours out a foggy (duh!) orange that looks like a Weissbier at first glance with a giant white cloud on top. Aromas of peaches and cream, coconut, and white strawberry with the taste being much the same. The texture is creamy, and bitterness is low but present in the finish. Pair this with your favorite salty ramen or spicy Indian curry dishes.

Parallel Path

Put another tick mark on great IPA’s out of Orange County. Golden pale-colored with a lightly off-white cap. On the nose, oh, the nose…. Various berries, cucumbers, and oranges spritzed with lime juice, and a hint of dried chives. The palate radiates (pun intended!) with blueberries, orange peels, limes, underripe pineapple, and a bit of that “dank” we all have come to love (or accept). The mouthfeel is smooth and a snappy bitter finish. Do you like firey Thai dishes such as Pad Kee Mao? Pair them with Parallel Path.

Inherent Good

Lager beers are some of my favorite styles, and I am quite critical of them. My criticism of this beer is... Nothing! We are spoiled in OC to have such wonderful Lager producers and we have yet another to add to our already impressive list. A dry-hopped version of their Recommission Lager generously dosed with Saphir hops. Crisp and refreshing, as any clean traditional Pale Lager should and with flavors of herbal tea, lemongrass, green spices, and fresh hay beam out of the glass. A pint is not enough! A mug is a must for this one.

Bell on the Brew-Deck of the Impressive Brewhouse
Photo by Radiant Beer Co.

This is a good, strong showing out of the gate for Radiant. I trust this is only a sign of what's to come. Do any of the three beers seem like they would be up your alley? I encourage you to give them a try. I thoroughly enjoyed each one of them. I can’t wait to see the completed transformation and enjoy a beer on-premise. See you there!

Inherent Good Dry-Hopped Lager

Public sales began on Wednesday, January 13th, 2021. It was symbolically considered their "opening day" for pick-up and delivery until regulations/recommendations allow for safe on-premise enjoyment. As of now, the patio is open for on-site consumption, too.

Radiant Beer Co. is located at 1566 W. Lincoln Ave, Anaheim, CA.

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Stay safe, wear your face-covering, and respect your fellow humans.

Cheers!

Gilbert “Charlie” Perez, Advanced Cicerone®